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The Bay Area Travel Guide: Explore San Francisco, Oakland and San Jose – Travel Noire

There’s a large diaspora of cultures, countries and cuisines represented across The Bay Area. The region has many Black-owned businesses , restaurants and places to stay along the coast.

The diverse and thriving communities is the quality that makes the Bay Area truly special. Each community brings its own rich history and cultural fusion to the iconic Northern California region. Napa Valley is known for picturesque vineyards and wineries, making it the perfect escape from normal life. From soul food to jazz clubs, the Pacific Coast is brimming with Black history that has shaped its culture and an abundance of coastal charm.

The Bay Area, California , Quick Travel Facts

• Best time to travel: March to May and September to November
• Time zone: Pacific Standard Time (PST)
• Noteworthy: Black Joy Parade (February), Bay To Breakers 12K (May),  San Francisco Pride Parade (June), Outside Lands Music Festival (August), Oakland Black Cowboy Parade (October)
• Vacation type: Beach Getaway, Food & Wine Tours, Outdoor Adventure, Friends Trip, Coastal Trip

Play: Things to Do in The Bay Area

Marcus books.

Founded in 1960, Marcus Books is the oldest Black-owned independent bookstore in the country. This cultural landmark has served as a hub for the Black community in the Bay Area. The store offers an extensive collection of books, literature and art by Black authors and artists.

The store also hosts events and discussions that highlight Black culture and history, while its leaders fiercely advocate for the Black community. Any traveler who is a book lover, a history buff or simply looking to connect to the local Black community in Oakland, this is the perfect place to start. Marcus Bookstore is a must-visit destination that will leave everyone feeling encouraged, empowered and inspired.

Black Food Tour — Downtown Oakland

The Black Food Tour in Downtown Oakland showcases the vibrancy of Oakland’s Black-owned restaurants, culture and cuisine. Led by knowledgeable natives, visitors will try up to five local restaurants. Each location offers up their own delicious culinary experience.

As travelers indulge in amazing globally-inspired food, the tour guides will share the unique landscape, art, culture and history of the area.

San Francisco Bay Sunset Catamaran Cruise

The San Francisco Sunset Catamaran Cruise is worth every moment because of the breathtaking views of the Pacific Coast. For an hour and a half, travelers will sail past Alcatraz Island and under the iconic Golden Gate Bridge. The calming sail will be met with the picturesque scenery of the stunning San Francisco skyline.

Guests can take in the 360-degree views from the protected cabin or on the deck with their complimentary drink of choice. This excursion allows travelers to skip the overcrowded tourist spots and catch an unforgettable sunset.

Museum of the African Diaspora (MoAD)

The Museum of the African Diaspora (MoAD) is a contemporary art museum that celebrates the global Black community. Located in San Francisco, MoAD visitors will see incredible artifacts and engage in challenging conversations about the history and impact of the African diaspora. A visit to MoAD is a great way to support an important Black cultural institution, and every second Saturday is Community Free Day. Guests can enjoy free admission to all MoAD exhibits.

Napa and Sonoma Wine Country Full-Day Tour 

This beautiful Napa and Sonoma Wine Country Full-Day Tour departs from and returns to Union Square in San Francisco. Visitors are able to sit back and relax in an air-conditioned coach bus with reclining seats. The driver will takes you to three wineries throughout the day.

Travelers will not only get to taste some of the country’s most recognized wines, but also go behind the scenes at local wineries and learn about winemaking firsthand. All wine-tasting fees are included in the tour price, which allows everyone to sip and savor worry-free.

Wine tasting enthusiasts have the opportunity to shop or grab some lunch at Sonoma Square Plaza or Yountville at their own expense.

Gourmet: Best Black-Owned Restaurants in The Bay Area

Alamar kitchen & bar .

View this post on Instagram A post shared by alaMar Kitchen (@alamaroakland)

AlaMar Kitchen & Bar is a Black-owned and Michelin-recommended restaurant in Oakland led by Executive Chef and Owner Nelson German. The Caribbean-inspired drinks and Cajun-influenced menu are bursting with flavor from the starters to the desserts.

The menu items include starters, like plantain tostadas topped with braised oxtail, main entrees like whole Dungeness crab boil, and desserts, like maple sweet potato cheesecake topped with candied pineapple and whipped cream. They also offer Happy Hour menu specials.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Sobre Mesa Cocktail Lounge (@sobremesaoak)

Sobre Mesa is the sister cocktail lounge of AlaMar located in Oakland. This Afro-Latino kitchen and lounge is where great conversation connects people through cultural food, drinks and music.

The relaxed, yet refined atmosphere is inspired by Owner and Chef Nelson German’s Dominican roots and African ancestry. The tapas menu includes foods inspired by African and Caribbean diasporas, like roasted bone marrow, picadillo empanadas, lobster creole and roasted stuffed ripe plantains. The craft cocktails are made with premium small-batch spirits and artisanal aromatics from Cuba, Puerto Rico, Trinidad, New Orleans, Haiti and the Dominican Republic. 

Mela Bistro 

View this post on Instagram A post shared by MELA Bistro oakland (@melabistrooakland)

Mela Bistro is an Ethiopian restaurant in Oakland with a relaxing atmosphere combining natural elements and modern design. Executive Chef Adiam Tsegaye crafted a bold and mouthwatering menu that highlights local and seasonal ingredients. Ethiopian recipes like Sambusa, Asa Kitfo and Misir Wat transport the taste buds to East Africa.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by SF Foodie (@jray_eats)

ZZoul Cafe is one of the only authentic Sudanese restaurants in San Francisco. The husband-and-wife duo Aref and Dalia Elgaali moved to the States in 2016 from Sudan and wanted to bring the culture and taste of their homeland to the Bay Area.

The menu features recreations of generational family recipes like fatayer, Sudanese lentil soup and roasted lamb shank. There are also traditional desserts, like Basbosa and Roz Biliban.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Kowbird (@kowbird)

Founder and chef Matt Horn creates soul food with culture and comfort in mind. Kowbird is a family-owned restaurant in Oakland that delivers mouth-watering crispy chicken plates and sandwich recipes.

The dessert menu also is delicious. It features banana pudding, candy apples and homemade seasonal pies available on rotation.

Stay: Best Places to Stay In The Bay Area

Spacious, sunny, serene upstairs apartment.

This Spacious, Sunny, Serene Upstairs Apartment is a Black woman-owned Airbnb in Oakland that’s perfect for extended stay trips.

Travelers can enjoy roomy bedrooms and plenty of storage space. There’s also a bonus office space for those who need to get some remote work done during travel. The fully equipped kitchen has everything any guest could possibly need. It is equipped with a gas stove, multiple appliances and a dishwasher.

Travelers also can unwind with in the living room by watching the 44-inch flat-screen television or looking out at the garden, city skyline and a stunning view of the Oakland hills.

The Tiny Heauxtel

The Tiny Heauxtel located in Oakland is a cozy tiny home located in a vibrant and friendly predominately Spanish-speaking community. Travelers will be able to immerse themselves in the local culture and taste amazing street food.

It is packed with full amenities and two Smart TVs with free Netflix access. Guests can also enjoy a calm morning before the next excursion with a nice cup of coffee or tea. There is a Keurig with assorted flavored pods or a hot water kettle for tea.

Modern Living at Tech-Forward Townhouse

The Modern Living at Tech-Forward Townhouse is located in the vibrant West Oakland area across the bridge from San Francisco and near the Emeryville shopping district. This sleek and stylish smart townhome offers modern amenities including solar electricity, a smart lock and a Nest thermostat.

The comfort and convenience of the fully equipped kitchen and the attached garage with a remote is perfect for a solo or group stay. The area also offers easy access to abundant public transit connections, including BART to Caltrain, cable cars and local bus routes.

Get Away: Getting To and Around The Bay Area

The Bay Area has three airports: San Francisco International Airport (SFO), Oakland International Airport (OAK) and San Jose International Airport (SJC). Each airport can work into your itinerary, depending on where you are staying in The Bay Area.

The San Francisco International Airport is the largest of the three airports.  

There is more flexibility when traveling by car because the Bay Area has a lot of activities, hotels and restaurants that are spaced out. Travelers also don’t want to miss the many scenic routes and remote beaches in the area. There are rental cars available near the airports.

Travelers should make sure to plan the route and give themselves more time because the Bay Area has heavy rush hour traffic on weekdays. Summer is especially busy with a high increase of visitors along the coast.

Public Transit

The Bay Area has three main public transit options. The Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART) is a fast and efficient transit system meant for long distances. It runs underground along San Francisco and Oakland, and above ground in other areas. It connects to other transit systems, like the San Francisco Municipal Transportation Agency (Muni), which is San Francisco’s most comprehensive public transit system. The historic cable cars are also a popular tourist attraction. The Golden Gate Transit serves the North Bay area. Its buses run across the Golden Gate Bridge, and connect to San Francisco and the Golden Gate Ferry.

Explore The Bay Area On Foot

The Bay Area has so many different neighborhoods to explore with parks, scenic vistas and interesting attractions complementing its laid-back charm.

There are various terrains, so plan comfortable and appropriate footwear for the trip. There are plenty of opportunities for outdoor recreation. Some of the outdoor opportunities include Muir Woods National Monument and Big Basin Redwoods State Park. There is also iconic landmarks like the Golden Gate Bridge for sightseeing experiences.

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2 Days in San Francisco – The Ideal Itinerary for First Timers From a Local (2024)

Wondering how to get the most of your 2 days in San Francisco?

As a local, I obviously love to share beautiful San Francisco with all my out of town visitors, so I’ve perfected some great itineraries for you. Cue music “Are you going to San Francisco, Be sure to wear flowers in your hair.”

When I arrived here, in the last century, I thought I had landed in one of the most beautiful cities in the world. And I still believe that is true. A visit to the gem of northern California is like stepping into a colorful world that blends old with new, ocean with hills, and sun with fog. There is so much to see and experience here, your 2 day visit will leave you excited for a return trip.

Take these itineraries and mix and match anyway you like. I have tried to give you a flow that makes sense in terms of navigating the city. Also check out my 1 day in San Francisco and 3 days in San Francisco, because those itineraries also offer great choices.

My goal is to give you all the info you need, so you can just enjoy and soak up all the fun!

Quick & Easy Links

🌍 Flights & Hotels: I recommend Expedia 🏠 Vacation rentals: I recommend VRBO 🚘 Car Rental: I recommend Hertz 🌐 Tours: I recommend Viator 🛍 Gear: Check out my Travel Stuff 📷 Create Your Travel Memory Books with MILK

My notes to all San Francisco visitors:

1. Public Transportation in this city is not super intuitive or convenient to and from some tourist locations. So, I’m recommending a combination of walking and ride shares. While ride shares may cost you more, they will save you time, stress, and are more convenient. 

If you do choose to use public transport, then follow the Getting Around section below for info.

And if you choose to drive, then just be prepared for serious hills and some parking challenges!

2. Buy performance tix before you go. Research which Broadway show, comedy show, or San Francisco Symphony, Ballet, Opera, or Jazz performance you want to see so you can reserve seats online in advance. (I use the Today Tix App.)

Click the Map for 2 Day San Francisco Itinerary Locations

Itinerary for 2 Days in San Francisco

Day one of 2 days in san francisco:.

• Ocean Beach
• Beach Chalet 
• Cliff House
• Sutro Baths
• Golden Gate Park 
• Jap Tea Garden 
• Haight Ashbury
• Alamo Square
• Mission Murals
• Dinner in Mission
• Comedy/Symphony/Ballet/Jazz 

Get your walking shoes on and   start early!   

Ocean Beach – Take an early walk on the beach. This shore of the Pacific Ocean is part of the National Park Service. Ocean Beach is a 3.5 mile city beach. The water is chilly, but the views are great. Look for early morning surfers. I love this San Francisco beach , rain or shine!

Breakfast at Beach Chalet – 1000 Great Highway – Opens at 10AM Cross the Great Highway to the Beach Chalet. The views of the ocean are magnificent, The Beach Chalet is a 1925 historic landmark. It’s a Spanish revival restaurant that was once an Army headquarters. You’ll see the first floor is adorned with frescoes by the famous artist Lucien Adolphe Labaudt in 1936.

Cliff House & Seal Rock –   Cross the Great Highway again to see The Cliff House. The Cliff House is the famous restaurant up on the cliffs overlooking the rugged ocean. The Cliff House was built in 1863 and has since been rebuilt a few times due to earthquakes and fires. It’s an iconic landmark of San Francisco.

As you look over the cliff, you’ll see the prime real estate of some of San Francisco’s sea lion residents. Seal Rock is always covered with the sleepy sea lions basking in the sun.

Golden Gate Park – Walk back toward the Beach Chalet again and you’ll see the windmills at the entrance to Golden Gate Park . This magnificent public park is over 1000 acres of meadows, lakes, gardens, landmarks, and museums. The park is over 3 miles long and you are entering at the western, or ocean end.

As you enter, follow the paths by the famed windmills and tulip garden, and then continue on to see buffalos, Stow Lake, and eventually to the concourse where you’ll find the Japanese Tea Garden and the museums. Enjoy the walk or take the free shuttle service through the park. You’ll see shuttle stops throughout the park. Here is more information about the shuttle: 

https://www.sfrecpark.org/1617/Golden-Gate-Park-Free-Shuttle

Golden Gate Park Highlights

• Golden Gate Park Windmills & Tulip Garden : These historic windmills are surrounded by a tulip garden.
• Buffalo Paddock : Everyone’s favorite – a field with a small herd of American bison live.
• Stow Lake : This lake is a popular spot for row boats, strolling, and exploring the famous Strawberry Hill Island.
• Japanese Tea Garden : Enjoy the oldest public Japanese garden in the US, including the iconic teahouse.
• California Academy of Sciences : We love this natural history museum with its aquarium, planetarium, rainforest, and rooftop garden.
• De Young Museum : One of SF’s premiere art museums showcasing American art from the 17th through the 21st centuries, international contemporary art, textiles, and fashion.
• Conservatory of Flowers : Enjoy this historic greenhouse with its huge collection of rare and exotic plants.
• San Francisco Botanical Garden : Find over 8,000 different kinds of flowers and plants from around the world.

Afternoon: 

Haight Ashbury & Lunch –   As you exit the park at Stanyan Street you’ll cross the street onto Haight. If you haven’t had tea at the Japanese Tea Garden, you may be ready for some lunch in the Haight Ashbury neighborhood. Choose from any of the great cafes, burger joints, and get ice cream at Ben & Jerry’s.

The Haight-Ashbury neighborhood in San Francisco is famously known as the birthplace of the 1960s “hippie” movement. This is where I lived when I first moved to San Francisco in the 1980’s. By then, it was becoming more and more gentrified and is now even more of a tourist location.  The streets are filled with beautiful Victorian architecture, and boutique shops. You’ll find a mix of cafes and music venues maintaining a bohemian vibe for “free spirits.” 

Sadly, the Haight also has another side including a homeless population and drug culture that may make some people uncomfortable, so I like to give visitors a heads up about that.

The Painted Ladies of Alamo Square – If you are up for more walking, head to Alamo Square to see the famous “Painted Ladies” houses –  It’s a 20 min walk from Haight Ashbury. Be ready for some stairs and hills while you walk!

The Painted Ladies are a row of Victorian and Edwardian houses on Steiner St. at Alamo Square Park. These houses are famous for their bright colors and have become a symbol of San Francisco. Have your camera ready, because this is one of the most photographed spots in the city!

Evening: 

Mission District Murals & Dinner – Just a 10 min drive from Haight Ashbury is The Mission District – San Francisco’s Latin cultural district offering amazing food and colorful street festivals. Not only is it the birth place to some of the world’s leading musicians, but it also has some of the most powerful street art and murals in the world. The murals of the Mission are about everything from politics and social injustices, to other cultural themes. Find all the details about the best murals here. It’s one of my favorite hidden gem activities in the city.

If you are ready for dinner, I recommend some traditional Mexican and Central American cuisine:

• Bon Nene : 2850 21st St.
• West of Pecos : 550 Valencia St.
• Lolo: 974 Valencia St.
• Taqueria El Castillito: 136 Church St.

After Dinner:

If you have some energy, I recommend you take advantage of San Francisco’s incredible cultural nightlife. Obviously, there are bars and clubs galore, but I’m talking about tix to a comedy show, a Broadway show, or to the Symphony, Opera, Ballet, or Jazz.

Premier San Francisco Venues:

Orpheum Theater 1192 Market St. The Orpheum Theater is a historic venue known for hosting Broadway productions and other major theatrical performances.

Golden Gate Theater 1 Taylor St. The Golden Gate Theater features a mix of touring Broadway shows, concerts, and special events in a beautifully restored setting.

Curran Theater  445 Geary St. The Curran Theater is a renowned venue for innovative and world-class theatrical productions.

SF Jazz Center 201 Franklin St. The SF Jazz Center is a premier concert hall dedicated to jazz music, offering a wide range of performances and educational programs.

Davies Symphony Hall 201 Van Ness Ave. Davies Symphony Hall is the home of the San Francisco Symphony, renowned for its exceptional acoustics and impressive architecture.

San Francisco Opera House 301 Van Ness Ave. The War Memorial Opera House is a grand venue hosting performances by the San Francisco Opera and Ballet, known for its historic elegance.

San Francisco Ballet 301 Van Ness Ave. The San Francisco Ballet, housed in the War Memorial Opera House, is celebrated for its world-class ballet productions and innovative choreography.

Cobbs Comedy Club 915 Columbus Ave. Cobbs Comedy Club is a popular venue offering top-notch stand-up comedy performances from both renowned and emerging comedians.

The Punch Line 444 Battery St. The Punch Line is an iconic comedy club known for its intimate setting and hosting a wide array of talented comedians.

→ CLICK Here for a Hop On Hop Off Bus Tour in San Francisco – A great way to see the city!

Day Two of 2 Days in San Francisco:

• Golden Gate Bridge
• Lombard St.
• Fisherman’s Wharf
• Ghirardelli
• North Beach Dinner
• Sunset Cruise

Morning: 

Golden Gate Bridge Breakfast – Start your day bright and early with breakfast at the Round House Cafe. This iconic art deco café, located at the south end of the Golden Gate Bridge, has been serving bridge walkers since 1938. Sip on a warm cup of coffee, layer up, and get ready for a memorable adventure! If you’re driving, there are parking lots at the bridge entrance, though finding a spot might require a bit of patience.

Walk Along the Golden Gate Bridge – I absolutely love a brisk walk on the Golden Gate Bridge, and I make it a point to bring all my visitors here. Stroll along this magnificent structure, soak in the breathtaking views, and let the history beneath your feet inspire you! The bridge spans 1.7 miles, so while you might not have time to traverse the entire length and back, feel free to capture as many photos as your heart desires. It’s an experience you won’t forget!

Lombard Street – Call a rideshare or drive to Lombard Street, the “crookedest street in the world.” Lombard Street is a long street, but you’ll know when you are nearing the destination when you start to drive up a few extremely steep blocks!  

This street is a San Francisco classic and a favorite of many. If you’re driving, brace yourself for the steep climb to the top at Hyde Street. Once there, don’t forget to look left for an incredible view. If you’re dropped off at the top, you can leisurely walk down and take in the beautiful homes and surroundings. Make sure to get that iconic photo from the bottom looking up!

Fisherman’s Wharf, Ghirardelli Square, and Pier 39 – After Lombard Street, walk down to the Bay, with Ghirardelli Square to your left and Fisherman’s Wharf and Pier 39 to your right. This area is lively and great for families. Enjoy some clam chowder in a sourdough bread bowl or fresh seafood, but if touristy spots aren’t your thing, a quick visit will suffice.

Here’s what to explore:

• Fisherman’s Wharf: Discover seafood restaurants, souvenir shops, and the waterfront charm. Don’t miss Madame Tussaud’s Wax Museum or the boat to Alcatraz.
• Ghirardelli Square: This historic landmark, once home to the Ghirardelli Chocolate Company, is now a charming public square with shops and restaurants.
• Pier 39: Famous for its sea lion colony, Pier 39 also offers entertainment, a carousel, shops, and restaurants. You can even catch a sailboat tour here.

Buena Vista Cafe – If you haven’t had lunch yet and you’re looking for an iconic spot, head to the Buena Vista Cafe at 2765 Hyde St. Known worldwide for its Irish coffee since 1916, it’s a delightful experience to watch the bartenders in action and enjoy a cup. Perfect with lunch or just some fries!

Cable Car Ride Right across from the Buena Vista Cafe, you’ll find the Powell/Hyde Cable Car. Purchase your tickets at the booth or online, and queue up for an unforgettable ride. Try to grab a seat facing outward for the best views, but any spot will make for a fun experience.

You’ll love the feeling of the car chugging up the hills and then flying down the other side!

Chinatown : Hop off the cable car at the Market St. turnaround and head up into Chinatown, one of the oldest and most vibrant in the country. It’s a bustling area filled with traditional shops, markets, temples, and delicious restaurants.

Chinatown Highlights include:

• Dragon’s Gate: The beautiful entrance at Grant Avenue and Bush Street.
• Grant Avenue: The main street with stores selling Chinese souvenirs.
• Portsmouth Square: The center of Chinatown.
• Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory: At 56 Ross Alley, where fortune cookies are made and you can create your own fortune.

Evening:  

North Beach Wrap up your day in North Beach, San Francisco’s Little Italy, a just-like-Europe neighborhood. Wander on Columbus Avenue, see historic landmarks, and feel the artistic culture of the Beat Generation.

Where to eat in North Beach

This neighborhood has some of the city’s best Italian restaurants. Here are some favorites:

• Tosca Cafe: 242 Columbus Ave
• Cafe Zoetrope: 916 Kearny St
• The Stinking Rose: 430 Columbus Ave
• Cafe Sport: 574 Green St

North Beach Highlights Include:

• Coit Tower: This Art Deco tower offers panoramic views and features 1930s murals.
• City Lights Books:   Founded by Lawrence Ferlinghetti in 1953, this historic bookstore is significant in the Beat literature movement.
• Cafe Vesuvio: An iconic café once frequented by Beat writers and artists.
• Saints Peter and Paul Church: A stunning Roman Catholic Church with twin spires, a notable feature of the North Beach skyline.

Sunset Cruise Enjoy a sunset cruise on the San Francisco Bay that takes you under the Golden Gate Bridge and along the coast of Sausalito. Feel the breeze, see dolphins, and watch the sun set over the San Francisco skyline! 

It leaves from Fisherman’s Wharf near the sea lion habitat. This is on my highly recommended list!

Where to stay in San Francisco

I’ve created a comprehensive list of the safest places to stay in San Francisco . Here are some of my favorite choices if you’re spending 2 days in San Francisco.

➡️ Best Bargain Boutique Hotel In San Francisco The Hotel Triton

In the heart of Union Square next to the gates of Chinatown is this hip hotel with unique rooms and an artistic vibe. They are known for their great service, terrific location, and the best French restaurant in town, Cafe De La Presse.

➡️ Best Comfy Boutique Hotel in San Francisco Hotel Zeppelin

This is in the beautiful Nob Hill neighborhood and is a good bargain. The Zeppelin celebrates San Francisco’s avant garde style. This is a comfy and affordable hotel in a great location.

➡️ Best Mid Range Boutique Hotel in San Francisco 1 Hotel San Francisco (formerly Hotel Vitale)

The 1 Hotel San Francisco is across from the Ferry Building with views of the skyline and the Bay. This hotel is known for its natural materials, sustainably sourced linens, and beautiful decor.

➡️ Best Luxury Boutique Hotel in San Francisco Hotel Drisco

This is a luxury boutique hotel at the top of the Pacific Heights neighborhood. The Drisco is an Edwardian style hotel with superb service, complimentary breakfasts and wine time!

Getting Around San Francisco

OK, San Francisco is a great place to visit, but the public transportation system is lacking a bit, so I’m not convinced that its your best choice in 2 day visit because it will take away from your fun time! Here is more information:

Walking Around San Francisco

WALK!!! Walking is the best way to see the city. Wear comfy shoes and climb those hills!

→ Book a GREAT walking tour of San Francisco Here!

San Francisco’s Public Transportation System

BART or the Bay Area Rapid Transit is a rail system that takes people from the East Bay and Peninsula into and out of the city. Used primarily by commuters.

MUNI or the Municipal Transit Agency includes buses, electric bus trolleys, light rail trains, cable cars and street cars. Load the MuniMobile App to plan your route and pay for your tickets. A 3 day visitor Pass on Muni Mobile is $31.

The Clipper Card is available for download on your phone, or you can purchase a physical card. The beauty of the Clipper Card is that it is good for ALL Bay Area transit – BART and Muni. 

Purchase here

Taxi & Uber & Lyft & Driverless Cars!

Uber and Lyft are San Francisco based companies, and are very popular choices for getting around. I recommend rideshare apps to avoid rental car fees, parking hassles and fees, and to save time, especially if traveling with a family or group. If you don’t have the apps on your phone yet, download now!

ARRO, YoTaxi SF , and FlyWheel are apps to load on your phone for taxi service. I have heard that they are more expensive and slower to respond than Uber or Lyft.

Waymo – You may be curious about autonomous cars as a way to get around San Francisco! The driverless cars by Waymo are available around the city. You need to load the app on your phone, join the waiting list, and when you are accepted, you can start using it. They avoid the freeways however, and the wait time for pick up is longer than Uber and Lyft. People love using Waymo, just order the car about 20 mins before you want to be picked up.

Consider this only if you plan on taking day trips out of the city. Otherwise, parking, especially when you don’t know where you’re going, can be a big problem. And honestly, not worth it in my book, if your goal is to enjoy and sightsee, you don’t want the ordeal of being responsible for a car.

→ Check Deals and Rent a Car Here!

Best Time To Visit San Francisco

San Francisco is great year round with the iconic Golden Gate Bridge, historic cable cars, and exciting cultural scene during all seasons.  The best time to visit for you depends on your preferences. Think about tourist crowds, weather, cost, and  the activities available. 

My Pick for the best time is the Fall – the months of September – November.

Tourist Crowds: January – March and September – November are the least crowded times. 

Weather: We have beautiful weather in Northern California most of the time, but San Francisco is notorious for its micro climates, fog, chilly marine layer, and unpredictable sunshine. 

Weather is best from September – November. The Spring (March – May) is also pleasant, with mild temperatures and fewer rainy days than in winter. December – February is our rainy season. The Fog and the Marine Layer are very real – so be prepared with layers!

Costs: Accommodations and flight prices tend to be higher during the peak tourist seasons – the summer and winter holidays. For better deals, consider visiting during the spring and fall, when demand is lower.

Activities Available: San Francisco  has some great festivals and events throughout the year. Summer brings outdoor concerts in Golden Gate Park, Pride celebrations in June, and the Fourth of July fireworks over the Bay. The Fall brings the Hardly Strictly Bluegrass Festival and the exciting Fleet Week. Winter, of course has holiday lights and then the Chinese New Year Parade is in February. 

I hope you enjoy your 2 days in San Francisco!

In a nutshell…

As a first timer or a frequent visitor, it’s always fun to explore the top spots in San Francisco! They’ll take you around the whole city from the Bay to the Pacific Ocean and everything in between. 

You can enjoy the busy tourist sites of Fisherman’s Wharf and Lombard Street and also soak in the sweeping landscapes of the beach, Golden Gate Park, and the Golden Gate Bridge.

In just 2 days, you can also enjoy the traditions of San Francisco’s famous neighborhoods like Haight Ashbury, Chinatown, and North Beach.

As cliche as it sounds, San Francisco really does have something for everyone and a 2 day visit will give you a great taste of the city by the Bay.

Carrie Green Zinn is the owner and author of Carrie Green Zinn - A Travel Blog, which helps travelers become inspired to explore and step out of their comfort zones. Carrie focuses on family vacations, empty nest travel, and girlfriend getaways. Her work is informed by her life as a former dancer, therapist, and school psychologist. She brings her passion for writing, photography, and making the world a smaller place to her ever growing blogging audience.

A perfect San Francisco layover

Sep 13, 2024 • 12 min read

San Francisco offers plenty of activities for your long layover. Getty Images

San Francisco is a small city on a seven-by-seven mile grid, which means it’s easy to see a lot of it in a short amount of time.

Visitors can make it from the historic Ferry Building on the Eastside waterfront to a magnificent sunset at Ocean Beach on the west side in a day, experiencing the culture, food and character of major neighborhoods along the way. If you want a more leisurely layover, focus on just a couple parts of the city, perhaps sticking to the greatest hits for first-time visitors. Skip Alcatraz and Angel Island on a layover, though, due to the amount of time they take to visit. 

How to get from the airport:

Fortunately, SFO is close to San Francisco proper, and affordable transportation options abound. BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit) trains on the Yellow Line run directly from SFO to various parts of the Bay Area. While the SFO BART station, located outside the International Terminal (G), is walkable from Terminals 1 and 3, the free AirTrain from all terminals is also an option. A BART ride to Powell station in downtown’s Union Square only takes 30 minutes, for a one-way fare of $8.95. Rideshares like Lyft or Uber, and taxis, cost about $25 and up to get to SF.

What should I do with my luggage?

SFO offers luggage storage in the International Terminal at the Airport Travel Agency, and charges anywhere from $7 per hour to $60 per day depending on luggage size. Allow 30 minutes for the process; the office is open 6am-11pm. Bounce , a cheaper storage option, has stations near SFO and in the city, though you'll have to factor in additional time for drop-off and pick-up. If opting for airport luggage storage, pack a change of clothing in a day pack if you don't want to return to the airport until your flight.

Where should I stay if I’m in San Francisco for 24 hours?

SFO has a few nap rooms in the International Terminal to rent for a few hours or overnight, but for the price, opt for a hotel depending on how much sleep is a priority. While downtown SF is quieter now that many people work remotely, the Union Square area is still a good home base for a 24-hour layover, as it offers many accommodation options, proximity to public transit, and walking distance to classic SF visitor destinations like Chinatown and North Beach. Budget travelers should consider hostels like the reputable  Hostelling International Downtown SF Hostel , which also offers private rooms. Newly opened or renovated hotels include the Beacon Grand (formerly The Sir Francis Drake), St. Regis or the hip boutique LINE hotel.

How should I get around the city if I’m in San Francisco for 24 hours?

Use a combination of BART and SF-only public transit system MUNI to get around SF, loading funds on a digital Clipper Card on your smartphone (or physical card) that works across public transit platforms, including the ferry and cable cars. A  1-Day Visitor Passport loaded onto your Clipper costs $13 and allows unlimited MUNI rides. Station-less bike share bicycles also dot the the city; riders can book by scanning bike QR codes through the Bay Wheels app. While MUNI does have late-night Owl bus service that runs into the wee hours, the schedule is infrequent, so rideshare services (or taxis) are preferable after midnight.

What should I do with 24 hours in San Francisco?

Early morning:.

San Franciscans are an active bunch, but it’s still pretty quiet before weekday rush hour begins around 7am. Enjoy the quiet and possible fog while everyone else is waking up.

Head to the Union Square area, specifically the nearly century-old Sears Fine Food on Powell near Post, which serves its famous 18 tiny Swedish pancakes with butter and lingonberry jam (for $3 extra). For a more contemporary SF breakfast, head a couple blocks east to the cozy Heist  for one of its famous breakfast burritos, like the house-made chorizo-filled Captain Crunch. 

Hop on either MUNI or BART from Powell station, or the above-ground vintage F Market & Wharves streetcar on Market at 4th or 5th streets, for a 5-minute ride to Embarcadero station.

The clock tower of the Ferry Building will greet you at the intersection of Market Street and The Embarcadero. Before going inside, take a morning stroll (20-45 minutes) southward along on the waterfront, where joggers, cyclists, and sometimes folks on rollerblades whiz past on the flat, stretch lined with palm trees. It’s an easy walk, though also a high traffic area, so be mindful of both cars and bikes. You’ll get a close view of the two-tiered steel San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge, which has one of the longest bridge spans in the US, at nearly 4.5 miles total.

Just half a mile south of the Ferry Building is grassy  Rincon Park , where a giant bow and arrow sculpture called Cupid’s Span reminds visitors and locals of the lovestruck feeling of being in San Francisco. Rest or meditate here, or keep walking southward for another half mile, where you’ll pass by two of SF’s old, quirky bars –  Hi Dive and  Red’s Java House . Then loop back north to the Ferry Building.

Mid-Morning:

The sun usually burns off the fog by mid-morning, which feels like a new day.

One can’t pass the Ferry Building Marketplace and not sample the bevy of artisanal food inside. While vendors come and go, there will always be a mouth-watering selection, like hot, lilikoi-filled malasadas from  Ocean Malasada , Cambodian yellow curry from  Lunette , or savory Jamaican beef patties from  Peaches Patties .

If it’s a Tuesday, Thursday or Saturday, walk through the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market  to get a taste of the plentiful local California produce that makes SF such a culinary capital. Saturday’s market is the largest, with more than 100 vendors wrapping around the building to the large outdoor space behind it. Here you'll find Asian produce like bok choy and bitter melon from Laotian-owned GG Farm , nopales (cactus pads) from Yerena Farms , the famous vegan No Cookie and mini bean pies from Delightful Foods and tasty chilaquiles from Primavera .

From the Ferry Building, hop back on MUNI or BART for a 12-minute ride to the Montgomery station to visit the stunning SFMOMA  (FYI, it's closed on Wednesdays). General admission is $30, though there are occasional Free Community Days ; floors one and two of the museum, however, do feature large public art spaces that are always free . If going for ticketed admission, allow roughly two hours to explore the museum, from the ongoing exhibit of wiry Alexander Calder hanging mobiles to temporary exhibitions like “Unity through Skateboarding,” which explores the history of pioneering skaters from marginalized communities.

After the museum, hop on MUNI/BART for one stop back to Powell station (or walk 11 minutes west) and head to the cable car turnaround at Powell and Market street. Single rides on the cable cars cost $8 – pay with your Clipper card (included with a 1-Day Visitor Passport ) or buy a ticket in advance at one of these locations . Take the Powell-Hyde line, which runs every 10-20 minutes, to the penultimate stop at Hyde and North Point streets near Ghirardelli Square. The ride takes 15 minutes, and you’ll pass by classic Victorian houses while riding up and down SF’s famous hills. 

Skip the tourist-heavy Fisherman’s Wharf, Pier 39 and Ghirardelli Square; instead head to the Hyde and North Point streets intersection for MUNI bus 30 The Presidio . The 16-minute ride west takes you to the new  Presidio Tunnel Tops . Enjoy the Tunnel Tops and pop into the Presidio Visitor Center  to learn more about this new, impressively designed park.

As the afternoon approaches, take advantage of the (likely) mild weather and the proactive San Francisco vibe and get outside. 

Presidio Tunnel Tops hosts a rotating schedule of food trucks as part of the Presidio Pop-Up program, which operate roughly 9am-3pm on weekdays and 9am-5pm on weekends. A few trucks serve food and drinks on weekdays, but upwards of a dozen set up Friday through Sunday: choose from Dungeness crab sandwiches smothered in homemade peanut sauce from Satay by the Bay , Filipino-Mexican burritos by Señor Sisig  and Bulgarian banítsa (hand-rolled phyllo rosettes) filled with sheep’s milk cheese from Kuker . There is ample picnic space to eat, and Tunnel Tops will also unveil a new indoor food hall in 2025.

One of the newest SF parks, Presidio Tunnel Tops was actually built atop and around the Presidio Parkway tunnels, opening up more 14 acres of green space to the public. The gorgeous park, designed by the same firm behind New York City’s innovative High Line, appeals to almost everyone with picnic areas, a large communal campfire pit, a playground made from upcycled materials, a nature education center, the food truck pop-up program, and plenty of programming year-round, from an Intertribal Dance Gathering to a World Arts West Dance Festival. 

Tunnel Tops also offers the opportunity to see the Golden Gate Bridge from a new vantage point, plus sweeping views of the adjacent skyline. Roaming around the park can be enough for an afternoon, but if you've got time, head to the Walt Disney Family Museum  across the street.

Afterward, walk back to the Mason St.-Tunnel Tops stop and hop on MUNI bus 30 Caltrain Depot to Chinatown, riding for 40 minutes and alighting at Stockton and Pacific streets.

While many SF residents now work from home, happy hour is still a thing, with dinner times bumped up a little earlier since 2020. Food is important to locals, and the number of restaurants continues to grow. There are also plenty of live theater shows, cabarets, concerts, independent movie theaters and more at night. Note that many restaurants close by 9pm these days, but night owls still have plenty of options in neighborhoods that skew younger, like the Mission and Hayes Valley, parts of Chinatown and around the nightclubs in SoMa.

While Chinatown classics like the seafood restaurant  R&G Lounge and old-school Chinese diner  Capital  make up the backbone of Chinatown, new restaurants keep the neighborhood moving into the future.  Four Kings is the new brick-and-mortar for the previously roving pop-up by two alums of the Michelin-starred  Mister Jiu’s . Hong Kong diner dishes like fried pork chops over rice get a fine dining glow-up in a nostalgic ‘90s Canto-pop ambiance. Reservations can be hard to book online, though there are typically same-day slots for dinner after 8pm or 9pm, plus bar seating and a few tables saved for walk-ins.

If you want a more casual meal without the wait, try the newer, bigger location of Hon’s Wun-Tun House on Washington Street, where freshly made shrimp-and-pork wontons are served on a bed of chewy egg noodles, all bathed in a steaming hot chicken broth and dotted with bright green scallions.

If you arrive in Chinatown by 3pm, grab at $12 ticket to the Chinese Historical Society’s popular exhibit, “We are Bruce Lee: Under the Sky, One Family.” While the Showgirl Magic Museum on Waverly Place is only open on Saturdays 2-6pm and requires an advanced reservation (admission-free, but is donation-based), it’s a rare glimpse into the swinging SF Chinatown burlesque and nightclub scene from the 1940s-1970s, with former showgirls running the museum.

The Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory in Ross Alley stays open until 6:30pm on weekdays and 7pm on weekends; watch fortune cookies being folded by hand, and enjoy plenty of free samples. The soon-to-be-remodeled and possibly renamed Portsmouth Square Park is great for people-watching, whether it’s an ensemble of locals playing Chinese instruments, old folks playing chess, or groups doing Tai Chi exercises. If you’re looking for an evening show, the historic  Great Star Theater on Jackson Street offers traditional Chinese opera and film festivals, plus burlesque, comedians, book launches and more.

After dark:

SF gets quiet after midnight, if not earlier. Still, the city has been offering more late-night options, and nightlife lovers can always sniff out an afterparty or two.

Late-night dining in SF has  returned to a degree post-pandemic. If you still find yourself in Chinatown, late night eats abound:  Yuet Lee  serves Cantonese stir-fried classics until 11pm, and Taishan stays open until 3am. If you're in neighboring North Beach, go to Sam’s on Broadway and Columbus for classic burgers and fries.

If bar hopping along Polk Gulch near the Tenderloin, try the queer-friendly, Portuguese-inflected  Grubstake Diner that’s open until 3am on weekdays and 4am on weekends, or the 24-hour Bob’s Donuts for melt-in-your mouth apple fritters. If the Castro is more your speed,  Orphan Andy’s serves breakfast until 9:45pm on weeknights, and stays open 24 hours Thursdays through Saturdays.

Many taquerias in the Mission stay open late to serve the bar crowd, like El Farolito and La Taqueria serving hefty Mission-style burritos, or various street vendors slinging bacon-wrapped hot dogs.  ABV serves food until midnight. If you're bar hopping southward on Mission Street and end up in Bernal Heights, neighborhood favorite Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack just started serving dinner until midnight on Fridays and Saturdays.

If you want something closer to Union Square, the Hinodeya Ramen location on O’Farrell at Powell serves high quality ramen until 1:30am.

Staying in Chinatown for the evening? Go to the kitschy Li Po Cocktail Lounge , with its distinctive lantern-shaped neon sign and trademarked Chinese Mai Tai that put Anthony Bourdain under the table. Down the block on Grant Avenue is the less touristy Buddha Lounge , with a bartender who will play dice with you if asked. The  Lion’s Den off Grant near Jackson opened in the vein of former night club Forbidden City, drawing an eclectic crowd for a mixture of live bands and DJs.

Drift just north of Chinatown to North Beach for more nightlife. Take a literary break in the legendary Beat Generation-born City Lights bookstore, which stays open until 10pm. Then head next door to  Vesuvio Cafe or across the street to Specs for bohemian bar vibes. More adventurous visitors can check out the strip clubs across just up the street on Broadway, with the Condor being the most historic of the bunch, claiming the title of first topless club in the city. Even just a walk up and down the block to look at the neon signs and get solicited by the bouncers and promoters can be fun.

If nightclubs and dancing are more your thing, SoMa is still the main nightclub district, home to  Cat Club known for its ‘80s goth and New Wave nights,  Monarch and its basement-level dance floor, and the five-story  1015 Folsom with a different genre of music on each floor. Most open until 2am or 3am on weekends. If you’re trying to stay up all night and want after-hours spots, ask a bartender, bouncer, or club regular where to go, as some parties rove around and may be off-the-books.

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Development Of A Luxury Overnight Train Connecting San Francisco And Los Angeles Is Underway

The development of a luxury overnight train connecting San Francisco and Los Angeles is underway and expected to be operational in 2024.

Rafael Peña • Apr 27, 2023

Plans are underway to establish an overnight first-class passenger train service connecting San Francisco and Los Angeles. California startup company Dreamstar Lines is overseeing the privately-funded project of the heavily-traveled route. The train service plans to be operational as early as the summer of 2024.

According to SFGATE , Dreamstar is in discussions with Metrolink and Union Pacific Railroad Co. to execute the plan. Substantial work still needs to be accomplished, however, in terms of securing funding, contracts, and agreements.

The company’s plan is to design a luxurious train with five or six sleeper cars and a lounge area, adhering to the “Streamline Moderne” style, which encompasses Art Deco features and components from vintage streamliner railcars. The train will run from 10 p.m. to 8:30 a.m., with stops in Santa Barbara, San Jose , and San Luis Obispo. Ticket prices are estimated to range between $300 and $1000.

First Overnight Train Service Between The Cities In Decades

Dreamstar is seeking approval to operate the first night train along the San Francisco-Los Angeles route in over four decades. Previously, the Spirit of California, an Amtrak train, served as an overnight service between Sacramento and LA until 1983. The Southern Pacific Company also operated a first-class night train called the Lark between San Francisco and LA from 1941 to 1968.

Railroads played a crucial role in the expansion and development of the United States during the 19th century. However, railroads began to decline towards the end of the century due to inadequate management and a lack of government regulations. The advent of automobiles and, eventually, airplanes lured many passengers away from rail travel, and by the 1980s, government-owned Amtrak had taken over passenger railroad transportation. The few remaining private passenger trains eventually disappeared.

Rail travel has garnered renewed interest in recent years, with U.S. Transportation Secretary Pete Buttigieg advocating for various public transportation projects throughout the country. His goal is to reduce traffic, pollution, and the cost of living for millions of Americans.

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San Francisco Noir

Noirish scenes from today’s San Francisco. From left, a strip in North Beach; in the Stockton Street Tunnel; Burritt Street, a pivotal location in Dashiell Hammett’s “Maltese Falcon.”

Dashiell Hammett is indelibly linked to both San Francisco, where he lived for most of the 1920s, and noir. He is pictured here in Hollywood in 1940.

Hammett’s restored apartment at 891 Post Street, where he lived and wrote.

A replica of the Maltese Falcon, one of many around the city, in Hammett’s apartment.

Burritt Street, where Sam Spade’s partner is murdered in “The Maltese Falcon.”

The House of Shields, in the Financial District, opened in 1908.

During Prohibition, drinking at the House of Shields moved down to the basement.

Much of the original bar has been restored, including the bar rail.

A warren of alleys in North Beach afford great views of the city, but also a what’s-around-the-corner nervousness.

In North Beach, Tosca Cafe dates to 1919, just before Hammett moved to the city.

Tosca was a popular dive bar for decades; it has been restored by the chef April Bloomfield and her business partner, Ken Friedman.

Just down Columbus Avenue from Tosca is Comstock Saloon; the space dates to 1907 and has been continually operating as a bar ever since.

In 2010, new owners reopened the space as Comstock and included the original bar, where cocktails both new and classic are prepared.

A street scene in the Tenderloin, where many of Hammett’s books and stories are set.

Wilson and Wilson Private Detective Agency, in the Tenderloin, is a speakeasy-style bar secreted within another speakeasy-style bar.

The name is a playful nod to a woman whose effects from the ’20s were found during construction.

Dashiell Hammett Street is just across from Burritt.

By Dan Saltzstein

• June 27, 2014

San Francisco is well known for its transformations, the most recent one fueled by tech money that has seemingly scrubbed much of the city clean. Evidence of it tends to be easy to mock: the $4 artisanal toast , the shuttle buses carrying workers from the city interior to Silicon Valley, the preponderance of reclaimed wood. But for almost a century, the city has been indelibly linked with an enigmatic genre that might be considered an antidote to all of that: noir.

Like the characters that populate it, noir can be tough to put your finger on: a fog rolling in from the bay and coating city streets; a lonely sort of glamour perched on a bar rail; a sense of menace just over your shoulder. It is a genre that revels in ambiguity.

And so perhaps a search for noir in San Francisco was bound to yield some mysteries. Was an apartment at the edge of the Tenderloin, one lovingly restored in the décor of a bygone era, actually home not just to the writer Dashiell Hammett but his most famous creation, Sam Spade? Who was the enigmatic woman from the 1920s whose name adorns a nearby cocktail bar, lovingly made, speakeasy style, in an actual speakeasy? And what about that doorway at the end of the alley, a pivotal location in Hammett’s best-known book?

Above all: Could this city still be home to noir?

The search — through the Tenderloin, neighboring Union Square and Nob Hill and up into North Beach — led me to a handful of disparate but passionate individuals, dedicated, in one way or another, to celebrating an era when the idea of darkness held a certain romance, when corrupted heroes lost out at the end of the tale. If noir, or at least the appreciation of it, is still alive in San Francisco, it’s largely due to them. And it turns out that, though it may have gone dormant for a time, there’s a broad sense of gratitude in the city for their efforts.

My guide through this urban landscape, in spirit and inspiration, was Hammett. Though he lived in San Francisco for less than a decade, his association with both the city and noir is inarguable; his early stories and novels are the ur-texts of noir, and Spade its antiheroic face.

I met Don Herron, one of Hammett’s pre-eminent appreciators, in front of the Flood Building in Union Square. The structure used to house the San Francisco offices of Pinkerton’s National Detective Agency, where Hammett was an operative during the early 1920s, and is one of the few landmarks to have survived the great earthquake of 1906. It has, however, undergone a transformation: It now is home to well-trafficked outlets of the Gap and Anthropologie.

Nevertheless, it is a regular stop on the noir tours that Mr. Herron, a genial man with a slightly disheveled look and a wild white beard, has conducted in San Francisco since 1977. But soon after we started chatting, Mr. Herron said something that, as a devotee, made my heart sink. Hammett’s writing, Mr. Herron said, wasn’t really noir.

He went on to explain: “Hammett is almost a precursor,” he said. “He’s proto-noir.”

Hammett’s work, which at the time was called hard-boiled or pulp, would come to encapsulate noir, a genre with a dizzying timeline: The term was coined and popularized in the late 1940s and early ’50s by French film critics who used it to describe American films from that era (the 1941 John Huston adaptation of “Falcon” is generally considered the first major noir release), many of which were, in turn, based on books written in the ’20s and ’30s. Hence, proto-noir.

It was hard to imagine that the building in its current incarnation could have figured into the origin story of anything besides a modest credit card debt. But when Hammett was a Pinkerton operative, the experience informed and honed his writing in a way no other mystery writer could claim. He left the agency by early 1922, soon after his arrival in the city, and turned his efforts to fiction. By 1923, he had placed a few stories in Black Mask , a popular pulp magazine.

Out of those stories came Hammett’s two greatest books, “Red Harvest,” which featured a nameless detective called the Continental Op, and “The Maltese Falcon,” which introduced the Op’s better-known successor, Sam Spade. Still, what first drew Mr. Herron to Hammett had more to do with the sheer power of his writing. In a staccato as direct as a passage out of early Hammett, he said: “I really like the stories. The fiction.”

Mr. Herron and I headed from now-touristy Union Square into the Tenderloin, the notoriously seedy neighborhood where Hammett lived and set many of his stories. Of all of old San Francisco, it may be the neighborhood most intact. Many buildings date to the ’20s; notable Art Deco touches appear occasionally. Demographics have changed, but its sense of character remains. On Post Street we passed a Chinese coffee shop where locals of all races lined the sidewalk, a half-block from a homeless family decamped in a doorway. Crime is still a major presence in the Tenderloin, these days largely fueled by an active drug culture.

Mr. Herron stopped occasionally to point out intact spots from Hammett’s life and work. Still a stunner is the Geary Theater (now home to the American Conservatory Theater ), where Joel Cairo, a “Falcon” villain, attends a performance of “The Merchant of Venice” — a tidbit, Mr. Herron noted, that turned out to be the forensic evidence necessary to place the exact time of the novel’s events: In the book, the British actor George Arliss is playing Shylock, a fact that dates the story to early December 1928.

We continued up through the Tenderloin, Mr. Herron pointing out probable hotel stand-ins from “Falcon” — and 891 Post Street, where Hammett lived and wrote.

The young author must have cut a striking figure walking into that building. He was tall and rail thin; tuberculosis contracted stateside while in the Army during World War I made his weight a constant struggle. He had a long, handsome face topped by a gray pompadour.

In his writing, Hammett was obsessive, almost comically so, about San Francisco geography. Locations pile up like elements in a chemical equation: “Pine Street, between Leavenworth and Jones”; “the Garfield Apartments on Bush Street”; “walking over to California Street.”

But no location holds a more essential place than our next stop, Burritt Street, where, in “The Maltese Falcon,” Sam Spade’s partner, Miles Archer, is shot and killed by the book’s femme fatale, Brigid O’Shaughnessy. (Twenty-five years ago, Mr. Herron told me, he talked the poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti, tasked with naming streets after prominent area literary figures, out of renaming Burritt for Hammett. He redirected him to a different alley across the street, where Hammett had lived briefly.)

A plaque does decorate Burritt, though, rather delightfully not mentioning the book by name: “On approximately this spot, Miles Archer, Sam Spade’s partner, was done in by Brigid O’Shaughnessy.”

As we approached the alley, Mr. Herron became more animated, narrating the pivotal scene from the book. Like Spade in the book, he “went to the parapet, and, resting his hands on the damp coping, looked down into Stockton Street.” He noted that the fog that damps the parapet — “thin, clammy, and penetrant,” Hammett wrote — wasn’t added just for atmosphere. “It was wintertime, remember,” he said. “Everything is intentional.”

We descended onto Stockton. Mr. Herron had noted a door at the end of Burritt and said he had always wondered where it led — and thought he had it figured out. A half-block away was the newly re-branded Mystic Hotel, at the tail end of a restoration. We headed up a flight of stairs and were ushered into the Burritt Room, a speakeasy-style bar fronting a tavern room in a space that was indeed once a speakeasy. The bar wasn’t open yet, but we were taken up a couple more flights, out an unmarked door — and into the back end of Burritt. (I would later find out that denizens of the speakeasy would enter through that door.) One mystery explained.

Back at the bar, Mr. Herron and I sat down over a beer (him) and a glass of rye (me). We discussed, among dozens of other topics, what defines noir. He began by listing some essential ingredients from “The Maltese Falcon.”

“The femme fatale, the murder, the city — a lot of it at night,” he said. “They coalesce into this perfect thing.”

The key ingredient, though, was an unhappy ending.

“Sam Spade kind of loses,” he said. “There’s a sense of failure.”

On our way out, a bartender, setting up for the evening rush, asked about the Hammett connection, about which he knew little. “He wrote about that alley, right?” he asked.

The Burritt Room is just one of seemingly endless spots around town housed in former speakeasy spaces. In just the first day of my trip, I hit three places that, at least in theory, Hammett could have visited during his San Francisco days.

The House of Shields is a charming spot in the Financial District that opened in 1908; during Prohibition, the drinking moved down to the basement. I made an early visit, and the crowd seemed to be a mix of after-work imbibers, cocktail enthusiasts and tourists. The bar was renovated a few years ago, but plenty remains intact. A soaring but narrow interior features a substantial bar rail, gorgeous carved lighting fixtures and the namesake shields, which surround a huge mirror — all original, except the mirror. I ordered a Green Point, a brooding variation on the manhattan with yellow chartreuse; it’s a modern concoction, but felt about right.

Hammett was an alcoholic, and almost certainly spent his share of time in speakeasies. Mentions of liquors of all sorts are peppered throughout his stories and letters — but mostly straight stuff, and he apparently wasn’t too picky. The rare cocktail references are as simple as could be; in “The Maltese Falcon,” Sam Spade imbibes from an apparently pre-mixed bottle of “Manhattan cocktail” he stores in an office desk drawer.

I wandered across the street to the Palace Hotel and its stunningly elegant Garden Court restaurant , where Sam Spade stopped for lunch (“he ate hungrily without haste”), then headed up in the lovely early-evening light to North Beach, best known as home to San Francisco’s Italian-American community and as the heart of the Beat culture that dominated the area in the ’50s.

On Columbus Avenue, across from City Lights Bookstore, where many of those Beat writers congregated, is Tosca Cafe. Tosca was brand-new when Hammett came to town, having opened in 1919, and over the years became a destination dive bar, host to local regulars and celebrities alike. After it faced eviction last year, the chef April Bloomfield and Ken Friedman, her business partner, took over the space and renovated it — but with careful attention to maintaining its period feel.

The banquettes may no longer be torn, but they are intact (and generally full — the place has become one of the city’s hottest spots since its renovation). The House Cappuccino, a booze-infused take born during Prohibition, has been updated to include Armagnac, bourbon, artisanal chocolate and organic milk (and, by the way, no coffee). I instead sampled a pleasantly fruity Zamboanga cocktail, and dishes like the chicken liver spiedini, one of a few that are indicative of Ms. Bloomfield’s nose-to-tail approach. (It’s possible Sam Spade would have approved; in “The Maltese Falcon,” Hammett has him snacking on pickled pigs’ feet.)

I headed behind Tosca into the warren of alleys that blankets North Beach. They afford great views of the city, but also a what’s-around-the-corner nervousness. If you are looking for the shadowy atmospheric side of noir, this spot might capture it best. (The area also makes a cameo as the site of a rooftop chase scene in Hammett’s Continental Op story “The Big Knockover.”)

Back down Columbus is Comstock Saloon. The space dates to 1907 and has been continuously operating as a bar ever since. In 2010, new owners reopened it as Comstock, including the original bar, complete with a tiled urinal at its base — a not-uncommon sight in the men-only saloons of the pre-Prohibition era. The menu is peppered with classics, including my selection: a boozy ’20s-era cocktail called Twelve-Mile Limit , its name a reference to the seafaring parameters of the Volstead Act.

A couple of days later, I visited the spot that has most benefited from an association with Hammett: John’s Grill, in Union Square, which features portraits of local police officers, not celebrities, on its walls, and on its signage the phrase “Home of the Maltese Falcon.” It’s not, at least not literally: The falcon behind glass on the restaurant’s second floor is an oversize replica (one of a number scattered around town; the actual movie prop, likely one of two, sold at auction last year for an astounding $4 million) — but John’s is indeed featured in the book, though briefly: Sam Spade eats a hurried lunch while waiting for a car to pick him up.

Perhaps no spot better celebrates the San Francisco-noir association better than a speakeasy-style bar secreted within another speakeasy-style bar — and in the Tenderloin no less. Heading down Jones Street toward O’Farrell, I passed a pane of frosted glass labeled the Wilson and Wilson Private Detective Agency. With a password, I gained entry to Bourbon and Branch, a dimly lit and bustling cocktail bar. After a quick right through a fake wall, I headed into Wilson and Wilson, a love letter to noir, Prohibition-era drinking and, as the name indicates, the detective trade.

The letter is from Brian Sheehy, who owns five bars around the city — with two more opening soon, including an apothecary-themed spot next to Tosca — and is obsessive about research; what might otherwise feel gimmicky feels passionately thought-out. With the Tenderloin spots, that research, he said, included Hammett.

“The two cornerstones of his writing were reality and authenticity,” Mr. Sheehy said over the strains of ’20s-era swing and jazz. “And, of course, it’s hard-boiled.”

The Tenderloin, he continued, “would probably be considered the hardest of all hard-boiled eggs in San Francisco.”

He added, “And then when it comes to the reality, you can just step outside the door.”

All that research lead Mr. Sheehy to identify the authenticity: During the Prohibition era, the space had briefly been a “beverage parlor” owned by one Frank Ipswitch, and then, for the bulk of the ’20s, J. J. Russell’s “cigar shop.”

“These guys,” Mr. Sheehy said, gesturing at the bartenders, who served drinks to a mostly youthful crowd, some dressed up for the occasion, “are our detectives. They’re investigating the history of cocktails.”

The result of those investigations have yielded cocktails more complex than Hammett is ever likely to have seen — as we chatted, I sipped on a Truth Serum (scotch, amaro, brown-sugar-cinnamon syrup, sarsaparilla bitters, licorice root tincture). Still, the place shows a spirited attention to detail, from the elaborate theatrics of entry to a menu that includes a dossier, complete with photos and artifacts, exploring the bar’s name.

That name is a playful nod to what turns out to be a mystery in progress — one that may never be fully solved. When contractors were doing construction for Bourbon and Branch, Mr. Sheehy explained, they came upon a variety of items: papers, lace underwear, cartons of Lucky Strikes. But the most mysterious and richest find was a bloodstained bag (yes, bloodstained), probably lost in May 1931. Inside were items indicating that the bag belonged to one Lorraine Adeline Wilson . Many of the items are amazingly intact, including lipstick, rouge, food stamps and her bank ID card.

Mr. Sheehy said they have not yet been able to locate her descendants.

The night before, I found myself back at 891 Post Street, Hammett’s home. I was led into the building and up a creaky antique elevator by Eddie Muller, a San Francisco native, author and self-proclaimed “noirchaeologist.” We headed to the fourth floor and entered apartment 401; I was immediately struck by a sensation of having traveled through time.

The apartment has been restored to be a simulacrum of what it might have looked like in the ’20s, outfitted with all things vintage: a gramophone, a frosted-glass door and a desk topped with a typewriter and lamp — and yet another replica falcon.

As we sat down to chat over a bottle of bourbon, Mr. Muller, a pleasantly gregarious man clad in a checkered beige suit, blue tie and pocket square, began to explain the story of the apartment’s revival. (The apartment is not open to the public; I got lucky in that Mr. Muller is one of only a couple of people with access. “It is more like a shrine than a museum,” he told me, with evident pride.)

Hammett had sent letters from 891 Post Street, where he wrote three of his five novels, but the apartment’s exact location had to be teased out of clues, ones embedded in “The Maltese Falcon,” by the apartment’s one-time resident, Bill Arney, who had taken Mr. Herron’s tour years before. Spade, too, lived on Post Street, and a few further details — it’s a fourth-floor apartment in proximity to the elevator; there’s an unusual bend in the hallway — left only one suspect: apartment 401.

After Mr. Arney gave up the apartment, Mr. Muller contacted a friend, Robert Mailer Anderson, an acclaimed writer and philanthropist, who had the resources to make the restoration happen. The idea, Mr. Muller said, was “so that it looks like Hammett just went out for a pack of cigarettes.”

Mr. Muller’s love for the genre extends well beyond Hammett’s work. For 12 years he has run the Noir City Film Festival. When it started, he said, it was mostly driven by his personal passions. Now the audience is so enthusiastic that some attendees — many of them of a younger generation — dress up in period costume.

“I don’t think it’s a kitschy thing or a retro thing,” he said. “I think people are drawn to social interaction in an age where social interaction is almost meaningless.”

I asked Mr. Muller why Hammett wrote about San Francisco with enormous specificity but little emotion.

“Because he was a detective,” he said. “He’s writing reports.” That approach became highly influential on what would eventually be called noir.

As the light began to fade and shadows crept across the room, Mr. Muller said he believed that the appeal of noir can be summed up in his three-word description of the genre: “suffering with style.” Noir, he said, “presupposes the worst aspects of human nature,” yet its birth “coincided with the pinnacle of American style.” That juxtaposition all began with Hammett.

Part of Mr. Muller’s take on noir is that, in the end, it’s not about solving mysteries. The Maltese Falcon is — spoiler alert — not the Maltese Falcon. It’s a fake. As I headed down Post back toward Union Square, I realized that my search for noir was itself based on a red herring. Noir is a state of mind. I thought back to a phrase Mr. Herron had used.

“It’s almost a magic spell,” he said.

A picture caption last Sunday with the continuation of the cover article about the development of noir in San Francisco carried an erroneous credit. The top row of cityscape photographs were by Jason Henry for The New York Times, not by Matthew Ryan Williams. (Mr. Williams took the other photos.) In addition, the article referred imprecisely to the direction taken by the writer from Union Square to the Tenderloin. It was south and west, not “up,” as in north.

How we handle corrections

Dan Saltzstein is an editor of the Travel section of The Times.

There are numerous hotels mentioned in “The Maltese Falcon,” but only a couple are real. One still exists: the Pickwick (85 Fifth Street; 800-227-3282; thepickwickhotel.com ; rooms from $149), in SoMa, just off Union Square. The hotel’s attached “stage terminal” (now a parking garage) is where the “bundle” (what the characters think is the falcon) is dropped off and picked up. The hotel is pleasant enough, and centrally located.

For dedicated fans, the century-old Hotel Union Square (114 Powell Street; 800-553-1900; hotelunionsquare.com ) offers a spacious Dashiell Hammett Suite (July rates from $156), complete with a vintage typewriter; an overcoat, scarf and fedora perched on a coat rack; and yet another falcon replica. “Spade and Archer” is etched on a window.

To Eat and Drink

Burritt Room, Mystic Hotel, 417 Stockton Street; 415-400-0500; mystichotel.com/Eat-Drink/Burritt-Room .

Comstock Saloon, 155 Columbus Avenue; 415-617-0071; comstocksaloon.com .

The House of Shields, 39 New Montgomery Street; thehouseofshields.com .

Tosca Cafe, 242 Columbus Avenue; 415-986-9651; toscacafesf.com .

Wilson and Wilson Private Detective Agency at Bourbon and Branch, 505 Jones Street; thewilsonbar.com . Reservations through website required.

For a tour by Don Herron ( donherron.com ), contact him at [email protected] . The fee is $20, and requests should be made well in advance. Eddie Muller ( eddiemuller.com ) runs the Noir City Film Festival ( noircity.com ). Check the website for future events and information.