2001 chrysler voyager crankshaft position sensor location

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Replacing Crankshaft Position Sensor on 3.3 (with pictures)

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sometimes, it is very tight and hard to remove.  

Twist the sensor in the bore as you pull outward, it gets tight due to build up on the in-board end of the sensor.  

okay got the sensors for the crankshaft and the camshaft, the camshaft is right in the front of the engine...but I can't find the crankshaft. Will I need to jack the car up & take a wheel off? Or is it simpler than that. I look at the 3.3 explanation but still couldn't find it. Sorry to keep on bothering you all.  

Its pretty high up and not that easy to get to on a 3.5 from the top and iv done it twice. I did them both from under the car with it jacked up but i left the wheel on just tuned all the way to the right.  

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Unveiled at the 2000 North American International Auto Show on January 10, 2000, the redesigned 2001 Dodge Caravan and 2001 Chrysler Town & Country were released for sale in August 2000.

lamonj777 @lamonj777

Posted: Nov 22, 2016

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were is the crankshaft sensor located

i have a 1999 plymouth voyger2.4l dohc i cant locate the crankshaft sensor

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L Pfaff @lpfaff1

Rep: 101.6k

Posted: Nov 23, 2016

Chrysler 2.4 crankshaft position sensor is bolted in lower engine block, behind the engine (engine side facing the vehicle's firewall) look above the oil filter adapter from under car. Crank sensor held/secured by a bolt, remove bolt and sensor will come out with a little pull/twist force. Links below show the location and how to test crank sensor. Good luck.

I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TA3IEevw...

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/chrysle...

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Mike barnes @mikeb69

Posted: Oct 17, 2018

I got a doge 2006 caravan 3.3 where my crank shift seneror at

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• 4th Generation Chrysler Minivans: 2001-2007

Broken crankshaft position sensor.

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I have a 2001 Town & Country 3.3 liter. I was replacing the crankshaft position sensor and it broke off. It is hard to get it out of the very tight space I have to work in. Where would it fall if I pushed it in? Into the engine oil pan or the transmission housing? Has anyone experienced this? I need ideas or suggestions.  

On the Sebring Convertible board, another member did something like this. He ended up screwing in a wood screw into the broken sensor piece, then used a pair of pliers to pry out the broken part. The part would rattle around inside the transmission bellhousing, if you would push it on. For that reason, it's not recommended.  

it attaches to the transmission housing. did you break the electrical connector off? If so, you should be able to gently pry the sensor out. "The crankshaft sensor is located on the rear of the transmission housing, above the differential housing. The bottom of the sensor is positioned next to the drive plate."  

Yes the electrical connector broke off, This thing is yes stuck in there. I tried diffrent lock pliers with no success, my next step would be the screw method if I can even get it in there.Thank you for your responces.  

I recently helped a friend or neighbor with his 2005 Chrysler Pacifica rear camshaft sensor that broke off in motor port , I have never exp. This type of problem and so with my little exp. On this type of problem , I gave it a shot and I tried to predrill so I could put in a tapered wood screw and all the times I tried the drill bit. Would move off center , Due to brass metal that was on the broken inner camshaft sensor , So after doing some research I was able to just go with what I felt on my best judgement and let me add that I was not able to see what I was doing visually when I was under the car we had put up on jackstands so I used a video probe with. Handheld monitor, it helped but was pretty much a hassle after about 3 or 4 days 2 hrs a day of working on trying to remove this sensor I was able to remove it by selftapping (a bigger than your standard sheetrock screw ) a machine tapered sharp screw at a 90 degree angle but just enough to not penetrate the metal outer part of sensor you have to use your best judgement on how far to hand screw this screw with a Philips screw driver. I'd say like 3 or 4 half turns in then I took a pair of channel lock pliers at an angle and used the transmission housing for leverage and grabbed that screw by the underside and slowly just pulled up on the screw and what do I know it popped out and now I was left with an inner surface that was not letting the new sensor to be installed so that's where we ate at now but that's how I removed the broken sensor so now I have to figure out what to do to get that port to. Accept that new sensor thank you I hope this helps anyone having the problems I had  

read this .... http://dave.isom.us/broken-crankshaft-position-sensor/  

Great article about removing a crank position sensor out of a Chrysler engine. Read it the entire way through. I fully, 100% agree with that article's last sentence.  

The crank sensors that go into the engine blocks are a PITA when they break off. GM started using these direct read crank sensor in 1987 on the 2.8L V6. I have had to deal with both a L4 and 60' V6 GM engines with broken sensors on several occations. A sharp drywall screw has saved me everytime. The V6's sensor is located under the rear banks exhaust manifold which makes it even more fun to get to! At least with the trans mounted Chrysler crank sensor you can slide it in a bit further when lined up with a window in the flexplate, which will make it easier to clean up the bore before trying to extract it. On the direct read sensors if you push the sensor in it bottoms out on the crank since the windows are smaller. Just be sure to have a drywall screw threaded in to it before you try this so it doesn't get away from you and drop into the bellhousing :eekkkk:  

1994 Sport said: ... A sharp drywall screw has saved me everytime. ,,, Click to expand...

Yes sharp because I didn't predrill it.  

One thing about drywall screws which I use for almost everything wood or plastic, they are very brittle. I've broken dozens of those things but I love them anyway. In the article notice that the metal screw he used is bent, a drywall screw may not tolerate this much bending.  

I might try to use a small flat-headed screwdriver to deform the outer metal shell enough to separate the o-ring from the shell. That is what is keeping your crank sensor remnant inside. Once the metal shell and the o-ring are removed, the remaining pieces should not be a concern. I would, however, clean the bore with something like a wire brush to remove the corrosion. I'd also coat the bore and the new sensor with dielectric grease (or something) to limit any further corrosion.  

If you remove the exhaust cross-over, you will have a clear view of the crank sensor. Buy 2 metal gaskets to re-install it. Otherwise, you might get at it from inside the wheel well. At a minimum, remove the cruise control and maybe the battery tray. I am guessing the metal piece is stainless or aluminum, else you would have used a magnet to pull it out.  

UPDATE: First of all, I want to thank you guys for the good ideas and support on the forum trying to help others. Well... after working on that sensor for a whole week, I just got done putting it back on this evening. To be honest, I have been playing with cars and tools since I was 13 years old helping my older brother. I never thought that a one-hour sensor job would take me waaaaaay too many hours. It almost became a nightmare after (Drilling, twisting, pulling, extracting, tapping, filing and more). I got so tired of it that I pushed it into the tranny bell housing, I just didn't care wherever happen. So, I bought the new sensor from NAPA Auto Parts and it didn't fit in the port. The sensor was too big to fit the port, so with no other way around it I had to shave some material off. I could have had it done faster by pulling the transmission down so I could have enough room to work on it, but I didn't. Lesson learned. The reason for changing the sensor was because after searching the web for a random stall issue and the problem didn't go away. So now I'm stuck. It doesn't always crank, and when it does it stalls immediately. I noticed by turning the key on to crank position, it will crank only if I leave my hand on the key in the cranking position. The starter will make a clicking sound about 5-6x and it will engage but will immediately stall. So I need it to run to make sure the new sensor I installed is working properly. I'll let you guys know if I get it to run.  

AmericanVan said: .... So, I bought the new sensor from NAPA Auto Parts and it didn't fit in the port. The sensor was too big to fit the port, so with no other way around it I had to shave some material off. .... Click to expand...

Yes, I did double check the part# online and they matched. I read in a different post somebody mentioned that Autozone's sensor fit just perfect but I'm a NAPA guy. I had to file off the port to make it fit too so I trimmed 50% of the plastic. I crossed my fingers for it to fire up perfect and it did! It hasn't stalled so far and living in the "Frozen Tundra", I'm afraid to take it for a test drive.  

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• Voyager 4th Generation (2001-2007)

Crankshaft Sensor

Asked by HarrytB , October 21, 2019

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I've got a Chrysler Voyager 2.4 which has recently had the engine light come on.  Its difficult to start and misfires above 2200 rpm.

Plugged an ODB reader into it and it picks up P0335 - which relates to the Crankshaft sensor circuit A.

So, replaced the sensor (twice)

Using a multimeter:

• tested power cable (ignition on) - producing 5 volts from PCM
• tested signal cable - producing 5 volts, so magnet is engaged in sensor.
• tested continuity of ground - all good.
• tested continuity of live, signal and ground back to the PCM - all good, no cross circuit to ground on any wires.
• Camshaft sensor and Crankshaft sensor share common live - continuity is all good there.

If i rotate the Crankshaft using a socket drive slowly and monitor the signal cable from the sensor I'm not seeing a drop in voltage at all - so is my Crankshaft ring knackered - or am i simply turning it to fast ?

Any ideas gratefully received.

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Hi there, take it engine shut down here for testing. 5v coming into feed the sensor via power cable that's right in all scenarios. Its this 5v output from sensor at signal side that's questionable. 1 to 2 volts yes. What's the signal voltage when engine running though ?

I'll get the meter On it tomorrow when I get back from work. Voltage between signal and ground.

If I remove the sensor and turn the crank with a socket+handle, should I be able to feel any "gear teeth" using a small screwdriver? Can't see in there unfortunately.

Well all your problems relates to Crank sensor as you predicted. Codes P0355 to P0359 relate. Difficult to start because ECU not getting proper signal from sensor. Misfires/rough running/not going over 2200rpm due to spark timing not being controlled by ECU via sensor signal yet again.

But you have changed it twice, need check wiring or proper Chrysler part. I'm thinking secondhand one to see what happens.

Hi all not too happy about my answer and knowledge on how a crank angle sensor works. Well till now I have just excepted it works if engines running ok. It doesn't work if faults relate to Crank Sensor. Or could it be something else.

So what have we got from Harry, well a hellafa lot to bin the sensor. Difficulty starting, Missfiring and help ma bob P0355 sensor.

Replaced twice, still same so your jaw hits the deck and car shunted to back of garage. Forget it.

Nope Harry plods on with some tests but its a waste of time as you need an Ocilliscope, this is reason I'm back with this thread.

He was right input is 5v and output is 5v but its a square wave formation output with its switching frequency dependent on the crankshaft speed..I'll try get picture on here from pico tomorrow.

Oh Harry you got anything to tell us about your car.

Oh thought you guys would have filled this thread. Got we bit busy at end here. Three pictures to show what happens with Crank Censor. Hope this comes out ok..

Gordy, always found the allpar site good for my clue-stick-slap, but not CRD or even Chrysler but all brands are the same parent.

One - https://www.allpar.com/forums/threads/removing-the-crankshaft-position-sensor.143426/

Two - https://www.allpar.com/index.php

Best of luck lad.

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• Testing The Crankshaft Position Sensor (1996-2002 2.4L Caravan, Grand Caravan, Voyager, Grand Voyager)
• By: Abraham Torres-Arredondo
• Created: 27 February 2020
• Updated: 19 February 2024
• Articl Id: 930

This tutorial will help you test the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor on the 1996-2002 2.4L Chrysler, Dodge, and Plymouth mini-vans.

The crankshaft position sensor test I'm gonna' show you is done with a multimeter. With its test result you'll be able to conclude if the crankshaft position sensor is good or bad.

Contents of this tutorial:

• Symptoms Of A Bad Crankshaft Position Sensor .
• What Tools Do I Need To Test The Crankshaft Position Sensor .
• Where To Buy The Crankshaft Position Sensor And Save .
• How The Crankshaft Position Sensor Works .
• TEST 1: Testing The CKP Signal With A Multimeter .
• TEST 2: Making Sure The CKP Sensor Is Getting Power .
• TEST 3: Making Sure The CKP Sensor Is Getting Ground .

APPLIES TO: This tutorial applies to the following mini-vans equipped with the 2.4L engine:

• 2.4L Chrysler Voyager: 2001, 2002.
• 2.4L Dodge Caravan: 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002.
• 2.4L Dodge Grand Caravan: 1996, 1997.
• 2.4L Plymouth Grand Voyager: 1996, 1997.
• 2.4L Plymouth Voyager: 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000.

Symptoms Of A Bad Crankshaft Position Sensor

When the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor fails in your mini-van, the engine is not going to start. It will 'crank but not start'.

The fuel injection computer is designed to set a crankshaft position sensor diagnostic trouble code (DTC) when the sensor fails. If the computer does set one, you'll see the following trouble code:

• P0320: No Crank Reference Signal At PCM.

The two most important symptoms to look for, when the CKP sensor fails, are: no spark from all of the spark plug wires and no fuel injector pulses from all of the fuel injector connectors (as tested by a Noid light).

If you have spark, even if it's just from one spark plug wire, the crankshaft position sensor is not bad.

Tools You'll Need To Test CKP Sensor

You don't need any expensive tools to test the crankshaft position sensor on your 2.4L equipped mini-van. As a matter of fact, you don't even need a scan tool to test it.

Tools you'll need to test the crankshaft position sensor on your mini-van:

• You can use a digital multimeter or an analog multimeter although the digital one is the preferred one.
• If you don't have a multimeter or need to upgrade yours, check out my recommendation here: Buying A Digital Multimeter For Automotive Diagnostic Testing (at: easyautodiagnostics.com ).
• Jack stands
• 1/2 inch ratchet wrench and the necessary sockets to turn the crank pulley.

As you can see, the tools you'll need won't break the bank and more than likely you already own most of them.

Where To Buy The CKP Sensor And Save

The crankshaft position sensor is not an expensive component. The following links will help you comparison shop for the crankshaft position sensor and hopefully save you a few bucks on its purchase:

Not sure if the above crank position sensor fit your particular Dodge (Chrysler/Plymouth) mini-van? Don't worry, once you get to the site, they'll make sure it fits by asking you the specifics of your vehicle. If the above don't fit, they'll find the right one for you.

How The CKP Sensor Works

The crankshaft position sensor, on your mini-van, is a Hall Effect sensor with 3 wires coming out of its electrical connector.

Since the crankshaft position sensor is a Hall Effect type sensor, it produces an ON/OFF DC voltage signal that can be easily observed with:

• A multimeter.
• An oscilloscope.
• Or an LED Light.

This also means that there is no crankshaft position sensor resistance test to see if the sensor is bad or not. Only the 2 wire reluctor type crankshaft position sensor can be resistance tested.

As you turn the key and crank the engine, each one of the three wires that connect to the crankshaft position sensor have a specific job to do:

• I've labeled this wire with the number 3 in the photo above.
• I've labeled this wire with the number 2 .
• I've labeled this wire with the number 1 .
• The PCM uses the crank signal to activate the Auto Shut Down (ASD) Relay.
• The fuel pump relay and thus the fuel pump.
• The fuel injectors.
• The ignition coil pack and thus spark to each engine cylinder.
• Therefore, the crankshaft position sensor (and its signal) is critical for the engine to start.

The most important thing to know, is that if the crankshaft position sensor goes bad, your Chrysler (or Dodge or Plymouth) mini-van will crank but not start due to a lack of spark and fuel injection.

• How To Test The TPS (1998-2000 2.4L Dodge, Plymouth Mini-Van)
• How To Test The MAP Sensor (1996-2000 2.4L Dodge, Plymouth Mini-Van)
• Testing Engine Compression (1996-2007 2.4L Caravan, Grand Caravan, Voyager, Grand Voyager)
• How To Test For A Blown Head Gasket (1996-2007 2.4L Caravan, Grand Caravan, Voyager, Grand Voyager)

Applies To:

Chrysler Vehicles:

Dodge Vehicles:

• 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002

Plymouth Vehicles:

• 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000