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COVID-19: travel health notice for all travellers

Lebanon travel advice

Latest updates: Editorial change

Last updated: August 7, 2024 15:55 ET

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Safety and security, entry and exit requirements, laws and culture, natural disasters and climate, lebanon - avoid all travel.

The security situation can deteriorate further without warning.

If the armed conflict intensifies it could impact your ability to depart the country by commercial means. Some airlines have already temporarily suspended their service to Beirut Rafic Hariri International Airport. Additional travel disruptions are likely, including airspace closures and flight cancellations and diversions.

You should not rely on the Government of Canada for assisted departure or evacuation. Since October 2023, the Government of Canada has advised Canadians to leave Lebanon while commercial options remain available.

In the event of an evacuation, Government of Canada assisted departures will only be available to Canadian citizens and permanent residents in Lebanon, as well as their accompanying spouse and dependent children. All travellers will require valid travel documents for their assisted departure. The required onward travel to Canada from a safe third location will be at your own expense.

Make sure your travel documents and those of your spouse and children are up to date and secure at all times.

You should leave by commercial means now, if you can do so safely.

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Security situation in Beirut and southern Lebanon

The situation in Lebanon remains volatile and unpredictable due to violent and intensifying clashes along the border with Israel, including daily rocket and missile fire as well as air strikes. On July 30, 2024, explosions caused by suspected drone strikes occurred in the Haret Hreik area of Beirut, resulting in casualties. The attacks are related to the ongoing conflict in the region and could lead to serious escalation of hostilities in Lebanon.

Your safety and security could be at risk. If you intend to travel to Lebanon despite the advisory, you should :

• prepare to shelter in place for a long period of time
• consult local authorities and/or experienced local partners
• plan a secure route
• monitor the security situation where you are travelling

Emergency situations may require you to stock up on food, water and medications.

If you are in Lebanon, including in Beirut:

• be extremely vigilant and aware of your surroundings
• book a flight to leave the country now, if you can do so safely
• expect a heightened security presence
• carry identification documents at all times
• avoid the area along the borders with Israel and Syria
• make sure your passport and travel documents are up-to-date, including those of your family
• register and update your contact information through the Registration of Canadians Abroad service and encourage other Canadian citizens in Lebanon to do so

Security situation

The security situation is precarious in Lebanon. Large-scale protests in response to the situation in Israel, the West Bank and the Gaza Strip have lead to civil unrest, particularly in Beirut. Protestors have targeted foreign embassies and international organizations.

The country faces a major economic crisis, resulting in severe shortages of basic necessities including medicines and fuel. Tensions and altercations between individuals waiting at gas stations and pharmacies have occurred outside Beirut. The economic instability has also affected the delivery of public services, including healthcare.

The crime rate is on the rise. Decreasing resources within security forces affects law enforcement capabilities.

Pre-existing sectarian tensions, coupled with the spillover of the conflict in Syria, are also playing a destabilizing role in the country.

2SLGBTQI+ persons

2SLGBTQI+ persons are discriminated against based on their sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression or sex characteristics. Incitement to violence and attacks on 2SLGBTQI+ persons occur. On August 23, 2023, members of an organized group stormed a queer-friendly bar in Beirut and physically attacked clients.

There are reports of individuals using popular dating apps and websites to threaten, extort and blackmail 2SLGBTQI+ persons.

• Beware of people who show a keen interest online
• You could be the victim of a scam if you agree to meet with an online acquaintance
• Always meet new acquaintances in a secure and familiar location
• Inviting a stranger to your hotel room or apartment can be risky

Travel and your sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression and sex characteristics

Areas South of Litani River

The United Nations Interim Force in Lebanon (UNIFIL) maintains additional peacekeepers south of the Litani River near the border with Israel due to the security situation. This region remains highly militarized and volatile. Rocket launches and border incidents resulting in casualties occasionally occur, provoking retaliatory attacks in this region and elsewhere in Lebanon.

Forces other than the Lebanese authorities exert significant control over parts of this region. Access restrictions may delay or prevent Canadian officials from providing assistance to citizens in these areas.

The international border between Lebanon and Israel is not entirely defined. UNIFIL enforces the Blue Line, which separates the two countries. Areas adjacent to the Blue Line are often heavily mined. The areas of Ghajar, Kfar Shouba Hills and Shebaa Farms are inaccessible from Lebanon. The border with Israel is closed.

Avoid all travel south of the Litani River, especially near the border with Israel due to ongoing military activity.

If you are travelling to the city of Tyre, use only the main coastal highway. Travel permits from Lebanese authorities and/or UNIFIL may be required to enter areas south of the Litani River that border Israel.

Southern Suburbs of Beirut

Armed groups are present in large parts of Beirut’s southern suburbs. These neighbourhoods are targets for organized crime and terrorist attacks causing deaths and injuries. Tactics used by terrorists include car bombing, suicide bombing and rocket fire. There is also a risk of kidnapping and you could be caught in violent clashes between armed groups.

North Lebanon

While Lebanese security forces have conducted operations in northern Lebanon to improve the security situation, some parts of the region remain unstable. Some of these areas have experienced inter-communal violence that can spread to outlying areas. Heavy weapons fire (machine guns, grenades and rocket-propelled grenades), sniper activity and terrorist incidents have occurred.

Extremist groups have sought refuge in northern Lebanon, including throughout Akkar District.

Border region with Syria

The security situation in regions bordering Syria has deteriorated as a result of the ongoing conflict. Armed groups as well as the Lebanese and Syrian military have carried out operations resulting in casualties. Tensions between armed groups have also increased in border areas, resulting in violent clashes and kidnappings.

The border is not always clearly marked.

North Eastern Bekaa Valley

The security situation in the North Eastern Bekaa Valley is volatile and there is an ongoing risk of sporadic violence, organized crime, and kidnapping.

Palestinian refugee camps

The security situation in Palestinian refugee camps and surrounding areas remains tense and unpredictable. Violence is common in some camps—particularly Ain el Helweh, near Saida, and Beddawi, near Tripoli.

Refugee camps are often located close to urban centres and are not always visibly demarcated. Exercise caution and remain aware of your whereabouts at all times in order to avoid unknowingly entering a camp. Palestinian authorities control the security in most camps and may delay or refuse to grant Canadian officials access to Canadian in these areas.

There’s a threat of terrorism. Attacks can occur at any time and any place in Lebanon.

Targets could include:

• government buildings, military installations and schools
• places of worship
• airports and other transportation hubs and networks
• public areas such as tourist attractions, restaurants, bars, coffee shops, shopping centres, markets, hotels and other sites frequented by foreigners

Local authorities are on a high state of alert and carry out anti-terrorism operations across the country to prevent attacks. The potential for attacks and a rapid deterioration of the security situation remains across the country, including in Beirut.

There is a significant presence of terrorist groups in several areas of southern Lebanon, including in the southern suburbs of Beirut and the northern Bekaa Valley. Armed actors other than Lebanese authorities exert a large amount of control in some areas, and they may delay or prevent Canadian officials from assisting Canadians in the region.

Politically-motivated attacks also remain likely. A number of such attacks have taken place in the southern suburbs of Beirut.

Always be aware of your surroundings when in public places. Be particularly vigilant during sporting events, religious holidays and other public celebrations. Terrorists may use such occasions to mount attacks.

Lebanon is experiencing chronic fuel shortages. You may have some difficulties securing fuel.

There are frequent, prolonged and unpredictable closures of fuel stations. Long lineups have formed at gas stations, creating road blockades which have led to several accidents. Arguments and violent altercations, sometimes involving use of weapons have also occurred. Decrease in fuel quality has also been reported causing damages to vehicles.

Fuel and diesel shortages are also impacting other sectors such as:

• telecommunication, including internet
• water and waste collection
• shops, cafes and restaurants

The difficulty to access fuel and diesel has led to frequent unplanned closures of power generators and interruptions in the delivery of basic commodities such as water, flour, and gas.

Medicine and medical supplies

There are shortages of medicine and medical supplies. When available, these may be very costly. Such shortages have also significantly affected the health care sector, with many private hospitals closing or reducing their services.

Ensure that your emergency kit is complete.

Exchange rates and foreign currency

In recent months, the value of the Lebanese Pound has depreciated quickly against the US Dollar. As a result, there is a high inflation on prices of most goods and services. The economic situation could affect your ability to pay for goods and services.

There is also a severe shortage of foreign currency. It is very difficult to access US Dollars locally. Change in foreign currency may also not be available. While ATMs are generally stocked with Lebanese Pounds, there may be limits on daily withdrawals imposed by certain banks.

Many stores and companies no longer accept credit/debit cards.

• Plan accordingly
• Ensure that you have access to adequate cash
• Avoid carrying large sums of cash on yourself and keep foreign currency out of sight

Power disruptions

Power outages and rationing of electricity are common in many parts of the country, including in Beirut. They may affect critical infrastructure, such as hospitals. They could also affect other essential services such as food production and distribution.

Other services are often disrupted during such events, including:

• public water supply
• communications, mainly cellular telephone and Internet

Demonstrations

The deterioration of the security environment and the political uncertainty may lead to an increase in civil unrest at any time. Planned and spontaneous demonstrations related to the domestic and regional situations regularly occur in Lebanon, particularly in Beirut.

Even peaceful demonstrations can turn violent at any time. They can also lead to disruptions to traffic and public transportation.

The road to Beirut–Rafic Hariri International Airport is subject to sporadic closures, due to various factors including clashes between various local groups. Access to the airport may be unavailable for extended periods when the security situation deteriorates.

• Avoid all areas where demonstrations and large gatherings are taking place
• Allow extra time to get to and from the airport
• Follow the instructions of local authorities
• Monitor local media for information on ongoing demonstrations

Mass gatherings (large-scale events)

Kidnappings have occurred in the border areas with Syria, in the Bekaa Valley and could happen in other parts of Lebanon. In the southern suburbs of Beirut, foreigners and residents have been held against their will. Although most incidents of kidnapping typically involve Lebanese residents, foreigners have also been targeted. Maintain a high level of vigilance at all times.

Landmines and unexploded ordnance continue to pose a threat in some parts of the country, including south of the Litani River and near the northeastern border region.

• Look for posted landmine warnings
• Stay on paved roads
• Avoid walking or hiking in these areas.

Petty crime has significantly increased since 2020. Purse snatching, pick pocketing, car thefts, and residential break-ins, occur regularly.

There are reports of thefts at Beirut’s international airport. Criminals have stolen goods from luggage, looking especially for medications.

• Be vigilant in all crowded locations
• Don’t carry large sums of money
• Ensure that your personal belongings, including your passport and other travel documents, are secure at all times

Violent crime and sexual assault have also increased. Shooting incidents, especially at gas stations, have led to injuries and deaths of civilians.

There is a highly visible security presence throughout the country. 

• Exercise vigilance and appropriate safety precautions
• Carry personal documentation with you and follow the instructions of Lebanese security authorities

Road safety

Congestion and aggressive driving are serious problems throughout the country. Drivers often don’t respect the rules of the road, and traffic laws are not consistently enforced. Be cautious when crossing streets, as drivers don’t always give pedestrians and cyclists the right of way.

Road accidents and serious road rage incidents causing injury or death are common in Lebanon.

Road lighting is sporadic and unreliable in urban areas and virtually non-existent in rural areas. At night, many drivers use their high beams exclusively, often creating a serious hazard due to blinding glare. Increased power cuts have led to interruptions of traffic lights in the city centre, including at major intersections.

Public transportation

Avoid public transportation, which is crowded, unsafe and unreliable.

Foreigners using shared transportation have been victims of armed robbery, either by the driver or other passengers. Most major hotel chains will have an agreement with a reputable taxi company and can arrange the taxi for you.

• Don’t use shared or “service” taxis.
• Always pre-arrange transportation with a safe and reliable taxi company.
• Don’t hail taxis off the street and avoid using unmarked taxi services.

We do not make assessments on the compliance of foreign domestic airlines with international safety standards.

Information about foreign domestic airlines

Every country or territory decides who can enter or exit through its borders. The Government of Canada cannot intervene on your behalf if you do not meet your destination’s entry or exit requirements.

We have obtained the information on this page from the Lebanese authorities. It can, however, change at any time.

Verify this information with the  Foreign Representatives in Canada .

Entry requirements vary depending on the type of passport you use for travel.

Before you travel, check with your transportation company about passport requirements. Its rules on passport validity may be more stringent than the country’s entry rules.

Regular Canadian passport

Your passport must be valid for at least 6 months beyond the date you expect to leave Lebanon.

Passport for official travel

Different entry rules may apply.

Official travel

Passport with “X” gender identifier

While the Government of Canada issues passports with an “X” gender identifier, it cannot guarantee your entry or transit through other countries. You might face entry restrictions in countries that do not recognize the “X” gender identifier. Before you leave, check with the closest foreign representative for your destination.

Other travel documents

Different entry rules may apply when travelling with a temporary passport or an emergency travel document. Before you leave, check with the closest foreign representative for your destination.

Useful links

• Foreign Representatives in Canada
• Canadian passports

Tourist visa: required Student visa: required Work visa: required Business visa: required

As a Canadian citizen, you must obtain a visa to visit Lebanon. Ensure you apply for the proper type of visa for the specific purpose of your trip. Visas are available at Lebanese diplomatic missions abroad or at any port of entry into Lebanon.

Make sure your visa is valid for the duration of your stay. An expired entry visa must be extended by Lebanese authorities or you will not be allowed to leave the country.

Entry stamp

Your passport must show a Lebanese entry stamp in order to exit the country. If you acquire a new passport while in Lebanon, you must present your old passport containing proof of entry to authorities upon departure.

Travel bans

Local authorities may issue travel bans that won’t allow you to enter or exit Lebanon, regardless of your nationality.

You may also be denied re-entry to Lebanon if you left Lebanon as a refugee. To ensure that you are not subject to a travel ban to re-enter Lebanon, contact the Lebanese authorities prior to your departure to Lebanon

Regional travel

Travel to or from Israel is illegal in Lebanon. You may be refused entry into Lebanon if your passport bears an Israeli visa, an Israeli border stamp, or an Egyptian or Jordanian border stamp issued by an office bordering Israel, as such a stamp could indicate you visited Israel prior to visiting Lebanon.

South of the Litani River

Travel permits from Lebanese authorities and/or UNIFIL may be required to enter areas south of the Litani River bordering Israel.

• Children and travel

Children travelling with only one parent may be required to provide an authorization letter from the other parent to exit Lebanon.

Travelling with children

Yellow fever

Learn about potential entry requirements related to yellow fever (vaccines section).

Relevant Travel Health Notices

• Global Measles Notice - 13 March, 2024
• COVID-19 and International Travel - 13 March, 2024

This section contains information on possible health risks and restrictions regularly found or ongoing in the destination. Follow this advice to lower your risk of becoming ill while travelling. Not all risks are listed below.

Consult a health care professional or visit a travel health clinic preferably 6 weeks before you travel to get personalized health advice and recommendations.

Routine vaccines

Be sure that your  routine vaccinations , as per your province or territory , are up-to-date before travelling, regardless of your destination.

Some of these vaccinations include measles-mumps-rubella (MMR), diphtheria, tetanus, pertussis, polio, varicella (chickenpox), influenza and others.

Pre-travel vaccines and medications

You may be at risk for preventable diseases while travelling in this destination. Talk to a travel health professional about which medications or vaccines may be right for you, based on your destination and itinerary. 

Yellow fever is a disease caused by a flavivirus from the bite of an infected mosquito.

Travellers get vaccinated either because it is required to enter a country or because it is recommended for their protection.

• There is no risk of yellow fever in this country.

Country Entry Requirement*

• Proof of vaccination is not required to enter this country.

Recommendation

• Vaccination is not recommended.

* It is important to note that country entry requirements may not reflect your risk of yellow fever at your destination. It is recommended that you contact the nearest diplomatic or consular office of the destination(s) you will be visiting to verify any additional entry requirements.

About Yellow Fever

Yellow Fever Vaccination Centres in Canada

There is a risk of hepatitis A in this destination. It is a disease of the liver. People can get hepatitis A if they ingest contaminated food or water, eat foods prepared by an infectious person, or if they have close physical contact (such as oral-anal sex) with an infectious person, although casual contact among people does not spread the virus.

Practise  safe food and water precautions and wash your hands often. Vaccination is recommended for all travellers to areas where hepatitis A is present.

Measles is a highly contagious viral disease. It can spread quickly from person to person by direct contact and through droplets in the air.

Anyone who is not protected against measles is at risk of being infected with it when travelling internationally.

Regardless of where you are going, talk to a health care professional before travelling to make sure you are fully protected against measles.

  Hepatitis B is a risk in every destination. It is a viral liver disease that is easily transmitted from one person to another through exposure to blood and body fluids containing the hepatitis B virus.  Travellers who may be exposed to blood or other bodily fluids (e.g., through sexual contact, medical treatment, sharing needles, tattooing, acupuncture or occupational exposure) are at higher risk of getting hepatitis B.

Hepatitis B vaccination is recommended for all travellers. Prevent hepatitis B infection by practicing safe sex, only using new and sterile drug equipment, and only getting tattoos and piercings in settings that follow public health regulations and standards.

 The best way to protect yourself from seasonal influenza (flu) is to get vaccinated every year. Get the flu shot at least 2 weeks before travelling.  

 The flu occurs worldwide. 

•  In the Northern Hemisphere, the flu season usually runs from November to   April.
•  In the Southern Hemisphere, the flu season usually runs between April and   October.
•  In the tropics, there is flu activity year round. 

The flu vaccine available in one hemisphere may only offer partial protection against the flu in the other hemisphere.

The flu virus spreads from person to person when they cough or sneeze or by touching objects and surfaces that have been contaminated with the virus. Clean your hands often and wear a mask if you have a fever or respiratory symptoms.

Coronavirus disease (COVID-19) is an infectious viral disease. It can spread from person to person by direct contact and through droplets in the air.

It is recommended that all eligible travellers complete a COVID-19 vaccine series along with any additional recommended doses in Canada before travelling. Evidence shows that vaccines are very effective at preventing severe illness, hospitalization and death from COVID-19. While vaccination provides better protection against serious illness, you may still be at risk of infection from the virus that causes COVID-19. Anyone who has not completed a vaccine series is at increased risk of being infected with the virus that causes COVID-19 and is at greater risk for severe disease when travelling internationally.

Before travelling, verify your destination’s COVID-19 vaccination entry/exit requirements. Regardless of where you are going, talk to a health care professional before travelling to make sure you are adequately protected against COVID-19.

In this destination, rabies is commonly carried by dogs and some wildlife, including bats. Rabies is a deadly disease that spreads to humans primarily through bites or scratches from an infected animal. While travelling, take precautions , including keeping your distance from animals (including free-roaming dogs), and closely supervising children.

If you are bitten or scratched by a dog or other animal while travelling, immediately wash the wound with soap and clean water and see a health care professional. In this destination, rabies treatment may be limited or may not be available, therefore you may need to return to Canada for treatment.  

Before travel, discuss rabies vaccination with a health care professional. It may be recommended for travellers who are at high risk of exposure (e.g., occupational risk such as veterinarians and wildlife workers, children, adventure travellers and spelunkers, and others in close contact with animals). 

Safe food and water precautions

Many illnesses can be caused by eating food or drinking beverages contaminated by bacteria, parasites, toxins, or viruses, or by swimming or bathing in contaminated water.

• Learn more about food and water precautions to take to avoid getting sick by visiting our eat and drink safely abroad page. Remember: Boil it, cook it, peel it, or leave it!
• Avoid getting water into your eyes, mouth or nose when swimming or participating in activities in freshwater (streams, canals, lakes), particularly after flooding or heavy rain. Water may look clean but could still be polluted or contaminated.
• Avoid inhaling or swallowing water while bathing, showering, or swimming in pools or hot tubs. 

Travellers' diarrhea is the most common illness affecting travellers. It is spread from eating or drinking contaminated food or water.

Risk of developing travellers' diarrhea increases when travelling in regions with poor standards of hygiene and sanitation. Practise safe food and water precautions.

The most important treatment for travellers' diarrhea is rehydration (drinking lots of fluids). Carry oral rehydration salts when travelling.

Typhoid   is a bacterial infection spread by contaminated food or water. Risk is higher among children, travellers going to rural areas, travellers visiting friends and relatives or those travelling for a long period of time.

Travellers visiting regions with a risk of typhoid, especially those exposed to places with poor sanitation, should speak to a health care professional about vaccination.  

Cholera is a risk in parts of this country. Most travellers are at very low risk.

To protect against cholera, all travellers should practise safe food and water precautions .

Travellers at higher risk of getting cholera include those:

• visiting, working or living in areas with limited access to safe food, water and proper sanitation
• visiting areas where outbreaks are occurring

Vaccination may be recommended for high-risk travellers, and should be discussed with a health care professional.

Insect bite prevention

Many diseases are spread by the bites of infected insects such as mosquitoes, ticks, fleas or flies. When travelling to areas where infected insects may be present:

• Use insect repellent (bug spray) on exposed skin
• Cover up with light-coloured, loose clothes made of tightly woven materials such as nylon or polyester
• Minimize exposure to insects
• Use mosquito netting when sleeping outdoors or in buildings that are not fully enclosed

To learn more about how you can reduce your risk of infection and disease caused by bites, both at home and abroad, visit our insect bite prevention page.

Find out what types of insects are present where you’re travelling, when they’re most active, and the symptoms of the diseases they spread.

Animal precautions

Some infections, such as rabies and influenza, can be shared between humans and animals. Certain types of activities may increase your chance of contact with animals, such as travelling in rural or forested areas, camping, hiking, and visiting wet markets (places where live animals are slaughtered and sold) or caves.

Travellers are cautioned to avoid contact with animals, including dogs, livestock (pigs, cows), monkeys, snakes, rodents, birds, and bats, and to avoid eating undercooked wild game.

Closely supervise children, as they are more likely to come in contact with animals.

Cases of Middle East respiratory syndrome (MERS) have been reported in this destination. The risk to travellers is low; MERS is primarily spread through contact with camels or camel-based products (raw milk, meat, urine). It can also spread through close contact, such as when caring for an infected person. 

Avoid contact with animals (especially camels), camel-based products, and wash your hands frequently.

Prevention of Middle East respiratory syndrome (MERS)

MERS symptoms range from mild and flu-like to more severe pneumonia-like symptoms, and can result in death.

There is no vaccine or medication that protects against MERS.

Person-to-person infections

Stay home if you’re sick and practise proper cough and sneeze etiquette , which includes coughing or sneezing into a tissue or the bend of your arm, not your hand. Reduce your risk of colds, the flu and other illnesses by:

•   washing your hands often
• avoiding or limiting the amount of time spent in closed spaces, crowded places, or at large-scale events (concerts, sporting events, rallies)
• avoiding close physical contact with people who may be showing symptoms of illness 

Sexually transmitted infections (STIs) , HIV , and mpox are spread through blood and bodily fluids; use condoms, practise safe sex, and limit your number of sexual partners. Check with your local public health authority pre-travel to determine your eligibility for mpox vaccine.  

Medical services and facilities

The medical services and supplies in Lebanon are being affected by the economic crisis and the fuel shortages. As such :

• air conditioning and lighting may be turned off
• non-essential medical treatment may be cancelled
• some sections of hospitals may have reduced capacity or be closed
• hospitals may refuse to admit patients due to the lack of space or supplies

Medical care facilities could be difficult to access and services can be expensive. Private facilities may not have access to basic resources and may be forced to close or reduce their services, increasing the pressures on the public health system.

Payment in advance is almost always required in private health care facilities.

Make sure you get travel insurance that includes coverage for medical evacuation and hospital stays.

Health and safety outside Canada

Keep in Mind...

The decision to travel is the sole responsibility of the traveller. The traveller is also responsible for his or her own personal safety.

Be prepared. Do not expect medical services to be the same as in Canada. Pack a   travel health kit , especially if you will be travelling away from major city centres.

You must abide by local laws.

Learn about what you should do and how we can help if you are arrested or detained abroad .

Photography

It is prohibited to photograph or videotape government buildings or military personnel, equipment and installations.

Avoid photographing individuals without their permission.

Penalties for possession, use or trafficking of illegal drugs are severe. Convicted offenders can expect jail sentences and heavy fines.

Individuals charged with drug offences can expect to remain in jail and to be denied bail throughout the judicial process. This process often takes years.

Drugs, alcohol and travel

Dress and behaviour

The dress code in Lebanon is more relaxed than most Middle Eastern countries.

To avoid offending local sensitivities:

• dress conservatively
• behave discreetly
• respect religious and social traditions

Ensure your travel insurance is valid for driving in Lebanon.

You must carry an international driving permit.

International Driving Permit

In 2025, the lunar month of Ramadan is expected to begin on or around February 28.

In public, between sunrise and sunset, be discreet when:

Lebanese law criminalizes sexual acts ''contradicting the laws of nature’’ and a ''man disguising as a woman.’’ These provisions may be interpreted broadly to arrest, detain and prosecute 2SLGBTQI+ persons. If you are convicted, you could face imprisonment.

Authorities regularly ban peaceful gatherings and events related to 2SLGBTQI+ issues.

2SLGBTQI+ persons should carefully consider the risks of travelling to Lebanon.

Dual citizenship

Dual citizenship is legally recognized in Lebanon. However, local authorities will treat dual Canadian-Lebanese citizens as Lebanese nationals.

If local authorities consider you a citizen of Lebanon, they may refuse to grant you access to Canadian consular services. This will prevent us from providing you with those services.

Dual citizens

Family law matters in Lebanon, including child custody and divorce-related decisions, are settled according to local religious laws.

Canadian custody documents, including Canadian court orders pertaining to custody, may not be automatically recognized or enforceable in Lebanon. 

Relatives frequently place travel bans on Canadians. If you are involved in custody or other family disputes, consult a lawyer for advice on how religious law in Lebanon may affect your family situation.

International Child Abduction

The Hague Convention on the Civil Aspects of International Child Abduction is an international treaty. It can help parents with the return of children who have been removed to or retained in certain countries in violation of custody rights. It does not apply between Canada and Lebanon.

If your child was wrongfully taken to, or is being held in Lebanon by an abducting parent:

• act as quickly as you can
• consult a lawyer in Canada and in Lebanon to explore all the legal options for the return of your child
• report the situation to the nearest Canadian government office abroad or to the Vulnerable Children's Consular Unit at Global Affairs Canada by calling the Emergency Watch and Response Centre

If your child was removed from a country other than Canada, consult a lawyer to determine if The Hague Convention applies.

Be aware that Canadian consular officials cannot interfere in private legal matters or in another country's judicial affairs.

• International Child Abductions: A guide for affected parents
• Canadian embassies and consulates by destination
• Request emergency assistance

The currency is the Lebanese pound (LBP).

There is also a severe shortage of foreign currency. It is very difficult to access US Dollars locally. Change in foreign currency may not be available. While ATMs are generally stocked with Lebanese Pounds, there may be limits on daily withdrawals imposed by certain banks.

Traveller’s cheques are not accepted and will not be changed by local financial institutions.

Lebanon is located in a seismic zone. There have been several minor earthquakes in recent years.

In the winter months, mountain roads, including the main Beirut–Damascus highway, may be temporarily blocked or become impassable due to heavy snowfall. Flash floods can occur, rendering roads temporarily dangerous or impracticable.

Local services

In case of emergency, dial:

• police: 112
• medical assistance: 140
• firefighters: 175

Consular assistance

For emergency consular assistance, call the Embassy of Canada in Beirut and follow the instructions. At any time, you may also contact the Emergency Watch and Response Centre in Ottawa.

The decision to travel is your choice and you are responsible for your personal safety abroad. We take the safety and security of Canadians abroad very seriously and provide credible and timely information in our Travel Advice to enable you to make well-informed decisions regarding your travel abroad.

The content on this page is provided for information only. While we make every effort to give you correct information, it is provided on an "as is" basis without warranty of any kind, expressed or implied. The Government of Canada does not assume responsibility and will not be liable for any damages in connection to the information provided.

If you need consular assistance while abroad, we will make every effort to help you. However, there may be constraints that will limit the ability of the Government of Canada to provide services.

Learn more about consular services .

Risk Levels

  take normal security precautions.

Take similar precautions to those you would take in Canada.

  Exercise a high degree of caution

There are certain safety and security concerns or the situation could change quickly. Be very cautious at all times, monitor local media and follow the instructions of local authorities.

IMPORTANT: The two levels below are official Government of Canada Travel Advisories and are issued when the safety and security of Canadians travelling or living in the country or region may be at risk.

  Avoid non-essential travel

Your safety and security could be at risk. You should think about your need to travel to this country, territory or region based on family or business requirements, knowledge of or familiarity with the region, and other factors. If you are already there, think about whether you really need to be there. If you do not need to be there, you should think about leaving.

  Avoid all travel

You should not travel to this country, territory or region. Your personal safety and security are at great risk. If you are already there, you should think about leaving if it is safe to do so.

Search Smartraveller

Latest update

We now advise:

Do not travel to Lebanon due to the volatile security situation and the risk of the security situation deteriorating further.

Lebanon (PDF 828.57 KB)

The Middle East (PDF 1.45 MB)

Local emergency contacts

Fire and rescue services, medical emergencies, advice levels.

Do not travel to Lebanon.

Do not travel  to Lebanon due to the volatile security situation and the risk of the security situation deteriorating further.

See Safety .

We continue to advise do not travel to Lebanon due to the volatile security situation and the risk of the security situation deteriorating further.

• Australians in Lebanon should leave immediately while commercial flights remain available. The security situation could deteriorate rapidly throughout Lebanon with little or no notice.
• Some airlines have postponed or cancelled some flights. Further flight cancellations and disruptions could occur with little or no notice.
• Beirut airport could close at short notice and you may be unable to leave for an extended period. Airlines may cancel flights or set high ticket prices for any remaining flights. There may also be other travel disruptions. 
• If the security situation deteriorates further, the Australian Government may not be able to assist you to leave in such circumstances. 
• If you choose not to leave while commercial flights are operating, be prepared to shelter in place for an extended period. Make sure you have enough supplies including food, water, medicine, radio, torches and batteries. Know where your identity documents are, including your passport. 
• If you're an Australian citizen or permanent resident in Lebanon, you should register on  DFAT's crisis registration portal.  We’ll be contacting registered Australians directly with important updates.
• Read our  Information for Australians in Lebanon , (also available in  Arabic ), for advice on what to do if you're currently there.
• Ensure your travel documents are up to date. Ensure you have passports for children born in Lebanon and current passports for all family members travelling with you. 
• Daily military action has increased in southern Lebanon, including rocket and missile fire, as well as airstrikes. The conflict could continue to escalate quickly or spread to other areas in Lebanon, including Beirut, with little notice. This could affect your ability to move to safety. Avoid areas where military activity is ongoing. GPS signals may be blocked in parts of Lebanon, which could also affect flight availability. Avoid areas where military activity is ongoing. See our advice on ‘Armed conflict ’.
• An increased threat of military and terrorist attacks against Israel and Israeli interests across the region and ongoing military action in the Occupied Palestinian Territories could lead to increased tensions in other locations in the Middle East. This may also result in airspace closures, flight cancellations and diversions and other travel disruptions. Demonstrations and protest activity may occur, and localised security situations could deteriorate with little notice. Avoid all demonstrations and protests. 
• Terrorist attacks could occur anytime and anywhere, including in Beirut. Suicide bombings and attacks involving improvised explosive devices (IEDs), air raids and kidnappings have occurred in Lebanon. Extremists may target foreigners. Take safety precautions. Always be alert to possible threats and avoid potential targets. 
• Large protests happen and can turn violent. Tear gas, water cannons and live ammunition may be used. Avoid large public gatherings. Celebratory gunfire often occurs and has caused casualties. Stay inside during celebratory gunfire or if you're caught in civil unrest. Follow the advice of local authorities.
• There's a high threat of armed conflict south of the city of Sidon. The United Nations Interim Force in Lebanon (UNIFIL) has a peacekeeping presence there. Israeli forces occupy the southern border town of Ghajar. Tensions remain high in the surrounding region, including the Shebaa Farms, where daily military action is occurring. Avoid areas of military conflict.

Full travel advice: Safety

• Shortages of pharmaceuticals and medical supplies could occur without notice. Make sure you have enough medication with you, including if you need to depart Lebanon.
• The public health care system is limited. Most reputable hospitals are private and expensive. You'll probably have to pay up front. 
• Health risks include possible water contamination, waterborne illnesses and air pollution caused by burning waste and backup generators. Avoid uncollected waste. Drink only boiled or bottled water from bottles with sealed lids.

Full travel advice: Health

• Religious law and civil law are treated equally. All family law matters are based on local religious laws. Stop-orders that prevent you from leaving Lebanon may arise from family disputes. If you're involved in divorce, custody or other family disputes, speak to a lawyer before you leave Australia.
• Don't use or carry illegal drugs. Penalties are severe and include jail terms.
• Serious crimes like murder and treason may result in the death penalty. 
• Lebanon recognises dual nationality. However, Lebanese authorities treat Lebanese dual nationals as Lebanese citizens. This may limit our ability to help you if you're arrested or detained.
• Standards of dress and behaviour are modest in parts of Lebanon, particularly at religious sites.  Public displays of affection may cause offence.
• Be careful when taking photos. Photographing military personnel or sites, government buildings and major civil infrastructure, such as power stations and other installations is illegal.

Full travel advice: Local laws

• You should not travel to Lebanon at this time. Australians in Lebanon should leave immediately while commercial departure options are available.

Information on applying for a visa to enter Australia is available on the Department of Home Affairs  Lebanon Visa Support  website (also available in  Arabic ).

• You can get a tourist visa on arrival in Lebanon. Entry and exit conditions can change at short notice. Contact the nearest embassy or consulate of Lebanon for the latest details. 
• Always carry ID. You'll need to show it at road checkpoints. Lebanese General Security (border control) will check your name against a database of people wanted for or convicted of an offence. If your name matches an entry, you may be detained. You'll have to prove that the record doesn't relate to you. Carry supporting documents, such as a copy of your birth certificate or other official documents.
• Flights to and from Lebanon may fly over Syria, where ongoing conflict may increase risks to civil aviation. Civil aviation authorities in a number of countries do not allow airlines from those countries to fly in Syrian airspace.  Check with your airline or travel agent for updates and flight options. 
• GPS signals may be blocked in parts of Lebanon. This can disrupt navigational apps and devices.

Full travel advice:  Travel

Local contacts

• The  Consular Services Charter  details what we can and can't do to help you overseas.
• For consular assistance, contact the  Australian Embassy in Beirut . 
• To stay up to date with local information, follow the Embassy's social media accounts.

Full travel advice:  Local contacts

Full advice

Crisis registration.

If you're an Australian citizen or permanent resident in Lebanon you should register on  DFAT's crisis registration portal.  We’ll be contacting registered Australians directly with important updates and registration will make it easier for DFAT to contact you if assistance is required.

More information on returning to Australia can be found at  Information for Australians in Lebanon .

Keep your registration details up to date so we can contact you. 

You should only register if you’re in Lebanon and are:

• An Australian citizen, or
• An Australian permanent resident or
• an immediate family member of an Australian citizen or permanent resident 

CLICK HERE TO REGISTER   on DFAT's crisis registration portal.

Applying for a visa to Australia

Security situation

Australians in Lebanon should leave immediately while commercial flights remain available. The security situation could deteriorate rapidly throughout Lebanon with little or no notice.

There is a possibility of an increase in armed conflict that could affect wider areas of Lebanon, including Beirut. If the security situation in Lebanon deteriorates, Beirut airport will likely close at short notice and you may not be able to leave for an extended period. GPS signals may be blocked in parts of Lebanon, which may disrupt flight schedules. 

Australians in Lebanon who wish to leave, should leave now while commercial flights remain available. If the security situation deteriorates into broader armed conflict, the Australian Government may not be able to assist you to leave in such circumstances. See our  advice on armed conflict .

Daily military action has increased in southern Lebanon, including rocket and missile fire, as well as airstrikes. In January 2024, an explosion occurred in Beirut's southern suburbs (Dahiyeh region). The conflict could continue to escalate quickly or spread to other areas in Lebanon, including Beirut with little notice . This could affect your ability to move to safety. Avoid areas where military activity is ongoing.

To be well prepared to leave quickly, make sure you have:

• up-to-date travel documentation
• passports for children born in Lebanon
• current passports for family members travelling with you
• any medications you may need while travelling

If violence increases, roads and highways could become blocked. This includes routes to airports and borders.

Follow the advice of local authorities, including alerts to seek shelter. Monitor local media for updates. 

If you need emergency consular assistance, contact the Australian Government's Consular Emergency Centre on +61 2 62613305 (from overseas) or 1300 555 135 (in Australia).

Be extra cautious. The security situation is unpredictable and is affected by events including:

• clashes across the Lebanese/Israeli border
• conflict in neighbouring Syria
• the threat of terrorist attacks
• ongoing economic crisis, political and religious tensions

The ongoing crisis has reduced Lebanese law enforcement capacity. 

Civil unrest and political tension

The security situation in the region remains unpredictable and could deteriorate with little or no warning.

Political changes in the region and international events may prompt large demonstrations or violence. Planned and on-the-spot demonstrations can take place.

Anti-government protests occur. Protests may target key institutions and sites, including banks. Some can be large and escalate into violent clashes between protesters and security forces.

Authorities use various measures to break up crowds, including:

• water cannons
• tear gas 
• live ammunition

These measures have resulted in injuries.

Public protests and events that draw large groups of people can turn violent, including the use of weapons. You could be caught in violence directed at others.

During civil unrest and times of heightened tensions:

• avoid all crowds, protests and demonstrations
• pay close attention to your personal security
• monitor the media and other sources for news on planned and possible actions
• avoid areas where violence has occurred or is likely to occur
• plan your activities to avoid potential unrest on days of national significance
• be prepared to change your travel plans in case of disruptions

If you're in an area affected by clashes:

• stay indoors and away from windows and balconies
• follow the advice of local authorities

Stay indoors during celebratory gunfire, which has caused casualties, and often happens during and after political speeches, weddings, funerals and religious and new year holidays. 

If transport disruptions affect your travel plans, contact your airline, travel agent or insurer for help.

Leave Lebanon if you're concerned about your safety.

More information:

Demonstrations and civil unrest

In times of civil unrest, avoid areas of Beirut where protests are known to occur.

In Beirut, protests sometimes close main highways. Burning of tyres to block main roads is common. Groups protest against:

• government policies
• the situation in Syria
• the security environment
• the deteriorating social and economic situation

Civil unrest can affect the highways between central Beirut and the international airport.  Armed clashes have occurred in some areas of Beirut.

Southern suburbs (Dahiyeh region) of Beirut

Don't go to the Dahiyeh region, including:

• the area south of the Camille Chamoun Sports Stadium to the airport (south from Adnon El Hakim Road to Abbas El Mousawi Road). This includes the suburbs of Chiyah, Ghobeire, Haret Hreik, Bir el Abed, Borj el Barajne, Mraije, Roueiss, Lailake, Hay el Sellom, Tahouitit el Ghadir and Bir Hassan
• east of the airport highway
• west of the airport highway to El Akhtal El Saghir Road and south of the Coral Beach Hotel.

This area does not include the main airport highway (Hafez El Assad).

Security in the area is still unstable. You may be caught up in violent attacks between armed groups. Terrorist attacks may occur.

Palestinian refugee camps

Don't visit Palestinian refugee camps in any part of Lebanon.

Extremist groups operate inside camps. The security situation is uncertain and could get worse without warning.

The Lebanese state has no formal security presence in the camps. Armed clashes between rival groups happen. Violent crime is common.

Also avoid the general vicinity around the camps when there's heightened tension or armed clashes. Stray ammunition has caused casualties.

Tripoli and northern Lebanon

Don't go to Tripoli's Jabal Mohsen and Bab-al-Tabbaneh neighbourhoods. Violent clashes in the early stages of the Syrian conflict killed more than 200 people. The risk of civil unrest remains high and can turn violent.

In 2019, a lone wolf terrorist attack in Tripoli killed 4 members of the security service.

Lebanese authorities say extremists have taken refuge in northern Lebanon, including throughout the Akkar district.

North-eastern Beka'a Valley

Don't go to the north-eastern Beka'a Valley region, extending east and north from Rayak. This includes:

• Hermel-Baalbek region
• the towns Arsal, El Qaa and Ras Baalbek

Clashes between Lebanese security forces and militants are possible.

Other parts of the Beka'a Valley

Take extra care in the Beka'a valley, south of Zahle and Rayak, where the security environment is uncertain.

In August 2016, a roadside bomb exploded in Zahle. It killed 2 people and injured many others.

Regions within 5km of the Syrian border

Don't travel within 5km of the border with Syria, including:

• north of the Halba-Qoubaiyat Road, northern Akkar
• Hermel Wadi Khaled
• the Golan Heights
• Shebaa Farms

The conflict in Syria has led to repeated violent incidents in these areas.

Southern Lebanon

Don't travel to areas south of the city of Sidon (Saida). 

Daily military action is occurring and could escalate quickly. This could affect your ability to move to safety. There's an uncertain security environment and there are also landmines and unexploded ordnance.

Avoid crowds and large gatherings. You could be caught up in violence directed at others.

The United Nations Interim Force in Lebanon (UNIFIL) maintains peacekeeping activities south of the Litani River.

Israeli forces are in the southern border town of Ghajar. There are still tensions in the surrounding region, including the Shebaa Farms, where military activities have taken place. Shelling has been reported.

Although the Lebanese Armed Forces and United Nations peacekeeping forces are present in southern Lebanon, the situation could change quickly.

You could be caught up in violence directed at others.

Avoid areas where military activity is ongoing. Be ready to leave at short notice.

Be extra careful in the city of Sidon (Saida) where there's a history of violence between Lebanese armed forces and local militia.

Don't visit the Palestinian refugee camp of Ein El-Hilweh. There are ongoing clashes between rival groups, including the use of heavy weapons and snipers. Many people have been killed or injured. Lebanese authorities have limited capacity to impose law and order.

Also avoid the general vicinity around the Ein El-Hilweh camp when there's heightened tension or armed clashes. Stray ammunition has caused casualties.

There's a threat of terrorism in Lebanon. Attacks could occur anytime and anywhere, including in Beirut. Tactics used by terrorists can include car bombing, suicide bombing and rocket fire. Foreigners may be targeted. 

Security services are on a high state of alert and continue to carry out operations to prevent attacks.

If you notice a security operation is underway, leave the area straight away.

Targets associated with the Lebanese Government include: 

• government institutions, senior politicians, and officials
• the Lebanese Armed Forces
• infrastructure such as airports and public building

UNIFIL has also been targeted. 

Terrorists may also target areas frequented by foreigners, such as:

• buildings associated with embassies, foreign companies, and international organisations
• schools and places of worship
• hotels, clubs, restaurants and bars
• shopping centres, markets and grocery stores
• public transport
• promenades, cinemas, outdoor recreation events and other tourist areas

Extremists have increased attacks in the lead-up to and on days of national and religious significance.

Always be alert to possible threats, especially in public places.

Report any suspicious items or activities to police.

To reduce your risks:

• take official warnings seriously
• consider the likely level of security at known terrorist targets when planning your activities
• monitor the media for threats
• follow the instructions of local authorities.

If there's a terrorist attack:

• leave the affected area immediately if it's safe
• avoid the area afterwards in case of more attacks.

Don't gather in groups after an attack. This also applies if you're evacuated from a building for safety or security reasons.

Terrorism is a threat worldwide.

Kidnapping occurs across the world with political, ideological, and criminal motives. Foreigners, including Australians, have been kidnapped overseas whilst travelling. Kidnaps can happen anywhere, anytime, including destinations that are typically at lower risk.    There is a risk of kidnapping along the border regions with Syria and Israel, where criminal gangs rely on ransom payments to make revenue.    To reduce the risk of kidnapping: 

• always be alert to your personal security and surroundings 
• get professional security advice for travel in locations with a heightened kidnap risk 
• check your accommodation has appropriate security measures 
• avoid isolated locations, particularly when travelling alone 
• notify family or friends of planned travel and share your location  
• avoid talking about your money or business affairs 
• use ATMs in public places and during daylight hours 
• avoid giving personal details to strangers online or over the phone 

The Australian Government's longstanding policy is that it doesn't make payments or concessions to kidnappers.    Ransom payments to kidnappers have funded further terrorist attacks and criminal activity. Paying a ransom to terrorist groups will likely break Australian counter-terrorism financing laws.    More information:  

• Kidnapping  

Crime in Lebanon has increased due to the declining economic situation.

It could include:

• vehicle crime
• petty theft such as bag snatching (including by motorbike riders)
• home break-ins and armed  robberies  (especially at banks)
• physical and sexual assault

Always be aware of your surroundings.

• Female travellers
• LGBTQIA+ travellers

Cyber security

You may be at risk of cyber-based threats during overseas travel to any country. Digital identity theft is a growing concern. Your devices and personal data can be compromised, especially if you’re connecting to Wi-Fi, using or connecting to shared or public computers, or to Bluetooth.

Social media can also be risky in destinations where there are social or political tensions, or laws that may seem unreasonable by Australian standards. Travellers have been arrested for things they have said on social media. Don't comment on local or political events on your social media.

Climate and natural disasters

Lebanon experiences  natural disasters and  severe weather .

Lebanon is in an active earthquake zone.

Bush and forest fires occur in the summer months (July to September), especially in heavily forested areas. Avoid fire-affected areas. Monitor the media for updates.

Sand and dust storms are common. They may pose health risks, especially to people with breathing problems.

If a natural disaster or severe weather happens:

• monitor the  Global Disaster Alert and Coordination System

Travel insurance

Get comprehensive travel insurance before you leave. 

Your policy needs to cover all overseas medical costs, including medical evacuation. The Australian Government won't pay for these costs.

You'll probably need a specialised insurance policy that covers travel to high-risk destinations. 

If you can't afford travel insurance, you can't afford to travel. This applies to everyone, no matter how healthy and fit you are.

If you're not insured, you may have to pay many thousands of dollars upfront for medical care.

• what activities and care your policy covers
• that your insurance covers you for the whole time you'll be away

Physical and mental health

Consider your physical and mental health before you travel, especially if you have an existing medical condition. 

See your doctor or travel clinic to:

• have a basic health check-up
• ask if your travel plans may affect your health
• plan any vaccinations you need

Do this at least 8 weeks before you leave.

If you have immediate concerns for your welfare, or the welfare of another Australian, call the 24-hour Consular Emergency Centre on +61 2 6261 3305 or contact your  nearest Australian Embassy, High Commission or Consulate  to discuss counselling hotlines and services available in your location.

• General health advice
• Healthy holiday tips  (Healthdirect Australia)

Shortages of pharmaceuticals and medical supplies can occur without notice. 

Not all medication available over the counter or by prescription in Australia is available in other countries. Some may even be considered illegal or controlled substances, even if prescribed by an Australian doctor.

If you plan to bring medication, check if it's legal in Lebanon. Take enough legal medicine for your trip.

Carry a copy of your prescription or a letter from your doctor stating:

• what the medication is
• your required dosage
• that it's for personal use

Health risks

Health risks include possible water contamination, waterborne illnesses and air pollution caused by burning waste and exhaust fumes from diesel generators. Drink only boiled or bottled water from bottles with sealed lids. Drink only boiled or bottled water from bottles with sealed lids.

Medical care

Medical facilities.

The standard of medical facilities and care in many of Lebanon's large private hospitals is generally as good as in Australia. However, the public health system doesn't work in the same way. Most reputable hospitals are private and expensive. 

The ability of some hospitals to provide medical care may be impacted by the economic situation, shortages of medical supplies and frequent power cuts.

Doctors usually accept upfront cash payment for services. Treatment can be expensive.

Before treating patients, hospitals usually require a guarantee of payment such as:

• confirmed travel insurance with medical cover
• an up-front deposit

The American University of Beirut Medical Center has a decompression chamber.

You're subject to all local laws and penalties, including those that may appear harsh by Australian standards. Research local laws before travelling.

Crimes under Lebanese laws may not be considered offences in Australia. Religious law has the same standing as civil law, which incorporates family law, marriage, divorce and custody.

If you're arrested or jailed, the Australian Government will do what it can to help you under our Consular Services Charter . But we can't get you out of trouble or out of jail.

All family law matters are based on local religious laws. This includes child custody and divorce decisions.

If you're involved in custody or other family disputes, speak to a lawyer before you leave Australia. Ask for advice on how religious law may affect your family circumstances.

Lebanon has not signed the Hague Convention on the Civil Aspects of International Child Abduction . There is no quick method to return a child abducted by a parent to Lebanon back to Australia.

Lebanese nationals and non-nationals can stop family members from leaving Lebanon if there are pending family court matters. It won't matter if the family members are Australian citizens.

Authorities have stopped Australians and Australian-Lebanese dual nationals, including mothers with children, from leaving Lebanon. Relatives have legally placed border alerts ('stop orders') where there are pending family court matters. Stop orders are not difficult to arrange.  Overturning stop orders can be a time consuming and complicated process.

The Australian Government can't prevent or overturn a stop order on an Australian citizen.

Penalties for drug offences are severe and include mandatory jail terms.

Carrying or using drugs

Serious crimes, such as murder and treason, may attract the death penalty.

Access to some areas of Lebanon is restricted.

Authorities may detain you and take your camera if you photograph or film:

• military personnel or facilities
• government buildings
• major civilian infrastructure (such as power stations)

LGBTQIA+ information

Same-sex relations are illegal in Lebanon. Penalties include jail terms of up to one year. 

There's been an increase in anti-LGBTQIA+ rhetoric in the community. Some incidents of targeted harassment have occurred. 

Advice for LGBTQIA+ travellers

Australian laws

Some Australian criminal laws still apply when you're overseas. If you break these laws, you may face prosecution in Australia.

Australians may be charged under Australian law if they take part in conflict in other countries.

Staying within the law and respecting customs

Dual citizenship

Lebanon recognises dual nationality. However, Lebanese citizenship takes precedence over the second nationality.

If you're a dual national, Lebanese authorities will treat you as a Lebanese citizen. This may limit the consular services we can provide if you're arrested or detained.

If you're a dual citizen re-entering Lebanon on your Lebanese passport or identity document, make sure:

• your Lebanese documentation is up to date
• you meet all entry requirements
• Embassy or consulate of Lebanon
• Dual nationals

Local customs

Standards of dress and behaviour are modest in parts of Lebanon, particularly at religious sites.

Take care not to offend. If in doubt, seek local advice.

Public displays of affection may cause offence in conservative and religious areas.

Some hotels ask for proof of marriage before renting rooms to couples. Hotels may refuse you accommodation if you can't provide proof.

The Islamic holiday month of Ramadan is observed in Lebanon. Respect religious and cultural customs and laws during this time.

Avoid eating, drinking or smoking in public or in front of people who are fasting.

Visas and border measures

Every country or territory decides who can enter or leave through its borders. For specific information about the evidence you'll need to enter a foreign destination, check with the nearest embassy, consulate or immigration department of the destination you're entering. 

You can get a tourist visa on arrival.

Entry and exit conditions can change at short notice. Contact the nearest Lebanese embassy or consulate for details about visas, currency, customs and quarantine rules.

Every country or territory decides who can enter or exit through its borders.

Make sure you meet all entry and exit conditions. If you don't, the Australian Government can't help you.

Border measures

For measures regarding travel between Syria and Lebanon, contact Lebanese and Syrian authorities. 

• Lebanon - Ministry of Public Health
• Medical assistance overseas

Other formalities

Travel to israel.

It's against Lebanese law to travel to Israel.

If you're an Australian dual national of Lebanon or another Arab nation and you've travelled to or intend to travel to Israel, authorities are likely to arrest and imprison you.

Authorities can hold anyone for questioning for several days and then deport them.

If there's evidence that you've travelled to Israel, or intend to, you will be refused entry to Lebanon or will be deported. Evidence includes:

• Israeli exit or entry stamps in your passport
• Egyptian or Jordanian stamps from border crossings with Israel
• travel itineraries or tickets that include Israel as a destination
• souvenirs from Israel
• airline tags on your bags

Border alerts

Lebanese Border Control checks all traveller names on arrival and departure against a database of border alerts ('stop orders').

Border alerts are raised if there are pending court cases or warrants for people:

• who are wanted for an offence in Lebanon
• who have been convicted of an offence in Lebanon
• with pending family court matters (see  Local laws )

If your name matches an entry in the database, authorities may detain you. You'll have to prove the record doesn't relate to you.

Carry supporting identity documents.

Travellers have been detained due to cases of mistaken identity.

Some countries won't let you enter unless your passport is valid for 6 months after you plan to leave that country. This can apply even if you're just transiting or stopping over.

Some foreign governments and airlines apply the rule inconsistently. Travellers can receive conflicting advice from different sources.

You can end up stranded if your passport is not valid for more than 6 months.

The Australian Government does not set these rules. Check your passport's expiry date before you travel. If you're not sure it'll be valid for long enough, consider getting a new passport .

Lost or stolen passport

Your passport is a valuable document. It's attractive to people who may try to use your identity to commit crimes.

Some people may try to trick you into giving them your passport. Always keep it in a safe place.

If your passport is lost or stolen, tell the Australian Government as soon as possible:

• In Australia, contact the Australian Passport Information Service .
• If you're overseas, contact the nearest Australian embassy or consulate .

Passport with X gender identifier

Although Australian passports comply with international standards for sex and gender, we can’t guarantee that a passport showing 'X' in the sex field will be accepted for entry or transit by another country. Contact the nearest  embassy, high commission or consulate of your destination  before you arrive at the border to confirm if authorities will accept passports with 'X' gender markers.

The Lebanese Pound is the official currency of Lebanon. Both the USD and the Lebanese Pound (also known as the Lebanese Lira) are accepted throughout Lebanon. 

Currency exchange facilities and ATMs are widely available in Beirut and other large cities. Daily withdrawal limits may apply.

The Lebanese Pound has devalued sharply as a result of the ongoing economic crisis. This has led to high inflation and diminished the purchasing power of the Lebanese Pound. Make sure you have access to enough hard currency cash during your stay. Contact your bank and monitor media reports before you travel to Lebanon.

Local travel

Fuel and power shortages frequently occur, disrupting public water supply and telecommunication networks, including mobile and internet. 

Expect delays and closures at service stations during fuel shortages. Acts of violence and security incidents have occurred at fuel distribution and storage sites.

Public and private sector industrial strikes occur occasionally, which may affect essential services, including telecommunications and the banking sector. 

Shortages of pharmaceuticals and medical supplies can occur without notice.

Monitor the media for updates on changes that may affect your safety and access to essential services.

Road travel

If you plan to drive in Lebanon, you should hold an International Drivers Permit.

Armed security is present throughout Lebanon, including at road checkpoints.

Always carry ID. Follow the advice of security personnel.

Driving can be dangerous due to:

• poorly maintained roads and vehicles
• snow and ice in winter
• traffic conditions
• poor local driving habits
• lack of streetlights and functioning traffic lights

There are many unexploded weapons throughout Lebanon, including:

• cluster bombs

Most are in the south, especially south of the Litani River.

Minefields aren't always clearly marked. Those that are marked can shift away from signed areas.

To protect yourself from landmines:

• ask local residents for advice
• stay on sealed roads
• avoid walking or driving cross-country

Roads may be blocked during demonstrations and civil unrest. This includes routes to and from the airport and border crossings.

GPS signals may be blocked in parts of Lebanon, disrupting navigational apps. 

Driving or riding

Don't use service (shared) taxis or taxis hailed on the street, especially late at night.

Only use taxis from recognised companies. Australian Embassy staff in Beirut have been advised to use Allo Taxi.

An increased threat of military and terrorist attacks against Israel and Israeli interests across the region and ongoing military action in the Occupied Palestinian Territories could lead to increased tensions in other locations in the Middle East. This may also result in airspace closures, flight cancellations and diversions and other travel disruptions.

Flights to and from Lebanon may fly over Syria, where ongoing conflict could increase risks to civil aviation. Civil aviation authorities in a number of countries do not allow airlines from those countries to fly in Syrian airspace.  For more information, refer to the  Smartraveller page on air travel and check with airlines before booking. Flight paths are subject to change. Check with your airline or travel agent for updates and flight options. 

GPS signals may be blocked in parts of Lebanon, disrupting navigational devices. This may affect flights.

DFAT doesn't provide information on the safety of individual commercial airlines or flight paths.

Adventure activities

Transport and tour operators don't always follow safety and maintenance standards. This includes for adventure activities.

If you plan to do an adventure activity :

• check if your travel insurance policy covers it
• ask about and insist on minimum safety requirements
• always use available safety gear, such as life jackets or seatbelts

If proper safety equipment isn't available, use another provider.

Emergencies

Depending on what you need, contact your:

• family and friends
• travel agent
• insurance provider

Call 140 or 81715076. 

Always get a police report when you report a crime.

Your insurer should have a 24-hour emergency number.

Consular contacts

Read the Consular Services Charter for what the Australian Government can and can't do to help you overseas.

For consular assistance, contact the Australian Embassy in Beirut . 

Australian Embassy

Embassy Complex Serail Hill Downtown Beirut Lebanon

Phone: +961 1 960600 Email:  [email protected]      Website:  lebanon.embassy.gov.au Facebook:  Australian Embassy - Beirut, Lebanon X:  @SafirAustralia

24-hour Consular Emergency Centre

In a consular emergency outside of the Embassy’s business hours, or if you can’t contact the Embassy, call the 24-hour Consular Emergency Centre (CEC) on:

• +961 1 960600 from Lebanon (and press 7 to speak to a CEC operator)
• +61 2 6261 3305 from overseas
• 1300 555 135 in Australia

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Travel health notices, vaccines and medicines, non-vaccine-preventable diseases, stay healthy and safe.

• Packing List

After Your Trip

Be aware of current health issues in Lebanon. Learn how to protect yourself.

Level 1 Practice Usual Precautions

• Updated   Global Measles August 14, 2024 Many international destinations are reporting increased numbers of cases of measles. Destination List: Afghanistan, Angola, Armenia, Austria, Azerbaijan, Belarus, Benin, Bhutan, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Burkina Faso, Burundi, Cameroon, Central African Republic, Chad, Côte d'Ivoire (Ivory Coast), Democratic Republic of the Congo, Djibouti, Equatorial Guinea, Ethiopia, Gabon, Georgia, Ghana, Guinea, India, Indonesia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Lebanon, Liberia, Malaysia, Mali, Mauritania, Mozambique, Niger, Nigeria, Pakistan, Philippines, Qatar, Republic of South Sudan, Republic of the Congo, Romania, Russia, San Marino, Senegal, Somalia, Sri Lanka, Sudan, Syria, Togo, Turkey, United Arab Emirates, Uzbekistan, Yemen, Zambia

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Check the vaccines and medicines list and visit your doctor at least a month before your trip to get vaccines or medicines you may need. If you or your doctor need help finding a location that provides certain vaccines or medicines, visit the Find a Clinic page.

Avoid contaminated water

Leptospirosis

How most people get sick (most common modes of transmission)

• Touching urine or other body fluids from an animal infected with leptospirosis
• Swimming or wading in urine-contaminated fresh water, or contact with urine-contaminated mud
• Drinking water or eating food contaminated with animal urine
• Avoid contaminated water and soil
• Avoid floodwater

Clinical Guidance

Avoid bug bites.

Leishmaniasis

• Sand fly bite
• Avoid Bug Bites

Airborne & droplet

• Breathing in air or accidentally eating food contaminated with the urine, droppings, or saliva of infected rodents
• Bite from an infected rodent
• Less commonly, being around someone sick with hantavirus (only occurs with Andes virus)
• Avoid rodents and areas where they live
• Avoid sick people

Middle East Respiratory Syndrome (MERS)

• Scientists do not fully understand how the MERS virus spreads
• May spread from to others when an infected person coughs or sneezes
• May spread to people from camels.

Middle East Respiratory virus syndrome (MERS)

Tuberculosis (TB)

• Breathe in TB bacteria that is in the air from an infected and contagious person coughing, speaking, or singing.

Learn actions you can take to stay healthy and safe on your trip. Vaccines cannot protect you from many diseases in Lebanon, so your behaviors are important.

Eat and drink safely

Food and water standards around the world vary based on the destination. Standards may also differ within a country and risk may change depending on activity type (e.g., hiking versus business trip). You can learn more about safe food and drink choices when traveling by accessing the resources below.

• Choose Safe Food and Drinks When Traveling
• Water Treatment Options When Hiking, Camping or Traveling
• Global Water, Sanitation and Hygiene (WASH)
• Avoid Contaminated Water During Travel

You can also visit the Department of State Country Information Pages for additional information about food and water safety.

Prevent bug bites

Bugs (like mosquitoes, ticks, and fleas) can spread a number of diseases in Lebanon. Many of these diseases cannot be prevented with a vaccine or medicine. You can reduce your risk by taking steps to prevent bug bites.

What can I do to prevent bug bites?

• Cover exposed skin by wearing long-sleeved shirts, long pants, and hats.
• Use an appropriate insect repellent (see below).
• Use permethrin-treated clothing and gear (such as boots, pants, socks, and tents). Do not use permethrin directly on skin.
• Stay and sleep in air-conditioned or screened rooms.
• Use a bed net if the area where you are sleeping is exposed to the outdoors.

What type of insect repellent should I use?

• FOR PROTECTION AGAINST TICKS AND MOSQUITOES: Use a repellent that contains 20% or more DEET for protection that lasts up to several hours.
• Picaridin (also known as KBR 3023, Bayrepel, and icaridin)
• Oil of lemon eucalyptus (OLE) or para-menthane-diol (PMD)
• 2-undecanone
• Always use insect repellent as directed.

What should I do if I am bitten by bugs?

• Avoid scratching bug bites, and apply hydrocortisone cream or calamine lotion to reduce the itching.
• Check your entire body for ticks after outdoor activity. Be sure to remove ticks properly.

What can I do to avoid bed bugs?

Although bed bugs do not carry disease, they are an annoyance. See our information page about avoiding bug bites for some easy tips to avoid them. For more information on bed bugs, see Bed Bugs .

For more detailed information on avoiding bug bites, see Avoid Bug Bites .

Stay safe outdoors

If your travel plans in Lebanon include outdoor activities, take these steps to stay safe and healthy during your trip.

• Stay alert to changing weather conditions and adjust your plans if conditions become unsafe.
• Prepare for activities by wearing the right clothes and packing protective items, such as bug spray, sunscreen, and a basic first aid kit.
• Consider learning basic first aid and CPR before travel. Bring a travel health kit with items appropriate for your activities.
• If you are outside for many hours in heat, eat salty snacks and drink water to stay hydrated and replace salt lost through sweating.
• Protect yourself from UV radiation : use sunscreen with an SPF of at least 15, wear protective clothing, and seek shade during the hottest time of day (10 a.m.–4 p.m.).
• Be especially careful during summer months and at high elevation. Because sunlight reflects off snow, sand, and water, sun exposure may be increased during activities like skiing, swimming, and sailing.
• Very cold temperatures can be dangerous. Dress in layers and cover heads, hands, and feet properly if you are visiting a cold location.

Stay safe around water

• Swim only in designated swimming areas. Obey lifeguards and warning flags on beaches.
• Practice safe boating—follow all boating safety laws, do not drink alcohol if driving a boat, and always wear a life jacket.
• Do not dive into shallow water.
• Do not swim in freshwater in developing areas or where sanitation is poor.
• Avoid swallowing water when swimming. Untreated water can carry germs that make you sick.
• To prevent infections, wear shoes on beaches where there may be animal waste.

Schistosomiasis, a parasitic infection that can be spread in fresh water, is found in Lebanon. Avoid swimming in fresh, unchlorinated water, such as lakes, ponds, or rivers.

Keep away from animals

Most animals avoid people, but they may attack if they feel threatened, are protecting their young or territory, or if they are injured or ill. Animal bites and scratches can lead to serious diseases such as rabies.

Follow these tips to protect yourself:

• Do not touch or feed any animals you do not know.
• Do not allow animals to lick open wounds, and do not get animal saliva in your eyes or mouth.
• Avoid rodents and their urine and feces.
• Traveling pets should be supervised closely and not allowed to come in contact with local animals.
• If you wake in a room with a bat, seek medical care immediately. Bat bites may be hard to see.

All animals can pose a threat, but be extra careful around dogs, bats, monkeys, sea animals such as jellyfish, and snakes. If you are bitten or scratched by an animal, immediately:

• Wash the wound with soap and clean water.
• Go to a doctor right away.
• Tell your doctor about your injury when you get back to the United States.

Consider buying medical evacuation insurance. Rabies is a deadly disease that must be treated quickly, and treatment may not be available in some countries.

Reduce your exposure to germs

Follow these tips to avoid getting sick or spreading illness to others while traveling:

• Wash your hands often, especially before eating.
• If soap and water aren’t available, clean hands with hand sanitizer (containing at least 60% alcohol).
• Don’t touch your eyes, nose, or mouth. If you need to touch your face, make sure your hands are clean.
• Cover your mouth and nose with a tissue or your sleeve (not your hands) when coughing or sneezing.
• Try to avoid contact with people who are sick.
• If you are sick, stay home or in your hotel room, unless you need medical care.

Avoid sharing body fluids

Diseases can be spread through body fluids, such as saliva, blood, vomit, and semen.

Protect yourself:

• Use latex condoms correctly.
• Do not inject drugs.
• Limit alcohol consumption. People take more risks when intoxicated.
• Do not share needles or any devices that can break the skin. That includes needles for tattoos, piercings, and acupuncture.
• If you receive medical or dental care, make sure the equipment is disinfected or sanitized.

Know how to get medical care while traveling

Plan for how you will get health care during your trip, should the need arise:

• Carry a list of local doctors and hospitals at your destination.
• Review your health insurance plan to determine what medical services it would cover during your trip. Consider purchasing travel health and medical evacuation insurance.
• Carry a card that identifies, in the local language, your blood type, chronic conditions or serious allergies, and the generic names of any medications you take.
• Some prescription drugs may be illegal in other countries. Call Lebanon’s embassy to verify that all of your prescription(s) are legal to bring with you.
• Bring all the medicines (including over-the-counter medicines) you think you might need during your trip, including extra in case of travel delays. Ask your doctor to help you get prescriptions filled early if you need to.

Many foreign hospitals and clinics are accredited by the Joint Commission International. A list of accredited facilities is available at their website ( www.jointcommissioninternational.org ).

In some countries, medicine (prescription and over-the-counter) may be substandard or counterfeit. Bring the medicines you will need from the United States to avoid having to buy them at your destination.

Select safe transportation

Motor vehicle crashes are the #1 killer of healthy US citizens in foreign countries.

In many places cars, buses, large trucks, rickshaws, bikes, people on foot, and even animals share the same lanes of traffic, increasing the risk for crashes.

Be smart when you are traveling on foot.

• Use sidewalks and marked crosswalks.
• Pay attention to the traffic around you, especially in crowded areas.
• Remember, people on foot do not always have the right of way in other countries.

Riding/Driving

Choose a safe vehicle.

• Choose official taxis or public transportation, such as trains and buses.
• Ride only in cars that have seatbelts.
• Avoid overcrowded, overloaded, top-heavy buses and minivans.
• Avoid riding on motorcycles or motorbikes, especially motorbike taxis. (Many crashes are caused by inexperienced motorbike drivers.)
• Choose newer vehicles—they may have more safety features, such as airbags, and be more reliable.
• Choose larger vehicles, which may provide more protection in crashes.

Think about the driver.

• Do not drive after drinking alcohol or ride with someone who has been drinking.
• Consider hiring a licensed, trained driver familiar with the area.
• Arrange payment before departing.

Follow basic safety tips.

• Wear a seatbelt at all times.
• Sit in the back seat of cars and taxis.
• When on motorbikes or bicycles, always wear a helmet. (Bring a helmet from home, if needed.)
• Avoid driving at night; street lighting in certain parts of Lebanon may be poor.
• Do not use a cell phone or text while driving (illegal in many countries).
• Travel during daylight hours only, especially in rural areas.
• If you choose to drive a vehicle in Lebanon, learn the local traffic laws and have the proper paperwork.
• Get any driving permits and insurance you may need. Get an International Driving Permit (IDP). Carry the IDP and a US-issued driver's license at all times.
• Check with your auto insurance policy's international coverage, and get more coverage if needed. Make sure you have liability insurance.
• Avoid using local, unscheduled aircraft.
• If possible, fly on larger planes (more than 30 seats); larger airplanes are more likely to have regular safety inspections.
• Try to schedule flights during daylight hours and in good weather.

Medical Evacuation Insurance

If you are seriously injured, emergency care may not be available or may not meet US standards. Trauma care centers are uncommon outside urban areas. Having medical evacuation insurance can be helpful for these reasons.

Helpful Resources

Road Safety Overseas (Information from the US Department of State): Includes tips on driving in other countries, International Driving Permits, auto insurance, and other resources.

The Association for International Road Travel has country-specific Road Travel Reports available for most countries for a minimal fee.

Maintain personal security

Use the same common sense traveling overseas that you would at home, and always stay alert and aware of your surroundings.

Before you leave

• Research your destination(s), including local laws, customs, and culture.
• Monitor travel advisories and alerts and read travel tips from the US Department of State.
• Enroll in the Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP) .
• Leave a copy of your itinerary, contact information, credit cards, and passport with someone at home.
• Pack as light as possible, and leave at home any item you could not replace.

While at your destination(s)

• Carry contact information for the nearest US embassy or consulate .
• Carry a photocopy of your passport and entry stamp; leave the actual passport securely in your hotel.
• Follow all local laws and social customs.
• Do not wear expensive clothing or jewelry.
• Always keep hotel doors locked, and store valuables in secure areas.
• If possible, choose hotel rooms between the 2nd and 6th floors.

Healthy Travel Packing List

Use the Healthy Travel Packing List for Lebanon for a list of health-related items to consider packing for your trip. Talk to your doctor about which items are most important for you.

Why does CDC recommend packing these health-related items?

It’s best to be prepared to prevent and treat common illnesses and injuries. Some supplies and medicines may be difficult to find at your destination, may have different names, or may have different ingredients than what you normally use.

If you are not feeling well after your trip, you may need to see a doctor. If you need help finding a travel medicine specialist, see Find a Clinic . Be sure to tell your doctor about your travel, including where you went and what you did on your trip. Also tell your doctor if you were bitten or scratched by an animal while traveling.

For more information on what to do if you are sick after your trip, see Getting Sick after Travel .

Map Disclaimer - The boundaries and names shown and the designations used on maps do not imply the expression of any opinion whatsoever on the part of the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention concerning the legal status of any country, territory, city or area or of its authorities, or concerning the delimitation of its frontiers or boundaries. Approximate border lines for which there may not yet be full agreement are generally marked.

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Travel Advisory July 31, 2024

Lebanon - level 4: do not travel.

Updated to raise the Travel Advisory to Level 4: Do Not Travel, due to rising tensions between Hizballah and Israel.

Do Not Travel to Lebanon due to rising tensions between Hizballah and Israel . If you are in Lebanon, be prepared to shelter in place should the situation deteriorate. The U.S. Embassy strongly encourages U.S. citizens who are already in Southern Lebanon, near the borders with Syria, and/or in refugee settlements to depart.

Do Not Travel to Lebanon due to crime, terrorism, civil unrest, kidnapping, unexploded landmines, and the risk of armed conflict . Some areas, especially near the borders, have increased risk. Read the entire Travel Advisory.

Country Summary : Country Summary: U.S. citizens already in Lebanon should be aware of the risks of remaining in the country and review their personal security plans.

U.S. citizens in Lebanon should be aware that consular officers from the U.S. Embassy are not always able to travel to assist them. The Department of State considers the threat to U.S. government personnel in Beirut serious enough to require them to live and work under strict security. The internal security policies of the U.S. Embassy may be adjusted at any time and without advance notice.

Since October 8, Hizballah has conducted attacks against Israel that have escalated in recent weeks, culminating in a July 27 rocket attack on Majdal Shams, a town in the Golan Heights, which killed 12 children. This strike has increased the risk of further escalation between Hizballah and Israel.

The Lebanese government cannot guarantee the safety of U.S. citizens against sudden outbreaks of violence and armed conflict. Family, neighborhood, or sectarian disputes can escalate quickly and can lead to gunfire or other violence with no warning.

Terrorist groups continue plotting possible attacks in Lebanon. Terrorists may conduct attacks with little or no warning targeting tourist locations, transportation hubs, markets/shopping malls, and local government facilities.

Local security authorities have noted a rise in violent crimes, including political violence. Multiple unsolved killings in Lebanon may have been politically motivated.

Kidnapping, whether for ransom, political motives, or family disputes, has occurred in Lebanon. Suspects in kidnappings may have ties to terrorist or criminal organizations.

Unexploded landmines and explosive remnants of war are a hazard along the border with Syria. Heed land mine warning signs. Do not venture off the road into areas marked off with red and white plastic tape. Avoid roadside ditches, shoulders, and unmarked trails. Never touch anything resembling unexploded munitions.

U.S. citizens should avoid demonstrations and exercise caution if in the vicinity of any large gatherings or protests as these have the potential to turn violent quickly and with little notice. Protesters have blocked major roads, including thoroughfares between downtown Beirut and the area where the U.S. Embassy is located, and between Beirut and Beirut Rafic Hariri International Airport.

Read the  country information page  for additional information on travel to Lebanon.

If you decide to travel to Lebanon:

• Visit our website for information on   Travel to High-Risk Areas .
• Appoint one family member to serve as the point of contact with kidnappers/hostage-takers, media, U.S. and host country government agencies, and members of Congress if you are kidnapped, or taken hostage.
• Keep travel documents up to date and easily accessible.
• Do not touch unknown metal objects and avoid traveling off well-used roads, tracks, and paths due to risk of unexploded ordnance.
• Avoid demonstrations and crowds.
• Stay alert in locations frequented by Westerners.
• Monitor local media for breaking events and adjust your plans based on new information.
• Enroll in the  Smart Traveler Enrollment Program  ( STEP ) to receive Alerts and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
• Follow the Department of State on  Facebook  and  Twitter .
• Review the  Country Security Report  for Lebanon.
• Visit the CDC page for the latest  Travel Health Information  related to your travel.
• U.S. citizens who travel abroad should always have a contingency plan for emergency situations. Review the  Traveler’s Checklist .

Southern Lebanon – Level 4: Do Not Travel, Depart If You Are There  (See map below)

The U.S. Embassy strongly urges U.S. citizens to avoid southern Lebanon and to depart if you are there; that is, all parts south of the city of Saida, to include inland areas, as illustrated in the map below. Cross-border rocket, missile, and artillery fire continues to impact southern Lebanon on a daily basis and has caused a significant number of fatalities and injuries.

Border with Syria – Level 4: Do Not Travel, Depart If You Are There

The U.S. Embassy strongly urges U.S. citizens to avoid the Lebanon-Syria border and to depart if you are there. This area has seen clashes between Lebanese security forces and Syrian-based violent extremist groups. The U.S. Department of State also warns U.S. citizens of the risk of traveling on flights that fly over Syria, which include some flights to and from Beirut.

Refugee Settlements – Level 4: Do Not Travel, Depart If You Are There

The U.S. Embassy urges U.S. citizens to avoid travel to refugee settlements in Lebanon and depart if you are there. These settlements are prone to outbreaks of violence including shootings and explosions.

Visit our website for  Travel to High-Risk Areas .

Embassy Messages

View Alerts and Messages Archive

Quick Facts

Valid for ninety days following entry, with no Israeli stamps or visas

One page required for entry stamp

Embassies and Consulates

U.S. Embassy Beirut Awkar (facing the Awkar Municipality Building), Main Street Beirut, Lebanon Telephone:  +(961) 4-542600 or +(961) 4-543600 Emergency After-Hours Telephone:  +(961) 4-543600 Fax:  +(961) 4-544209 Email: [email protected]

Destination Description

See the Department of State’s Fact Sheet on Lebanon for information on U.S.-Lebanon relations.

Entry, Exit and Visa Requirements

• Passports and visas are required.
• U.S. citizens coming to Lebanon for tourism routinely receive a one-month visa on arrival at Beirut International Airport or other port of entry. This visa can be extended. Details on the extension can be obtained at a local office of  Sûreté Générale (General Security) .
• U.S. citizens who also hold Lebanese citizenship are subject to the requirements and responsibilities of Lebanese citizenship under Lebanese law.
• More information on Lebanon’s entry and exit requirements can be found on General Security’s  website .
• Travelers who hold passports that contain visas or entry/exit stamps for Israel will be denied entry into Lebanon and may be subject to arrest or detention. Even if travel documents contain no Israeli stamps or visas, persons who have previously traveled to Israel may still face arrest and/or detention if prior travel is disclosed.
• Travelers who have previously worked in Lebanon without the appropriate work visa may be denied entry, detained or deported.
• Travelers who have previously resided in Lebanon under refugee status, regardless of current citizenship, may be denied entry.
• Travelers who have overstayed their entry visa validity in Lebanon must obtain an exit visa from General Security’s Department of Passport and Immigration prior to their departure.
• Individuals who are detained and awaiting deportation will remain detained until they pay the cost of their return airfare.
• Authorities with General Security may retain U.S. passports for an extended period while U.S. citizens await issuance of work or residency permits.

For Additional Information:

• Contact the  Embassy of Lebanon , 2560 28th Street NW, Washington, DC, 20008, tel. (202) 939-6300; e-mail:  [email protected] .
• Los Angeles
• Additional information on Honorary Consulates in the United States can be found within the Consular Affairs section of the  Embassy of Lebanon website .

The U.S. Department of State is unaware of any HIV/AIDS entry restrictions for visitors to or foreign residents of Lebanon.

Find information on  dual nationality ,  prevention of international child abduction  and  customs regulations  on our websites.

Safety and Security

Terrorism:   Across the world, terrorist groups and those inspired by such organizations are intent on attacking U.S. citizens abroad and resort to various methods of attack – including knives, firearms, and vehicles  – frequently on unprotected or vulnerable targets, such as:

• High-profile public events (sporting contests, political rallies, demonstrations, holiday events, celebratory gatherings, etc.)
• Hotels, clubs, and restaurants frequented by tourists
• Places of worship
• Shopping malls and markets
• Public transportation systems (including subways, buses, trains, and scheduled commercial flights)

In Lebanon, there is potential for death or injury because of terrorist attacks. Violent extremist groups, including U.S. government-designated terrorist organizations, operate in Lebanon. ISIS and affiliated groups have claimed responsibility for suicide bombings in Lebanon. U.S. citizens have been the targets of terrorist attacks in Lebanon. The threat of anti-Western terrorist activity persists, as does the risk of death or injury to bystanders. Clashes between Lebanese authorities and criminal elements continue to occur in areas of the Bekaa Valley and border regions.  Hizballah maintains a strong presence in the Bekaa Valley, in addition to areas in southern Lebanon and south Beirut. In addition to the threat of Hizballah conducted terrorist activity, Hizballah has been the target of attacks by other extremist groups for their support of the Assad regime in Syria.

Avoid the Lebanon-Syria border region: The U.S. Embassy strongly urges U.S. citizens to avoid the Lebanese-Syrian border region because of past clashes, extremist activity, and the potential for these to recur at any time.

Avoid the Lebanon-Israel border region: Hostilities flared in Southern Lebanon in April 2022, and again in April 2023, due to tensions between Israel, Hizballah, and the Palestinian terrorist group HAMAS. The potential for wider conflict remains. The U.S. Embassy urges U.S. citizens to avoid the Lebanon-Israel border area due to ongoing tensions between the two countries. Attacks and responses can occur without warning. Landmines and unexploded ordnance pose significant dangers throughout southern Lebanon, particularly south of the Litani River. Travelers should watch for posted landmine warnings and strictly avoid all marked areas.

Avoid travel to refugee settlements: Violence within refugee settlements has resulted in shootings and explosions. U.S. citizens should avoid travel to refugee settlements. Palestinian groups hostile to both the Lebanese government and the United States operate autonomously in formal and informal refugee settlements in different areas of the country.

For more information, see our Terrorism page.

Crime: Reported crime rates in Lebanon are moderate but rising. Violent crime and sexual assault are rare but do occur. Petty theft -- such as pickpocketing and purse snatching -- occurs in crowded public areas. More recently, the dire economic situation is engendering a significant increase in economically motivated crimes, including home invasions and car thefts. Police are responsive but often unable to affect a positive outcome.

Demonstrations occur frequently. They may take place in response to political or economic issues, on politically significant holidays, and during international events. Protests often occur spontaneously with little to no advance warning.

• Even demonstrations intended to be peaceful can turn confrontational and possibly become violent. 
• Avoid areas around protests and demonstrations. 
• Check local media for updates and traffic advisories.

International Financial Scams: Internet romance and financial scams are prevalent in Lebanon. Scams are often initiated through Internet postings/profiles or by unsolicited emails and letters. Scammers almost always pose as U.S. citizens who have no one else to turn to for help.

Common scams include:

• Romance/Online dating
• Work permits/job offers

See the  Department of State  and the  FBI pages for information.

Victims of Crime: U.S. citizen victims of sexual assault or domestic violence are encouraged to contact the U.S. Embassy for assistance. Report crimes by visiting the nearest police or by calling the ISF hotline 1745 and contact the U.S. Embassy at +(961) 4-542600 or +(961) 4-543600. Local authorities are responsible for investigating and prosecuting crimes.

See our webpage on help for U.S. victims of crime overseas .

• Help you find appropriate medical care
• Assist you in reporting a crime to the police
• Contact relatives or friends with your written consent
• Provide general information regarding the victim’s role during the local investigation and following its conclusion
• Provide a list of local attorneys
• Provide our information on victim’s compensation programs in the U.S.
• Provide an emergency loan for repatriation to the United States and/or limited medical support in cases of destitution
• Help you find accommodation and arrange flights home
• Replace a stolen or lost passport

Domestic Violence: U.S. citizen victims of domestic violence are encouraged to contact the Embassy for assistance.

Tourism: The tourism industry is unevenly regulated, and safety inspections for equipment and facilities do not commonly occur. Hazardous areas/activities are not always identified with appropriate signage, and staff may not be trained or certified either by the host government or by recognized authorities in the field. In the event of an injury, appropriate medical treatment is typically available only in/near major cities. First responders are generally unable to access areas outside of major cities and to provide urgent medical treatment. U.S. citizens are encouraged to purchase medical evacuation insurance. See our webpage for more information on insurance providers for overseas coverage.

Local Laws & Special Circumstances

Criminal Penalties: You are subject to local laws. If you violate local laws, even unknowingly, you may be expelled, arrested, or imprisoned. Individuals establishing a business or practicing a profession that requires additional permits or licensing should seek information from the competent local authorities, prior to practicing or operating a business.  

Penalties for possessing, using, or trafficking in illegal drugs in Lebanon can be significant, and convicted offenders can expect long jail sentences and heavy fines. Visitors lacking passport or identification documents at government checkpoints are subject to questioning by Lebanese authorities. In certain areas, taking photos of buildings or other infrastructure has led to questioning and detention. In Lebanon, persons driving under the influence can be jailed immediately.

Furthermore, some laws are also prosecutable in the United States, regardless of local law. For examples, see our website on crimes against minors abroad and the Department of Justice website .

Arrest Notification: If you are arrested or detained, ask police or prison officials to notify the U.S. Embassy immediately. See our webpage for further information.

Individuals who were affiliated with the former militia known as the South Lebanon Army (SLA) and previously departed Lebanon because of their association with that group should carefully consider any plans to return to Lebanon. Alleged former members of the SLA have been detained on arrival and received threats to their physical security, even after receiving assurances from Lebanese officials and/or legal counsel in Lebanon that they could return safely.

Counterfeit and Pirated Goods: Although counterfeit and pirated goods are prevalent in many countries, they may still be illegal according to local laws. You may also pay fines or have to give them up if you bring them back to the United States. See the U.S. Department of Justice website for more information.

Faith-Based Travelers:   See the following webpages for details:

• Faith-Based Travel Information
• International Religious Freedom Report – see country reports
• Human Rights Report – see country reports
• Hajj Fact Sheet for Travelers
• Best Practices for Volunteering Abroad

LGBTQI+ Travelers: LGBTQI+ status and/or conduct is criminalized in Lebanon, and LGBTQI+ persons can face significant social stigma. Article 534 of the Lebanese Penal Code prohibits sexual relations, “contradicting the laws of nature,” an offense punishable by up to one year in prison. Although Lebanese courts have interpreted this provision in different ways and prosecutions are rare, judicial decisions can vary case-to-case and LGBTQI+ adults have been charged, tried, and convicted for engaging in consensual same-sex relations. Authorities have arrested LGBTQI+ individuals for minor offenses, then charged them with violation of Article 534 when evidence of their LGBTQI+ identity is uncovered, through searches of cell phones or other personal material. While prosecution is uncommon, short-term detentions can expose individuals to discrimination and abuse.

There has been a rise in anti-LGBTQI+ rhetoric from political and religious leaders, accompanied by an increase in online harassment, threats of violence, and violence against LGBTQI+ persons. In August 2023, members of an anti-LGBTQI+ religious group attacked an LGBTQI+ friendly establishment in the Mar Mikhael neighborhood of Beirut, reportedly threatening, assaulting, and injuring patrons. Gatherings, events, or items (including those with rainbows) perceived as “promoting homosexuality” have the potential of being scrutinized, monitored or disbanded by security forces.

While Lebanese authorities indicate that travelers entering Lebanon with passports showing X gender will be admitted without difficulty, the United States government cannot guarantee your entry or transit through other countries.

See our LGBTQI+ Travel Information page and section 6 of our Human Rights Report for further details.

Travelers with Disabilities: The law in Lebanon prohibits discrimination against persons with physical, sensory, intellectual or mental disabilities, but the law is unevenly enforced. Social acceptance of persons with disabilities in public is relatively low. Some facilities and information have been made accessible, but such standard accessibility is not common. Expect infrastructure accessibility to be limited in urban areas, and even more so in the rest of the country. There are a handful of hotels that are partially accessible in the Beirut area. Some transportation companies do provide accessible services. Events and activities are rarely designed to be inclusive.

Service providers for people with disabilities, such as sign language interpreters or personal assistants, are available but limited in Lebanon. The best way to find assistance is to contact organizations for people with disabilities such as the Lebanese Union for Persons with Physical Disabilities, the Youth Association of the Blind, the Lebanese Federation of the Deaf, or the Lebanese Association for Self Advocacy.

Students:  See our Students Abroad page and FBI travel tips .

 Exit Bans: U.S. citizens living in or traveling in Lebanon are sometimes denied permission to depart the country because a criminal, civil, or family court has imposed an exit ban. For example, a head of household can place an exit ban against a spouse and children even before the family arrives in Lebanon. Easily initiated, exit bans remain in place for prolonged periods and can only be removed by petition from an attorney. The U.S. Embassy cannot have exit bans removed, even in times of crisis. An attorney’s list is available on U.S. Embassy Beirut’s website .

Women Travelers: See our travel tips for Women Travelers .

Dual Citizenship: U.S. citizens who also hold Lebanese nationality are considered by local authorities to be Lebanese, even when entering Lebanon using a U.S. passport. Lebanese-U.S. citizens who are suspected of association with Israeli citizens or officials, or to have traveled through Israel, are subject to detention, arrest, and prosecution. Their passports may be retained by Lebanese authorities on arrival, and they must appear at the Lebanese Military court the next business day for investigation, after which their passports may be returned if no connections with Israel are confirmed. U.S. citizen dual nationals of other Arab countries who arrive at a Lebanese point of entry with an Israeli stamp in their passports will be denied entry and may be detained or arrested. Travelers with a family name deemed to be of Israeli or Jewish origin may also be questioned or detained.

Travelers who have previously entered Lebanon illegally under Lebanese law, whether as refugees or for transit to a third country, may be denied entry, even if they are or have since become U.S. citizens.

Middle Eastern Heritage: U.S. citizens with names reflecting Middle Eastern heritage may face additional scrutiny at Lebanese ports of entry and may be required to show documentary evidence of their parentage: specifically, official proof of their father’s name such as a copy of their birth certificate.

Marrying in Lebanon: More than 18 separate and distinct religious sects solemnize marriages in Lebanon. Civil marriage is not available. U.S. citizen and Lebanese national couples should familiarize themselves with the rights and responsibilities of marriage as defined by the religion performing their marriage. They should be aware that religious clerics and religious courts dictate all personal status matters related to marriage, divorce, and child custody. In matters of marriage, child custody, inheritance, and divorce, personal status laws provide unequal treatment across the various confessional court systems but generally discriminate against women.  Nationality law also discriminates against women, who may not confer citizenship to their spouses and children. Civil marriages performed outside of Lebanon and registered with Lebanon’s Ministry of the Interior fall under civil court jurisdiction regarding divorce and child custody.

Military Service Obligation: Mandatory military service in Lebanon was abolished in 2007. However, travelers with questions about prior military service, desertion, or failure to register in the past should contact the Embassy of Lebanon in Washington, D.C. for details prior to traveling to Lebanon.

Customs: Lebanese customs authorities may enforce strict regulations concerning import and export of items, such as firearms, military paraphernalia, professional camera equipment, other communications equipment, or antiquities. You should contact the Embassy of Lebanon in Washington, D.C., for specific information regarding customs requirements. Please see our information on customs regulations .

For emergency services in Lebanon dial 112.

Ambulance services are:

• not widely available and training and availability of emergency responders may be below U.S. standards.
• not equipped with state-of-the-art medical equipment.
• Injured or seriously ill travelers may prefer to take a taxi or private vehicle to the nearest major hospital rather than wait for an ambulance.

We do not pay the medical bills.  Be aware that U.S. Medicare/Medicaid does not apply overseas. Most hospitals and doctors overseas do not accept U.S. health insurance.

Medical Insurance:  Make sure your health insurance plan provides coverage overseas. Most care providers overseas only accept cash payments. See our webpage for more information on insurance providers for overseas coverage. Visit the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention for more information on type of insurance you should consider before you travel overseas.

We strongly recommend supplemental insurance to cover medical evacuation.

Always carry your prescription medication in original packaging, along with your doctor’s prescription. Check with the Lebanon Ministry of Health to ensure the medication is legal in Lebanon.

Vaccinations:  Be up-to-date on all  vaccinations  recommended by the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.

Further health information:

• World Health Organization
• U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention  (CDC)

Air Quality:  Visit  AirNow Department of State  for information on air quality at U.S. Embassies and Consulates.

Water Quality:  In all areas, tap water is not potable. Bottled water and beverages are generally safe.

Health facilities in general:

• Adequate health facilities are available in Beirut, but health care in rural areas may be below U.S. standards.
• Public medical clinics lack basic resources and supplies.
• Hospitals and doctors often require payment “up front” prior to service or admission. Credit card payment is not always accepted; most hospitals and medical professionals require cash payment, often in U.S. dollars.
• Private hospitals usually require advance payment or proof of adequate insurance before admitting a patient.
• Medical staff may have limited English proficiency.
• Patients bear all costs for transfer to or between hospitals.
• Psychological and psychiatric services are limited, even in the larger cities.

Pharmaceuticals      

• Due to the current economic situation in Lebanon, many medications are not available in pharmacies and medical facilities.
• Exercise caution when purchasing medication outside the United States. Pharmaceuticals, both over the counter and requiring prescription in the United States, are often readily available for purchase with little controls. Medication should be purchased in consultation with a medical professional and from reputable establishments .
• Always carry your prescription medication in original packaging, along with your doctor’s prescription. Check with the Ministry of Health to ensure the medication is legal in Lebanon.
• U.S. Customs and Border Protection and the Food and Drug Administration are responsible for rules governing the transport of medication back to the United States. Medication purchased abroad must meet their requirements to be legally brought back into the United States. Medication should be for personal use and must be approved for usage in the United States. Please visit the U.S. Customs and Border Protection and the Food and Drug Administration websites for more information.

The U.S. Embassy maintains a list of doctors and hospitals . We do not endorse or recommend any specific medical provider or clinic.

Travel and Transportation

Road Conditions and Safety:  Road conditions differ significantly from those in the United States. In certain areas, pedestrians have minimal access to sidewalks and are forced to walk along the sides of busy roadways. There are very few bicycle lanes designated for cyclists, and drivers are unaccustomed to sharing the road with cyclists. Beirut streets and highway lanes are known for their heavy traffic congestion and aggressive driving. Lanes are generally unmarked, and roads outside the capital may be poorly lighted.

Drivers generally will find inter-city directional signs and street markers, but side roads often bear no signposts.

An international driver’s license is required for visitors to Lebanon. Please refer to our Road Safety page and the website of Lebanon’s National Tourist Office for more information.

Traffic Laws:

• Drivers must carry a valid driver’s license, registration and proof of insurance while driving. Licenses are issued to those at least 18 years of age.
• Drivers must obey speed limits and traffic lights, and yield to ambulances, fire engines, and other emergency vehicles.
• Radar detection devices are prohibited.
• Seat belts are compulsory for both front and rear passengers in all vehicles, and helmets are mandatory for cyclists and motorcycle riders.
• A hazard triangle in the vehicle is mandatory.
• Driving under the influence of alcohol and drugs is prohibited, as are open alcohol containers in a vehicle
• Cell phone use while driving is prohibited, except with a hands-free system.
• Children under the age of 5 must be secured in a car seat, and children under the age of 10 may not sit in a front seat or be carried on a motorcycle.

A comprehensive listing of Lebanese traffic laws (in Arabic) is available on the website of the Lebanese Internal Security Forces (ISF).

Public Transportation:  In general, public transportation in Lebanon is safe. Buses operate throughout the country but serve a primarily working-class clientele. Taxis are widely available and rideshare services are also active in Lebanon. See our Road Safety page for more information.

Aviation Safety Oversight:   As there is no direct commercial air service to the United States by carriers registered in Lebanon, the U.S. Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) has not assessed the government of Lebanon’s Civil Aviation Authority for compliance with International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO) aviation safety standards. Further information may be found on the  FAA’s safety assessment page .

Because of the risks to civil aviation operating in airspace immediately adjacent to the Damascus Flight Information Region (FIR), the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) has issued a Notice to Air Missions (NOTAM) and/or a Special Federal Aviation Regulation (SFAR) that prohibits U.S. and codeshare flights from flying through the Damascus FIR and advises caution for flights operating in the airspace within 200 nautical miles of the Damascus FIR due to heightened military activity in or around Syria.

For more information, U.S. citizens should consult the  Federal Aviation Administration's Prohibitions, Restrictions, and Notices .

Maritime Travel:  “The U.S. Coast Guard has concerns about the safety practices in the Port of Beirut and finds that the Lebanese Ministry of Public Works and Transport has not fully implemented the International Ship and Port Facility Security Code. As a result, the U.S. Coast Guard conducts additional screenings of ships that have stopped in Lebanon prior to arrival in the United States.  Assessments by the U.S. Coast Guard indicate that Mariners and passengers traveling through the Port of Beirut should exercise caution.”

Mariners planning travel to Lebanon should also check for U.S. maritime advisories and alerts within the MARAD website . Information may also be posted to the U.S. Coast Guard homeport website , and the NGA broadcast warnings website . Navigational warnings can be found under the “Current Warnings” section for the applicable NAVAREA from within the NGA site.

For additional travel information

• Enroll in the  Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP)  to receive security messages and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
• Call us in Washington, D.C. at 1-888-407-4747 (toll-free in the United States and Canada) or 1-202-501-4444 (from all other countries) from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m., Eastern Standard Time, Monday through Friday (except U.S. federal holidays).
• See the  State Department’s travel website  for the  Worldwide Caution  and  Travel Advisories .
• Follow us on X (formerly known as "Twitter") and Facebook .
• See  traveling safely abroad  for useful travel tips.

Review information about International Parental Child Abduction in  Lebanon . For additional IPCA-related information, please see the  International Child Abduction Prevention and Return Act (ICAPRA)  report.

Travel Advisory Levels

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Ultimate Lebanon Travel Guide

The ultimate travel guide to lebanon.

Last Updated: 22 Feb 2023.

This guide will tell you everything you need to know for visiting Lebanon during the current crisis, updated regularly with the latest pandemic travel restrictions and for changes caused by Lebanon’s current crises.  I have lived in Lebanon for the past three years ( narrowly surviving the 2020 port explosion ) and have visited almost every inch of this beautiful and crazy country.

Lebanon was a beautiful country with vibrant cities and beautiful ancient historic sites before the multiple crises that began in 2019.  And actually, it still is.  With a bit of planning, it’s still possible to have an amazing trip here, despite the political crisis, economic crisis, electricity shortages, frequent protests and the after effects of the port explosion.

The 2,200 year old Roman temple of Bacchus, the wine god, in Baalbek.

Places to Visit

One of the best things about Lebanon is that almost any area can be visited as a day trip from Beirut.  You can choose to do the below as a series of day trips or stay overnight in different cities as you travel.  Staying overnight reduces the time spent travelling, but also means you have to take everything with you as you travel.

In my opinion, the real must see place in Beirut are the Raouche (Pigeon) rocks, which are a beautiful place to watch the sunset.  If you’re feeling adventurous, take the path down the cliff from the viewing point next to the Bay Rock Cafe (opposite Starbucks) and sit on the rocks opposite Raouche.  From there, not only do you get a beautiful view of the rocks themselves, but also of the sun setting over the Mediterranean Sea.  It’s a great place to enjoy a couple of beers or a bottle of wine.  

The best place to view Pigeon Rocks (left, with people gathered). Also a great location to take a bottle of wine for a romantic sunset date.

One of the joys of Beirut is just strolling through its vibrant neighbourhoods.  I particularly recommend Hamra, which is an interesting mix of old and new, with boutique shops, bars and restaurants.  Gemayze and Mar Mikhael, the main bar district, are also gradually coming back to life after the port explosion destroyed them in 2020.  Zaytuna Bay is a chance to see the more upmarket side of Beirut.

The centre of the Beirut Souks area, including the iconic clock tower in Place de L’Etoile and the Roman baths, has reopened after being cordoned off by the military due to protests for the past two and a half years.  Until recently, it was still possible to enter the ‘egg,’ an abandoned cinema building purportedly left to remind people of the atrocities of the civil war (it’s full of bullet holes), but unfortunately the authorities have now built a fence around it to keep people out.  

The National Museum of Beirut reopened to tourists in summer 2021 and is currently open daily.  Be sure not to miss the ‘mummy room’ on the basement level, which houses three mummies from the Qadisha Valley.  It’s a little temperature-controlled room in a corner and easy to miss if you don’t know it’s there.

The Beirut ‘egg’ (abandoned cinema) and the main mosque.

The Jeita Grottoes & Byblos

The Jeita Grottoes, located slightly to the north of Beirut, are spectacular and conveniently located not far from the coastal highway up to Byblos, making the two a convenient day trip.  You can also choose to stay overnight in Byblos before heading further up north.

At the Jeita Grottoes, you have to leave your phone in a little locker near the entrance, as they don’t allow photographs.  It doesn’t look very secure, but I’ve never heard of anyone having problems.  

The main attraction of Byblos is wandering the beautiful historic centre, with its ancient Mediterranean architecture, beautiful flowers growing up the walls and in some cases across nets over the streets and cute boutiques, bars and restaurants.  There’s also an ancient citadel that’s worth checking out and the picturesque little harbour.  

If you’re looking for something a little adventurous, walk along the right hand wall of the harbour (as you’re facing out to sea) until you reach the ancient tower at the harbour entrance.  From here, with a bit of care, you can climb up to the top of the tower for amazing sunset views, often without any other people.  

If the beach is more your thing, slightly north of the harbour you’ll find a pebble beach that’s great for swimming in the summer (approximately May to October).  Finally, Byblos is home to Fenicia restaurant, in my opinion one of the best restaurants in the whole of Lebanon.  

Byblos harbour is beautiful day and night.

A pretty seaside town in the north of Lebanon, Batroun is nice for an afternoon to wander it’s old town, which is basically a less touristy version of Byblos.  In the Batroun area there are several off-the-beaten-track places that are worth checking out if you have time:

• The Msailha fort, just up the main highway from the city, is small but impressive, standing alone on a huge rock (it’s also free to enter).  The location is here on Google Maps .
• The Rock of Hamat, a giant rock painted in the colours of the Lebanese flag, on the edge of the old cliffside road from Batroun to Chekka.  The location is here on Google Maps .
• The cliffside walk though the old road tunnel to the north of the cliffside road from Batroun to Chekka.  Go to coordinates 34.311459, 35.681865 ( here on Google Maps ) and then take the footpath on the left hand side of the road before the current tunnel entrance.
• For the more adventurous travellers, the disused railway tunnel.  To reach the entrance, after the current road tunnel walk about 100m then go down the footpath on the left hand side of the road.  Two thirds of the way down, there’s a little bank on the left that you can scramble up (about 2-3m).  The entrance to the tunnel is at the top of this bank.

The spectacular Mseilha Fort, just outside of Batroun.

Much of the time, Lebanon doesn’t feel like the Middle East.  There are no deserts, no camels (apart from a couple in Chouf that were imported from Saudi just to entertain tourists) and many of the main cities, including Beirut, Byblos and Batroun, have more of a Mediterranean feel than a Middle Eastern feel.  And then you reach Tripoli.  Check out the old souk (market) and the citadel.  The souk seems to close around sunset at the moment, possibly due to a lack of power after dark.  

Tripoli’s Corniche is, in my opinion, not as nice as Beirut’s, but Al Mina, the old town, is quaint and has several nice restaurants, including The Sailor Woman, my favourite seafood restaurant in Lebanon.  If you have plenty of time, you can also catch a boat from the Corniche to Palm Island, which has the biggest sandy beach in the north of Lebanon.  It’s a nice place to chill out and swim in the sea.  

Beach Day on Rabbit Island with a group of crazy Couchsurfers.

Anjar & Baalbek

The Roman ruins at Baalbek are some of the most spectacular in the world, especially the enormous temple of Bacchus, the wine God (gotta love Roman priorities).  That’s why you should visit Anjar first!  Anjar is beautiful and spectacular, but after Baalbek, it will seem small and insignificant in comparison.  Don’t forget to try sfeeha, the local delicacy, while you’re in Baalbek.  Baalbek is also home to the Sayyida Khawla shrine, one of the most beautiful and historic Shia shrines in Lebanon.

Local believe that Khawla, daughter of Imam al-Husayn, is buried in this tomb, although historians aren’t sure that Imam al-Husayn even had a daughter.

Baalbek has a bad reputation for safety, but this generally refers to other parts of Baalbek governorate, not Baalbek city.  If you’re concerned about safety, just don’t go north of the city (and definitely keep away from Arsel, which has a justifiably rough reputation).

Saida & Mleeta

Saida has probably the most beautiful souk (market) in the whole of Lebanon, full of ancient stone archways and local people hawking traditional wares (and delicious Arab sweets).  There’s also the small but worth-a-visit Dabane Palace Museum, a soap museum and the Hammam el-Sheikh traditional bathhouse.  The seafort on the waterfront is also worth a visit (although more spectacular from the outside than inside).  If you want a beer, go to Resthouse, a restaurant next to the seafort that is the only place in Saida allowed to sell alcohol.  Its garden is also a great place to take photos of the seafort.

Mleeta is a tiny village in the mountains that is home to probably the most well-maintained museum in Lebanon – The Hezbollah Museum.  Here, a free English-speaking guide will take you around and tell you about the various wars against Israel and Hezbollah’s role in protecting and driving out the enemy.  Whatever your political views, the museum is very well done and worth a visit.  It’s located about a 40-minute drive up into the mountains above Saida.

The Saida seafort – a castle in the sea.

One of the oldest cities in the world, Tyre is home to an ancient Roman Hippodrome.  The site itself is a bit rundown now, but the ruins are still impressive.  There’s also a pretty little old town with less tourists than other cities in Lebanon and a colourful harbour full of fishing boats.  The restaurants next to it are worth checking out for some fresh seafood too.  To the south of the city is Lebanon’s longest sandy beach.  This was affected by the oil spill off Israel in 2021, but is now clean again and safe for swimming.  

Tyre’s colourful harbour – a great place to eat fresh seafood.

The Northern Mountains

There are many beautiful places to visit in the northern mountains of Lebanon, aside from just the pleasure of driving through the local villages and the often breathtaking scenery.  The three I would recommend for visitors are:

• The 2,000 year old olive trees in Bchaleeh, which are supposedly the oldest in the world.  Local legends say that the olive branch from the story of Noah’s Ark came from one of these trees, but you can make up your own mind.   The location is clearly marked on Google Maps .
• The viewpoint at Aqoura.  Climb the rocky hill opposite the church for spectacular 360 degree views).   The start point is at Saydat Al Qarn church ( here on Google Maps ).
• The Batarra Waterfall.  This 255m (837 ft) waterfall, which passes through several layers of Jurassic limestone rock, is definitely the most beautiful in Lebanon.  It’s best visited in the spring when there is plenty of meltwater.  I went in early August once and there was no water at all.
• The Cedars of God.  At possibly 2,500 years old, the Cedars of God are some of the oldest cedar trees in the world and a UNESCO world heritage site to boot.

You will need a car to reach these locations, or you could try hitchhiking.  

The 255m Batarra waterfall. Try throwing a stone down into the chasm below and see how long it takes before you near it hit the bottom.

The Chouf Region

Home to the majority of the Druze population of Lebanon, the Chouf region also contains the country’s largest remaining cedar forests at the Chouf Biosphere Reserve.  This is a great place to do some hiking with trails from 5 minutes to a full day.  

The region also contains the Bettadine palace, which was built by the Ottomans, and the Moussa Palace, which was built over several decades by a crazy Lebanese man who wanted his own palace.  The latter contains a vast collection of ancient weapons and some very well done scenes from traditional Lebanese life, created with models animated in various ways.  I love the concept that the guy just suddenly decided to build himself a palace!

A traditional Lebanese scene in the Moussa Palace museum.

The Christian city of Jounieh used to be where Arabs from stricter countries in the Middle East went to party and unwind, as evidenced by the strip of hotels on the coast that look like they’ve seen better days.  Even now, the city is still home to Lebanon’s only casino, Casino du Liban, and a bunch of ‘super night clubs’ – basically stripclubs.

For tourists not looking for such things, the main attraction is Harissa, the hill behind the city with a statue of Our Lady of Lebanon on the top.  There is also a very nice (but steep) hike up from the city below through the dense forest with occasional views across the bay.  The start of the path is at coordinates 33.997710, 35.650976 ( here on Google Maps ).  Recommended for sunset.  

Hermel and Akkar

The far north of Lebanon is known as one of its most dangerous areas, but most reports are highly exaggerated.  The main attraction here is the 2,500 year-old Pyramid of Hermel, which I visited in 2021 .  Even now, no one’s quite sure who built it!  Worth a visit if you have the time, but its location in one of the most remote parts of the country means that it won’t fit many peoples’ itineraries.  

Nobody is sure why the Pyramid of Hermel was built.

The Far South (UNIFIL-Controlled Area)

The far south of Lebanon is interesting, because you can drive along beside the border wall with Israel, which is covered in security cameras and, in some places, graffiti similar to that seen in the Palestinian territories.  The coast at Naqoura also have the cleanest waters in Lebanon for swimming, thanks to the low population density and proximity to Israel, which has better sewage treatment facilities than Lebanon.  

The downside is that this area is under control of the UN peacekeeping force (UNIFIL) and foreigners need a permit to enter it.  See below the section on Entering the UNIFIL-Controlled Area for details of how to obtain the permit.  

This picturesque little village in the mountains near Saida is often overlooked by travellers, which is a pity, as it boasts one of Lebanon’s most spectacular waterfalls.  For hikers, the village is surrounded by Lebanon’s largest pine forest.  For those who want something darker, there’re also some interesting abandoned buildings leftover from Lebanon’s war of resistance against Israel to explore.  Read more in my dedicated Jezzine guide here.

The sea wall south of Naqoura

Suggested Itineraries

Pick and choose where to visit from the places above.  However, my suggestions are as follows:

Two-day Trip: Beirut – Jeita Grottoes & Byblos .  This is way too short, but spend one day wandering Beirut, watch the sunset at Raouche in the evening and then head to the Jeita Grottoes and Byblos on day 2.

Four-day Trip: Beirut – Jeita Grottoes & Byblos – Saida & Mleeta – Anjar & Baalbek.   Best to base yourself in Beirut for this itinerary, which covers the major highlights of the country.  

One-week (7 day) Trip: Beirut – Jeita Grottoes & Byblos – Tripoli – The Northern Mountains – Saida & Mleeta – The Southern Mountains – Anjar & Baalbek. This itinerary includes most of the highlights of the country with a variety of cities, ancient ruins and nature.

Two-week (14 day) Trip or Longe r : Beirut – Jeita Grottoes – Jounieh – Byblos – Batroun – Tripoli – The Northern Mountains – Anjar & Baalbek – Saida & Mleeta – Jezzine – The Southern Mountains – Tyre .  You could easily spend more than a day in many of the places listed here, making the trip more relaxing and enjoyable.  Alternatively, add in some hiking or visit some random villages in the mountains, many of which are beautiful.  

If you have the time, check out the Rock of Hamat near Batroun for a very Instagrammable pic.

I had no idea until I moved to Lebanon, but the country has some amazing hikes.  My personal favourites are the following:

• Qornet As Sawda (Black Peak) – The highest mountain in not only Lebanon, but the entire Levant region, and 5th highest in the Middle East, at 3,088m.  The landscape is like nothing else in the country, as barren as the moon.  It gets very cold near the top and is covered in snow from around November to May, so it’s best to avoid these times.  The hike starts from the Cedars ski resort near the Cedars of God and the first two hours follow the ski lifts.  The total hiking time is about 8 hours and it’s long, but not difficult.  
• The Chouf Biosphere Reserve – The largest cedar forests in Lebanon make for some beautiful hiking.  The reserve is clearly marked on Google Maps and is suitable for short or long hikes.
• The Qadisha Valley – Possibly the most beautiful place in the whole of Lebanon, a Colombian monk lives in a tiny monastery perched high on a cliff above the valley.  The path to the monastery is narrow with beautiful views and not particularly difficult, although the monk himself has stopped meeting visitors recently, due to the risk of Covid, as he is very old.
• Jabel Moussa Biosphere Reserve – There are many hikes here, from short 3-5km jaunts to 20km marathons and over steep mountain paths.  The highlight is Chouwen lake, which is a beautiful turquoise blue.  It’s also possible to swim in it during the summer.  
• Bkassine Pine Forest – The largest pine forest in Lebanon is riddled with beautiful hiking trails.  Check out my Jezzine guide for details .

The moonscape of Qornet As Sawda is like nothing else in the whole of Lebanon.

A rare near eastern fire salamander, spotted by yours truly while hiking in the Chouf region.

Anyone who thinks the Middle East is only desert and camels has never been to Lebanon – the lush green of the Qadisha Valley is like something out of a Disney film.

Impact of the Crisis – Electricity

Lebanon’s national grid currently only supplies about 1-2 hours of electricity per day to most parts of the country, due to a shortage of fuel, insufficient capacity and various other factors.  This is terrible if you’re local and don’t have a backup power supply.  However, for tourists it’s actually not that big a problem, as major hotels have good generators that provide 24/7 power and most restaurants and other businesses also have generators, if not all the time.

The best advice here is check with your hotel before visiting.  Some generators are not designed to run 24/7 and so buildings can have gaps without power.  My apartment currently has seven hours in 24 with no power, split between the night and morning, when they let the generator ‘rest.’

The electricity crisis has made the roads more dangerous – many street lights and traffic lights are not operating.  If you do drive in Lebanon, when you come to a junction without working traffic lights, just slow down and drive slowly through.  Most Lebanese drivers are very cautious at these junctions, as the economic crisis has made imported car parts astronomically expensive and no one wants to damage their car.  

Protests occasionally turn violent, but luckily protest areas are easily avoided by visitors.

Impact of the Crisis – Hyperinflation

The most important thing to remember is to bring enough cash for the duration of your stay.  The best currency to bring is USD, but other common currencies, such as EUR and GBP, can also be exchanged at black market rates.  Licensed currency exchange shops are now permitted to exchange currency at black market rates, so you no need to be hooked up with a black market dealer.  

Pro tip : before coming to Lebanon, download the Lira Rate or Lira Exchange app for your smartphone.  These apps show the current black market rates and, although the rate on the street is usually slightly lower, give you a good guide as to the approximate rate you should expect when changing money.

If you do run out of money in Lebanon, don’t withdraw money from an ATM if you can possibly avoid it.  ATMs currently operate at the official rate of 15,000 LBP to the USD, so you’re losing most of your money to the banks.  The same applies to paying for things priced in LBP with credit/debit cards.  ATMs no longer offer USD currency withdrawal for foreign bank cards.  The best approach for travellers is to use a currency transfer service like MoneyGram or Western Union, which allow you to transfer in foreign currency and collect it in USD.

One knock on effect of the economic crisis is that Lebanon is now significantly cheaper than it used to be.  Hotels have started charging foreigners in dollars again, but everything else, and especially food, is much cheaper than it was before.  A good Lebanese meal for two in a normal restaurant will usually cost about $15, including drinks.  In a slightly more upmarket restaurant, expect to pay around $30.  

The economic crisis is so bad that Batman had to trade in the Batmobile.

Impact of the Crisis – Safety

Crime rates in Lebanon are very low and, although they have risen recently as people become increasingly desperate, rates of petty theft are still lower than in most of Europe and criminals in general do not specifically target foreigners.  That said, the atmosphere can feel tense and the fortifications erected in some areas (lots of barbed wire, concrete barriers and patrolling soldiers) can give the impression that the safety situation is worse than it is.  

Most violent incidents that have been in the news recently have occurred during protests, often of a political nature.  If you do see the beginnings of a protest, such as groups of people marching together or tyres burning in the road, simply turn around and leave the area.  Protests usually start peacefully, but build to a point where the demonstrations spill over into violence.  Again, protests do not target foreigners, but there is a risk of being caught in the violence if you stick around.

An unfortunate legacy of the Lebanese civil war is that a lot of the populations still own guns.  At a recent protest in Beirut, not only were there shootings with machine guns, but the violence escalated with the use of RPGs.  This is an extreme case.  Again, I stayed away from the area.  

Guns are also often used at funerals or celebrations, where they are shot into the air in waves of celebratory gunfire.  Unfortunately, what goes up must come down, and people are occasionally killed by falling bullets or by bullets entering buildings through windows.  If you do hear shooting while you’re in a building, move to the interior, away from the windows and wait for it to subside.  If you’re outside, leave the area.  Funerals rarely happen in the city centre, which is the most interesting area for foreign travellers, so you probably won’t come across them anyway.  Furn El Chebek, Chiyah, Tariq El Jdideh and Jnah are common areas for funerals.

Lebanon is generally very safe. Even walking through the slummier neighbourhoods of Tripoli, Lebanon’s poorest city, I never felt unsafe.

Certain areas of Beirut experience violence far more than others.  In general, the southern suburbs of Beirurt, south of main road where the National Museum of Beirut is located, are less safe than the city centre.  In particular, Chiyah, Cola and Tayouneh and Tariq El Jdideh have all seen violent protests.  Martyr’s Square and the Beirut souks area also see frequent protests, but these tend to be less violent than those in the south.

As a tourist, the only areas you’re likely to visit to the south are Badaro (an upmarket bar street) and the Cola Intersection, as it’s the main hub for public transport to the south and the Bekaa Valley.  I visit these locations regularly and have never had problems, but keep an eye out just in case.

This may all sound very scary, but actually Lebanon is very safe for tourists.  Even now, by far the most dangerous thing is the roads, where accidents are frequent.  Just use a bit of common sense and you’ll be fine.

Impact of the Crisis – Fuel

One of the best ways to see Lebanon, and especially the more remote parts, is to rent a car and drive yourself.  During the summer of 2021, fuel became extremely difficult to obtain, often requiring queuing for hours (if you can even find a fuel station that’s open).  The only other option was to purchase it on the blackmarket at vastly inflated prices.

The good news is that, since the end of September 2021, fuel has been readily available again.  The government has let the price of fuel rise to close to market value, which has reduced incentives for fuel hoarding and smuggling to Syria.  

Bikers queuing for fuel at the peak of the fuel crisis in 2021

Ethics – Should I Visit Lebanon During the Crisis?

With frequent power cuts and shortages of some products, many people question whether they should visit a country while it’s in crisis, as they feel they may be using limited resources that are needed by the local population.  In the case of Lebanon, the answer is definitely yes, you should visit.  Lebanon produces very little domestically – even 80%+ of food is imported.  Shortages are not caused by a lack of supply on global markets, they’re caused by a lack of financial means to purchase supply (compounded by corruption and a range of other factors).  

By visiting Lebanon, you are bringing much needed foreign currency into the country and, by buying products and services from local businesses, ensuring that it reaches local people who need it.  One of the biggest problems for Lebanese people is that the value of the LBP to the dollar is so low, which makes imports expensive.  Everytime there is a large influx of visitors, for example with the Lebanese diaspora returning home over Christmas, the LBP gains value, helping local people.  This shows the positive effect that an influx of foreign currency has and, as an individual your contribution will be small, but will certainly be positive.  In other words, don’t feel bad about visiting!

Lebanese people are very good at enjoying life, even in the middle of a crisis.

One of the best ways to see Lebanon is to rent a car.  Car rentals are cheap now (about $20/day for a small car, including insurance) and Lebanon is a very car-based society.  A deposit of around $100 is often requested in cash for your first rental.  So far, I’ve not heard of any problems having this refunded.  In theory, an International Driver’s Permit is required, but in reality no one cares, at least not if your local driver’s licence is in English, French or Arabic.

I usually rent from Mike Rent-a-Car, which is a good option if you want to support local businesses.  The price is generally $20-30/day depending on the season for a small car and their Website is at www.mikerentacar.com .  Their office in Beirut is located here .  Alternatively, the big international car rental companies, such as Avis and Europcar , also operate in Lebanon.  They also have the advantage of having a presence at the airport, so you don’t need to bother with other transport to get to your accommodation. 

Cars and Drivers

If you don’t feel confident driving in Lebanon, it is possible to hire a car and driver from a hotel or hostel. This can cost upwards from around $70 a day plus fuel, but hotels may charge significantly more.

Ride Hailing Apps

Uber and Bolt both work well in Beirut.  Bolt is usually slightly cheaper, but Uber cars are generally in better condition and the drivers are more professional.  These apps are also by far the cheapest way to get to or from the airport in Beirut.  Just be sure to change the payment method to cash, as credit cards are billed at the official exchange rate so you’ll end up paying $50 for a 5-minute trip across town.

Public Transport

Lebanon has an informal public transport network made up for service (shared) taxis and minibuses.  These are operated privately with pricing regulated by the government.  There are also public buses from Beirut to Tripoli.  Vehicles licensed for public transport, including taxis, all have red number plates (or red lettering on the number plate).

To catch a service (shared) taxi, stand on the edge of a road (main roads are usually better) and hold out your arm when a taxi comes past (look for the red number plates).  Ask the driver “Service?”  If he agrees, it means the taxi is shared, so you will not be charged for a private journey.  Then tell him your destination.  If he’s going in the right direction and willing to take you there, he’ll agree.  Finally, ask him the price.  Most drivers are very honest, but a few do try to overcharge foreigners.  

Inside Beirut

Service taxis operate throughout Beirut, although explaining the destination can be tricky.  Often, the easiest approach is just to say the name of the area, such as “Hamra,” “Gemayze,” “Daora,” or “Cola.”  Minibuses on set routes also operate, but finding the routes is extremely difficult, so use the same approach as when taking a service and ask the driver whether he goes to your destination.  Prices for service taxis are just over $1 and for minibuses around $0.50.

Northern Lebanon

Shared taxis and minibuses run from the Daora roundabout in Beirut up the coastal highway to Jounieh, Byblos, Batroun and Tripoli.  Prices vary, but are cheap, starting at about $1 to Jounieh.  Just ask the drivers whether they go to the city you want to reach.

For Tripoli, there’s also a bus that runs on an actual schedule from Martyr’s Square in Beirut.  

Their current schedule can be found on their Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/connexion.transportation . 

Southern Lebanon and the Bekaa Valle y

Minibuses run from the Cola Intersection in southern Beirut down the coastal highway to Saida and Tyre, as well as to Baalbek in the Bekaa Valley and to the Chouf region.  To visit the Chouf Biosphere Reserve, catch the bus to Barouk, the name of the nearest village.  From there, you need to walk several kilometres to enter the reserve and there is no public transport.  Hitchhiking could be an option. 

To reach Anjar, take the minibus to Baalbek and get off at Chtoura.  From here, there are other minibuses running to Anjar.  

The Jeita Grottoes

The Jeita Grottoes are located about halfway between Beirut and Byblos, approximately 5km from the highway.  Take public transport from the Daora roundabout and get off at the Ajaltoun exit of the main highway (coordinates 33.960616, 35.604071, here on Google Maps ).  From here you can either walk (5km uphill) or take a taxi.  There are usually several drivers hanging around this area, although prices can be high and will depend on your negotiation skills.  To get back to the highway afterwards, you can usually find a driver in the Jeita Grottoes carpark.  Another good option to reach the Jeita Grottoes is to take an Uber all the way from Beirut.  Uber is cheap in Lebanon, so this works out around the same price.

I’m not aware of any public transport option to reach this area of the country (including Aqoura, the Batara waterfall and the Cedars of God), so your options are really driving or hitchhiking.  

The view from Aqoura – there is still snow on the mountains in early May.  The northern mountains are a pain to get to without a car, but worth the effort.

Transport to and from Beirut Airport

Uber is a cheap and convenient way to get to or from the airport in Beirut.  This should cost around $6.  However, this can be tricky when first arriving, due to needing to obtain Lebanese pounds to pay the driver.  If the exchange counter at the airport is not open or the rate is bad, you can try negotiating with the Uber driver to pay in USD at the black market rate.

There are always plenty of local taxis waiting at the airport to take you to the city centre.  These often try to charge ridiculous rates to foreigners – up to $50 for the 10-15 minute journey.  With a bit of bargaining, you should be able to agree on around $10.

Checkpoints

There are military checkpoints on the roads throughout Lebanon and even within some parts of Beirut.  Generally, they wave foreigners through without saying anything.  If driving yourself, slowdown at the checkpoint, wind down the window and greet the soldier.  Most times, he’ll wave you though before you even come to a stop.  

In my two years here during which I’ve travelled the country extensively, I’ve been asked twice for my nationality and had my passport checked once (so carry it with you, just in case), and that was on the road between Hermel and Qobayat, one of the most remote parts of the country.

Entering the UNIFIL-Controlled Area

The only exception to the above is the checkpoints for entering the UNIFIL-controlled area south of the Litani river near the border with Israel.  Foreigners can only enter with a permit obtained in advance (with the exception of UN employees).  To obtain the permit, visit the police headquarters in Saida with your passport.  The police station is at coordinates 33.550327, 35.381710 ( here on Google Maps ).  You need to bring your passport and colour photocopies of the identity page and your entry stamp to Lebanon (and visa, if you come from a country that needs a visa to enter Lebanon).  It generally takes less than one hour and permits can be issued for entry on the same day.  Permits can be obtained for one or multiple days.

Northern Israel, as viewed over the imposing border wall in south Lebanon.

Recently (as of early 2023), the black market exchange rate has been hovering around the 80,000 LBP to the USD rate, whereas the official rate is 15,000 LBP.  Previously, currency exchange shops were prohibited from giving the black market rate, but the government has relaxed this rule, so any currency exchange shop can exchange money for you.  Just make sure you bring plenty of cash.

Whatever you do, don’t use a foreign bank card in an ATM or to pay in shops.  The banks still apply the official rate, so you’ll be paying several times the real price.  

Pre-crisis, these notes were worth about $66 each. Now they’re worth around $3.

Mobile Phone Service and SIM Cards

Lebanon has good mobile Internet even in most rural areas.  SIM cards are widely available from mobile phone shops.  I use Alpha, which has good 4G coverage across most of the country.  Passports are not required to obtain a SIM.  Prices fluctuate, but a SIM card with 6GB of data valid for one month can be obtained for around $20.  I have been warned to check that the seller gives you the packaging to ensure that it’s not a reused, although I’m not sure what the problem would be with this..  

Restaurants and Coffee Shops

One of the greatest pleasures of visiting Lebanon is the food.  This list is by no means exhaustive, but here are my favourite restaurants.  I happen to like coffee a lot, so I’ve also slung in a few coffee shop recommendations for good measure.

• Resto Ghazar: My favourite Lebanese-Armenian restaurant.  Try the soubeureg (cheese pastries), mouhamara (pomegranate with nuts) and manti.  Although not Armenian, their batata harra (spicy potatoes with coriander) is also out of this world.  Prices are very reasonable, at about $10-15 a person, including drinks.  
• Ohannes Restaurant: Another great Armenian restaurant, with beautiful tiled decor.  The food is also great, especially the Ohannes salad and fried liver.  This place is a bit more upmarket at about $15-25 per person, including drinks.
• T-Marbouta: A variety of great Lebanese food in the heart of Hamra with a nice outdoor seating area.  About $8-15 a person, including drinks.
• Sawani Falfoul: A great place for breakfast in Badaro, an upmarket bar street.  In particular, try the foul (a kind of chickpea soup, pronounced like the word “fool” in English), shakshuka (scrambled egg with tomato) and hummus (the “Malaysian” hummus is particularly good, if not very Lebanese sounding).
• Barbar Restaurant: Basic but tasty Lebanese barbeque restaurant in Hamra.  Not sure of the current price, but cheap!
• Le Chef: A traditional Lebanese restaurant that claims to be the oldest in Lebanon, although my Lebanese friends tell me that this is bullshit.  The place has a lot of character and was saved from bankruptcy by a donation from Russel Crow, who once ate there, after being destroyed in the port explosion in August 2020.
• Notes Speciality Coffee: My local coffee place.  Great brews and the chance to meet me if you’re there in the morning (I often work from there).  

Quail eggs with basterma (seasoned meat) – an Armenian-Lebanese delicacy.

• Fenicia: This restaurant is so good that I have hardly eaten anywhere else in Byblos.  Up there with Resto Ghazar as one of my two favourite restaurants in Lebanon.  The environment is elegant and the food is absolutely out-of-this-world.  The cheese/shrimp rolls and the mixed grill plata are my recommendations.  Prices are about $15-25 per person, including drinks.  The only problem is that they don’t take reservations and getting a seat can be difficult.  

Byblos has many local restaurants, like this Italian one, where you can sit outside and enjoy the old town vibe.

• The Colonel Brewery: Lebanon’s most famous craft beer brewery, the Colonel recently opened a restaurant with a view of the Mediterranean and a great selection of fresh seafood.  Try the delicious raw fish if you’re feeling adventurous.  A meal for two including drinks is around $30.
• Barrio 67: Not Lebanese cuisine, but delicious international food and nice decoration in the heart of the old town.  Prices are about $15-25 per person, including drinks. 
• The Sailor Woman: this cute little restaurant serves only six dishes – fish with tahini, calamari, octopus, french fries, fattouch (traditional Lebanese green salad) and Tabbouleh (traditional Lebanese salad with Parsley).  What makes it so special is that all the cooking is done by a little old lady in her apartment, which is just next to the restaurant.  The fish is also very fresh, as Tripoli is the centre of the Lebanese fishing industry.  
• Newtown Coffee: Great place to take a break from sightseeing and chill.  Nice environment and good coffee.  

My favourite fish in Tahini at The Sailor Woman restaurant.

Be sure to try some Lebanese sweets, which can be found across the country.

• Foul Abou El Ezz: Another breakfast place, simple, very local and delicious.  Try the foul (a kind of chickpea soup, pronounced like the word “fool” in English) and hummus.  
• Green’s Coffee: One of my favourite coffee shops in Lebanon with a great selection of coffees and even a deli counter.  The environment is top-notch with a nice retro feel.  
• Resthouse: Overpriced (although still cheap by international standards), but with a great view of the Seafort and the only place allowed to sell alcohol in Saida.  Perfect for a beer with a view on a hot summer’s day.

A man making local sweets at a little bakery in the winding streets of Saida’s old bazaar.

• Local sfeeha place: On the main street of Baalbek, on the left as you’re walking away from the Roman ruins, you’ll come across what is basically a traditional oven in a room on the edge of the street with a few tables outside (approx. coordinates: 34.005245, 36.208302, here on Google Maps ).   They make one dish – delicious sfeeha, the traditional meat pastry originally from Baalbek – and they make it really well.  It’s a while since I’ve been there, so not sure of the exact price, but twenty sfeeha cost a few dollars.

Local sfiha meat pastries being prepared for the brick oven.

• Fresh seafood: Tyre has a wonderful selection of reasonably-priced fresh seafood restaurants overlooking the harbour.  The location is at 33.274307, 35.194684 ( here on Google Maps ) and there are several small restaurants with harbour views nearby.  Prices start from about $10 a person, including drinks.

Accommodation

Hotels recently switched to charging foreign tourists in USD and so the prices are roughly the same as before the crisis.  You may be able to negotiate a deal with some of the smaller places when you’re here, but that’s tricky to do in advance.  AirBNB can be a very good option and relatively cheap.  With any accommodation, check the hours that they have electricty before booking.

Couchsurfing

Lebanon has an active Couchsurfing community.  Many people here host travellers and there are often events organised.  If you’re looking to meet local people, this is a great way to do it.  

Covid-19, PCR Tests and Entry Requirements

As of 28 September 2022, the Lebanese government cancelled all Covid-related requirements for entering Lebanon.  Once in the country there are also no longer restrictions and masks are not required.  

PCR tests are not required for departure from Beirut airport.  However, if you need one for your next destination, they can be obtained at many hospitals in Lebanon.  I have used Hotel Dieu de France hospital in the past. There’s also a lab that will send someone to your accommodation to do the test for you.  It’s very convenient and the results are available same day, sent via WhatsApp.  They can be contacted on WhatsApp at +961 3 444 925.  Wherever you do the test, it will have a QR code.  Prices vary depending on the exchange rate, but are generally around $10-12.

More about Lebanon

After two years living in Lebanon, I’ve visited almost every inch of the country.  You can read about my adventures here:

Jezzine Travel Guide

Why Visit Jezzine?  The picturesque village of Jezzine is perched high on a cliff top overlooking the incredible Jezzine waterfall - at 90m (295ft), one of the highest waterfalls in Lebanon.  It’s also practically surrounded by Bkassine forest, the largest pine forest...

Hermel & Beyond: Road Tripping Remote Lebanon

Hermel & Beyond: Road Tripping Remote Lebanon As a Scot, I’m used to living in countries far bigger than my own.  Lebanon is the exception - the entire country is only about 200km long and 80km wide at its widest point.  So how, you might ask, can there be ‘remote...

Looking for even more great ideas?  Here’s another in-depth travel guide to Lebanon by Romana and Jakub at Broken Naviation, including hotel recommendations for all budgets (living here I don’t stay in hotels much).  They have some really beautiful photographs too.  Check it out here:

• How to Travel to Lebanon in 2022 & 11 Days Itinerary

Don’t forget to leave a comment below if you enjoyed the article or have questions!

Beirut is one crazy beautiful city in one crazy beautiful country. I can’t not love it.

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30 Comments

Wow, this is a great post. Thank you so much. We’re travelling to Lebanon for a week in May (9th – 15th) and were a bit unsure of what to see/do because of the crisis. This has helped a lot. I’m coming with a friend. Hit me up if you’d like to hang out.

Hey mate, great to hear the guide was helpful. I’m actually outside the country travelling Sudan at the moment (another amazing place), so won’t be around on those dates. Enjoy Lebanon!

I absolutely love this guide. I am a 50plus woman who travels around the world and I am in Egypt now. I want to go and spend a month there in June/July and would love to contact people who want to meet and Argentina my age or around my age. I am not rich, my country goes through the same struggles than Lebanon with the second highest inflation in the world. I do have a website on the works and I can recommend your site, I believe the only waay we can make a change is to share

Hi Monica, that’s great. I’m sure you’ll enjoy Lebanon a lot. For meeting people, you might want to try Couch Surfing. The community in Lebanon is quite active.

Thank you so much for the useful information. I’m travelling to Lebanon for a week in 30th May – 6th June and was uncertain of what to expect. You information has helped me feel more confident. I’m coming by myself as my partner can’t make it because of work commitments. Feel free to contact me if you’d like have a chat over drinks. PS I’m keen to go to Sudan and see the Pyramids there. Hope you enjoyed it.

Hi Morris. Great to hear that the information was helpful. I would definitely be up for meeting for a drink, as long as I’m in Lebanon at that time. Could you drop me a message on the quitandgotravel Instagram page? I don’t want to put my WhatsApp number on this page as it’ll inevitably get flooded with spam.

Sudan was amazing! Working on a guide for that now, but will take some time.

This is amazing, thank you so much for publishing this! I’ve had a hard time getting a real read on the situation. We are planning a trip in July, probably just Beirut for 4 or 5 days. Do you have any hotel recommendations?

Hi Katie, glad to hear it was useful. July is a great time to visit, the weather will be beautiful. Beirut is a great place to base yourself, but I would suggest to do at least a day trip to Byblos and the Jeita Grottoes. Regarding hotels, as I live here, I don’t stay in them and so don’t have specific recommendations. However, wherever you stay, the main thing to check is whether they have a generator and how many hours of power they have per day. Generally, the higher-end hotels have 24/7 power, whereas the lower-end ones could be just a few hours a day.

Hi Rowan, this was SO helpful, thank you! Hoping to visit May 27-June 4 but was nervous about the US government “level 3” travel advisory. I saw your disclaimer about the elections last week – how is the sentiment now?

Hi Lily, glad this was helpful. The elections have gone relatively peacefully, so hoping things will be back to normal by then. Time will tell, so feel free to reach out to me nearer the time to confirm.

Think your guide is really helpful mate. I’m looking to visit with my girlfriend for at least a week in Oct before flying on to India, but we will not hire a car to keep the costs down, so hopefully we can visit places like Byblos and Kadisha Valley by bus/shared taxi etc as we’d love to do some hiking. Thanks again.

Awesome mate, glad the guide was helpful. Lebanon is very doable with public transport (and maybe a bit of hitchhiking to Kadisha). Enjoy India!

Is the situation pretty unstable atm mate? Been looking at uk gov website and it seems to say avoid all but essential travel to Lebanon. Not going until Oct, so I hope thing may improve then, but would you say wait to see if it calms down a bit before booking flights, or just take the gov advice with a pinch of salt? As your blog seems to indicate its not too bad 🙂 sorry for the bombardment of questions!

Hey mate, already replied to your email, but for anyone else reading, government travel warnings tend to exaggerate. It’s actually very peaceful here at the moment. Lebanese people are very friendly and crime rates are low. In Lebanon, the situation can change quickly, but I wouldn’t let that put you off visiting.

Hi Rowan, thanks for sharing those helpful Informations. Do you know if there is a possibility to get from Bcharré to Baalbek by public transportation in September

Hi Miriam. Glad the blog has been useful. Unfortunately, there is no public transport from Bcharré to Baalbek. By public transport, you’d need to go back to Beirut and then over the main highway to Baalbek, which is a huge detour. However, I’m sure you could hitchhike it without much difficultly. Lebanese people are very friendly and a female friend of mine who was volunteering in Anjar the past few weeks hitchhiked all over the country without problems.

Wowwwww I was just looking around, totally unsure about Lebanon and feeling no way I could Really do it but your post has totally changed my mind.

I hope to meet you for a coffee hello.

~A Solo woman traveller

Ps, Pls let me know your thoughts on overland travel from jordan through syria.

Hey, glad the blog helped inspire you! Overland travel from Jordan is possible with an organised tour, as that’s generally the only way to get the visa. It’s expensive but doable and I’ve spoken with people who’ve done it. A coffee sounds good, drop me a message on Insta @quitandgotravel when you know the dates.

This post re Lebanon is fantastic. I’m traveling alone; do you have any tour guide recommendations? Also, if you’re up for a cup of coffee and a chat, I’ll be there the first week of July.

Hi Stacy, great to hear the post is useful. I never use tour guides (except in North Korea, where it’s mandatory), so can’t recommend one. However, Lebanon is very doable solo. I’d definitely be up for a coffee and should be here that week. Can you drop me a message on Insta? @quitandgotravel

This blog was really helpful – I’m a solo female traveler and have been looking to go to Beirut to visit my friend’s dog and bring him doggie treats (and I guess say hi to my friend too and bring human treats) but with everything that has happened in the past two years it has been a bit difficult to get it organised. Due to my nationality it also appears the visa process will take longer than normal in my current country of residence. I would rather not have to get my (human) friend send some sort of invitation letter in order for me to get a visa, but I guess I’ll just have to see and try and Lebanese Embassy. I look forward to reading more of your blog.

Your poor friend, I can see that he or she is definitely second to the dog! Good luck with the visa though, I hope you get it sorted out okay, and thanks for your kind comments.

Thanks so much for this guide. I’m Lebanese background and even I found it very very useful. My Aussie partner and I are going to Lebanon in September and I’m wondering which neighbourhood to book our Airbnb. We want to be able to walk all of Beirut, prefer to flush toilet paper down the toilet haha and want to be walking distance to cafes, bars and be able to walk home safely afterwards (or is it safer to get a service/taxi?). Also did you have any issues with being overcharged for things? Memories of taxi drivers taking me around the block a couple of times in Syria and charging me double haha

Hi Lili. Great to hear that my blog is even useful to Lebanese! For AirBNBs, Gemayze is probably the best Neighborhood. It’s walking distance to most things and has power more often than Hamra, so is less dark. Beirut is still very safe and walkable, even now. I think it’s a cultural thing, but despite the ever increasing poverty levels, crime rates are still low here. Most people are pretty honest, so rip offs are not common. The worst are taxis, especially from the airport, so use Uber or Bolt and set the app to pay cash (don’t pay more than 200,000 LBP from the airport).

Rowan, as others have said this is a great blog. Many thanks for all this info. I am a keen cyclist but cannot find any of the major adventure tour companies who offer cycling holidays in Lebanon. Do you know of any cycling organisations in Lebanon who might be able to help me put together an itinerary.

Hi David. I’m happy you liked the blog. I focus on independent travel, so not sure about tour companies to be honest. I don’t think cycling is a big thing here though (drivers are not so considerate), but that said, it could be a good way to see the country.

I had planned a trip to Lebanon in May 2020 (tickets paid for and everything) but Covid happened. Since then, Lebanon had gone through some significant changes like the economic crisis, etc, and I was really unsure if this year was the right time to be visiting Lebanon; was thinking of doing so in December.

Your blog had really helped, it is positive yet realistic. I am leaning heavily on traveling to Lebanon this year.

I heard it is easy to do a day trip to Damascus from Beirut? Have you done this trip? If so, was it a good experience?

Hi Ivy. Great to hear that you’re planning to visit Lebanon. Keep your eye on the news, but if it stays like it is now, you’ll have a great time. Day trips to Damascus are easily arranged. I don’t like organised tours, so I haven’t done one. I’m still working on the visa now, but hope to visit Syria independently for a couple of weeks in the near future.

Thank you so much for all this great information. My husband & am planning to move to Jadra, Lebanon with in the next year and I am doing research now and came across your blog. Any information you can send me in a email would be much appreciated. I have never traveled outside the U.S. . We plan on visiting for 2 weeks before we actually move there.

Hey that’s awesome that you’re moving here to Lebanon. It’s a wonderful country. Jadra is an interesting choice of location though! Most of the relevant information is in the blog, but feel free to let me know if you have specific questions.

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A first-time guide to Lebanon

Jul 17, 2018 • 6 min read

For a country its small size, Lebanon has a staggering number of diversions to keep visitors entertained. Ancient history enthusiasts will be exhausted by the end of their trip: you can barely turn around without stumbling over a world-class archaeological site. Lovers of nightlife will find a gregarious capital with bacchanalian parties going to all hours. Those seeking serene nature can wander through ancient cedar forests and dramatic mountainscapes.

Here's where to go and what to do if you're headed to Lebanon for the first time.

Beirut is a city of atmosphere rather than world-class sights. Explore the city on foot, and take your time. Whether you encounter a decaying Ottoman-era mansion covered in bougainvillea (and sometimes decades-old bullet holes from the Lebanese Civil War), a couple at the table next to you at happy hour who insist you share their nachos or an elderly taxi driver with a luxurious moustache who sings old Arabic songs a cappella at full volume: this is a city where small moments loom large.

Ancient history fans should visit the National Museum of Beirut or the St George Crypt Museum for artefacts and a window into life in ancient Berytus, the centre of Roman legal thought. Wander the neighbourhood of Hamra , stopping at used book shops and a cafe (try T Marbouta ) for an Arabic coffee, and then check out the American University of Beirut campus for greenery, new feline pals and a diverse mix of architectural styles. Stroll down to the Corniche , Beirut’s great common denominator, to watch the sun set on the Mediterranean ( Bay Rock Cafe has great views over Pigeon Rocks ). For dinner, head to Gemmayzeh for cheap and cheerful Lebanese mezze at Café Em Nazih  and obligatory after-dinner drinks at Coop d’Etat , the rooftop bar upstairs.

Bekaa Valley

One of the breadbaskets of ancient Rome, the Bekaa Valley is littered with ancient sites. The world-class ruins of Baalbek , site of the Roman solar cult Heliopolis, are the valley’s star attraction. The soaring Temple of Bacchus , circa 200 AD, is one of the best preserved and most majestic Roman ruins in the world, featuring more than a dozen 19m-high columns and exquisitely preserved reliefs.  After a day of tramping over ruins, find refreshment at one of many wineries in the mountains separating the Bekaa from the coast, located on the highway back to Beirut. The proprietors of Chateau Ksara and Domaine des Tourelles disagree over which was the first in Lebanon to mass-produce wine and arak (Lebanon’s national aniseed-flavoured distilled spirit); consider both sides of the debate while watching the setting sun cast pink light over the Anti-Lebanon range.

Some governments have travel advisories in place for this region, and the UK's Foreign and Commonwealth Office warns against all non-essential travel to Baalbek.

Northern Lebanon

Tripoli , only two hours from Beirut, is the country’s second-most populous city. It’s bursting with fantastic and varied historic and cultural sites, and Tripolitans may be the most welcoming in all of Lebanon. Inconceivably, few visitors make the trip because there is little official tourist infrastructure. Don’t make the same mistake: what Tripoli lacks in malls and museums, it more than makes up for in ambience.

Start your day at the unfinished Oscar Niemeyer International Fairground, a deserted mid-20th century monument to Brutalist architecture. Continue on to the medieval souqs , still bustling centuries later. Ask locals for directions to the hammam and Madrasa Al Nouriyat , some of the best examples of black-and-white marble-striped Mamluk architecture outside of Cairo. Press on to Tripoli’s Crusader-era  Citadel of Raymond de Saint-Gilles , or call it a day and enjoy a well-deserved libation in the Christian port quarter of Al Mina , fragrant with frangipani trees.

The Qadisha Valley rends a deep gorge from outside Tripoli up to Bcharré , a steepled-dotted town in the shadow of Qornet As Sawda, the highest peak in the Levant. The valley was a refuge for early Christians fleeing persecution, and some of the caves that line the steep walls of the canyon contain mummies dating to the 13th century. Spend the night in Bcharré, then wake up early  to hike the steep, forested canyon walls . Don’t miss the nearby Cedars of Lebanon preserve before heading back to Beirut; the thin, high-altitude light filtering through ancient trees imparts a tranquillity you’ll be grateful for once you hit traffic on the coastal highway.

If that all sounds a bit sweaty, head to the Med. Northern Lebanon has some sweet beach towns, where you can pass pleasant hours leaping off rocks and feasting on fish. Chilled-out Batroun is home to the Colonel Brewery , where you can find local craft beer and a sandy beach. Further south, 45 minutes from Beirut, is the ancient port city of Byblos , where the Phoenicians invented the alphabet. Toast their ingenuity with a glass of rosé from the deck at Chez Pepe , where Marlon Brando and Brigitte Bardot used to hang out in the 1960s.

Southern Lebanon

Nowhere is Lebanon’s coastline more enchanting than in the south. Turquoise waters lap golden sand beaches, and sea turtles sometimes can be found surfing gentle waist-high waves. The best beaches in south Lebanon are in Tyre , about two hours south of Beirut. Post up at Cloud 59 , the most fashionable of the seaside beach shacks, which serves up ice-cold Almaza and simple food. Turn left from the scene at Cloud 59 and wander down to the Tyre Coast Nature Preserve (one of just a few in Lebanon), home to beach grasses and scuttling crabs.

This being Lebanon, there are also world-class ruins in Tyre, including the world’s largest and best preserved Roman hippodrome, which once seated 20,000 fans of chariot racing. The hippodrome is in the Al Bass complex , as is a reconstructed monumental archway and a legitimately spooky Roman necropolis (peer into the sarcophagi and you might see a skeleton).

An hour north of Tyre is the jolly Sunni town of Saida . There are some excellent sights here, among them a Crusader castle and the fascinating Musée du Savon , but the laid-back vibes in the medieval souqs and on the seaside corniche are the real draw. Get a falafel at Abou Rami and then decamp across the road for a nargileh (flavoured water pipe) with everyone else in town basking in the cool evening breeze off the sea.

Getting around

Regular buses serve Tripoli, Tyre and Saida along the coastal highway (catch buses to Tripoli from Beirut's Dawra Transport Hub  and to southern cities from Cola Transport Hub ). But outside Lebanon's cities, the best way to see the country is by hiring a car for a road trip , easy to do at Beirut's airport.

Is Lebanon safe?

Western governments advise their citizens to avoid the borders with Israel and Syria and stick to Lebanon's interior and coast. Check your government's travel advice before you go.  Street crime is extremely rare: something you drop on the street is almost sure to be there when you come back for it, if someone hasn’t already chased you down the street to return it.  Residents in rural areas can be a bit more wary of foreigners than their urban counterparts, but everyone is helpful and kind as long as you are respectful of local norms and dress appropriately (don't show thighs, upper arms or midriffs).

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Is it safe to travel to Lebanon right now? Latest travel advice

Now that fighting has escalated, people have been warned against travelling to the country

Amid growing fears of the Middle East conflict escalating, countries such as the US, UK, Australia, France, Canada, South Korea, Saudi Arabia, Italy, Japan, Türkiye and Jordan have urged their citizens to leave Lebanon as soon as possible. Flights to and from the country’s only commercial airport in Beirut have already been suspended or cancelled. 

Here is everything you need to know about the official travel advice about travelling to Lebanon right now. 

Is it safe to travel to Lebanon at the moment? 

No, due to the escalating likelihood of conflict, all advice warns firmly against travelling to Lebanon right now, and leaving as soon as possible if you’re already there. 

What has the Foreign Office said? 

As of yesterday, Sunday August 4, the UK Foreign Office updated its travel advice to warn against all travel to Lebanon. The information reads as follows: ‘The security situation in Lebanon is volatile and can deteriorate quickly. Violence may occur: as a result of the conflict affecting Lebanon , between security forces and protestors, between supporters of political groups, over scarce or subsidised resources.

‘Confrontations often happen without warning, and can result in large numbers of casualties. Security forces may use tear gas and rubber bullets during clashes. 

‘Weapons are common in Lebanon and groups such as Hezbollah have arms that are beyond state control. Arguments can quickly escalate into violence, including the use of weapons, typically firearms and bladed weapons.

‘Celebratory gunfire is illegal in Lebanon but remains widespread. Every year there are reported casualties. Regional and international developments such as in Syria, Iraq and Israel, can have an impact on the local security situation. Monitor the regional situation whilst in Lebanon. FCDO continues to advise against all travel to Lebanon. If you are currently in Lebanon, we encourage you to leave, while commercial options remain available.’

Evacuation plan

According to the Evening Standard , the Foreign Office has also said: ‘Do not rely on [the Foreign Office] being able to evacuate you in an emergency. You should have a personal emergency plan that does not rely on the UK Government. This may include the ability to leave quickly or to shelter in place if you judge it necessary and safe to do so.’

Airlines such as Lufthansa, Swiss, Eurowings and Air France have already suspended some of their Beirut-bound flights, but people in Lebanon are being encouraged to use commercial options to leave while they’re still available. 

According to the Guardian , the UK has stepped up possible evacuation preparations, and consular experts, border force officials and military personnel have been deployed in the region to help. What’s more, landing ships RFA Cardigan Bay and HMS Duncan are already located in the eastern Mediterranean, and the air force has put transport helicopters on standby, too.

Stay in the loop: sign up to our free Time Out Travel newsletter for all the latest travel news. 

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Is it safe to visit Lebanon? Foreign Office advice as Britons encouraged to leave

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Following the outbreak of war in Israel, anxieties in bordering countries have been rising amid fears the fighting will spread to neighbouring territories.

Lebanon shares a border with Israel to the south, and the historic tensions between the two are threatening to flare up again, with Hezbollah – a Lebanese militant group – an important component in the potential escalation of the conflict .

In recent days, the Israeli military have exchanged fire with Hezbollah along the border, and the Foreign Office withdrew some staff from the British Embassy in Lebanon early on the 6 November, citing the current security situation.

Here is the latest information on whether the country remains safe for foreign travellers.

Where is Lebanon?

Lebanon sits to the north of Israel, bordering Syria to the north and the east. The capital, Beirut, sits along the Mediterranean Sea, and was a target of Israeli bombings during the Lebanon War in 2006.

Skirmishes between Israel and militant groups have so far been limited to areas around the border in the south. Most recently, on 6 November it was reported in Lebanese media that a woman and three children were killed by an Israeli airstrike while travelling between the towns of Ainata and Aitaroun.

What does the Foreign Office say?

The latest update from the Foreign Office (FCDO), dated 6 November, states: “You are advised against all travel to the whole of Lebanon. If you are currently in Lebanon, we encourage you to leave now while commercial options remain available. 

“If you are a British national in Lebanon, please  register your presence , which includes recording your up to date contact information. You should fill in this form for every member of your family or group who is a British national. Your registration will allow us to share any updates.”

The update adds advice for those who cannot leave Lebanon, saying that “you should have a personal emergency plan that does not rely on the UK government and be prepared in case you need to leave quickly. However, if you cannot leave Lebanon, you should shelter in place if you judge it necessary and safe to do so.

“See  safety and security  and  regional risks  for information on known security risks in Lebanon and advice on how to keep yourself safe. You should still register your presence to receive updates and sign up to  get email notifications  when this travel advice is updated.”

As recently as 18 October, the official advice had been to avoid “all but essential travel” to much of the country, but this has changed in the wake of intensifying clashes and unrest. The FCDO states that “events in Lebanon are fast moving. The situation has potential to deteriorate quickly and with no warning.

“Commercial routes out of Lebanon could be severely disrupted or cancelled at short notice and roads across the country could be closed.

“Travel within or out of Lebanon is at your own risk. The FCDO cannot tell you whether it is safe to travel to any departure point within Lebanon. However, see  safety and security  for information on known security risks in Lebanon and advice on how to keep yourself safe.”

Regarding the conflict in Israel specifically, it says: “[The] FCDO advises against all travel to Lebanon due to risks associated with the conflict between Israel and the Occupied Palestinian Territories. There are ongoing mortar, artillery exchanges and airstrikes in South Lebanon, on the border with Israel. Tensions are high and events could escalate with little warning, which could affect or limit exit routes out of Lebanon.

“There is also a risk of civil unrest. There have been large protests outside embassies, including outside the US and French embassies on 17 October. Further protests are expected. British Nationals should exercise caution and avoid areas where demonstrations may be held.

“Due to the security situation, some staff at the British embassy and all family members of staff have been temporarily withdrawn. The embassy continues with essential work including services to British nationals.”

Additional security risks are present in Lebanon due to the threat of terrorism and kidnapping, with groups mainly operating in Tripoli, areas close to the Syrian border (such as around Hermel and Aarsal), Palestinian refugee camps and the southern suburbs of Beirut. The FCDO states that “terrorists are very likely to try to carry out attacks in Lebanon,” adding that violence may occur between security forces, protesters and supporters of political groups.

What about flights to and from Lebanon?

Flights from the UK to Lebanon are currently operating with a reduced schedule.

Will my insurance be invalid if I travel to Lebanon?

Anyone who chooses to travel to Lebanon will immediately have their travel insurance invalidated unless they have a specialist policy, as the FCDO advises against all travel to the country.

The conditions for cancelling your trip will be dependent on your provider, though if you have a trip already booked to Lebanon, you should be able to cancel and make an insurance claim as the Foreign Office is now advising against all travel there.

If already in Lebanon, contact your airline and insurance provider to find out the conditions of travelling home early.

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Getting help

The Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office ( FCDO ) cannot provide tailored advice for individual trips. Read this travel advice and carry out your own research before deciding whether to travel.

Emergency services in Lebanon  

Ambulance: 140

Police: 112

Contact your travel provider and insurer

Contact your travel provider and your insurer if you are involved in a serious incident or emergency abroad. They will tell you if they can help and what you need to do.

Refunds and changes to travel

For refunds or changes to travel, contact your travel provider. You may also be able to make a claim through insurance. However, insurers usually require you to talk to your travel provider first.

Find out more about changing or cancelling travel plans , including:

• where to get advice if you are in a dispute with a provider
• how to access previous versions of travel advice to support a claim

Support from FCDO

FCDO has guidance on staying safe and what to do if you need help or support abroad, including:

• finding English-speaking  lawyers ,  funeral directors  and  translators and interpreters  in Lebanon
• dealing with a  death in Lebanon
• being arrested or imprisoned in Lebanon
• getting help if you’re a  victim of crime
• what to do if you’re  in hospital
• if you’re affected by a crisis , such as a terrorist attack

Contacting FCDO

Follow and contact FCDO travel on Twitter , Facebook and Instagram . You can also sign up to get email notifications when this travel advice is updated.

Help abroad in an emergency

If you’re in Lebanon and you need emergency help from the UK government, contact the British Embassy in Beirut .

You can also contact FCDO online .

FCDO in London

You can call FCDO in London if you need urgent help because something has happened to a friend or relative abroad.

Telephone: 020 7008 5000 (24 hours)

Find out about call charges

Risk information for British companies

The Overseas Business Risk service offers information and advice for British companies operating in Lebanon on how to manage political, economic, and business security-related risks.

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Lebanon travel guide: a 2-week itinerary

By Joan Torres 58 Comments Last updated on July 25, 2024

This is a compelling travel guide to Lebanon that shows how to visit the Levantine country during the crisis, including where to exchange in the black market. It also includes things to do, how to move around, where to stay and more.

Despite its tiny size, Lebanon is the most diverse country in the Middle East, a nation that chaotically combines both Arab and European Mediterranean culture, with their love for good wine and the most exquisite food in the region, without never losing their Arab essence.

Lebanon, however, is not in their brightest moment.

A deep economical crisis fuelled by the port explosion and also COVID-19 has left an impoverished country with terrible inflation, and an absolutely desperate population.

As a traveler, Lebanon has changed a lot, the crisis is particularly palpable but that should not stop you from visiting such an alluring country, which is also desperate for foreign currency .

This guide contains travel tips for Lebanon, as well as a complete itinerary.

In this Lebanon travel guide:

Table of Contents

• Traveling during the crisis
• Power shortages
• Useful books
• Travel insurance
• Moving around
• Day 1,2,3 – Beirut
• Day 4 – Byblos
• Day 5 – Zahlé
• Day 6 – Baalbek  
• Day 7, 8 – Tripoli
• Day 9, 10 – Kadisha Valley
• Day 11 – Sayda & Mleeta
• Day 12 – Tyr
• Day 13 – Go off-beat – Lebanese-Israeli separation wall
• More Information

our recommended travel insurance for Lebanon

IATI Insurance is the most versatile insurance for any destination, including Lebanon.

🪪 Visa for traveling to Lebanon

Most nationalities can get a free 30-day visa on arrival at the airport in Beiru t , which is extendable for 2 additional months.

You just get an easy, friendly stamp, that’s it, and it’s valid for multiple entries.

💻 Internet and connectivity in Lebanon

Wi-Fi connection has improved over the last few years, but it’s still not the best, it tends to fail in most budget hotels, and that’s why I recommend buying a SIM Card.

One company I used was Alfa , their internet packages costing the equivalent of around 20USD.

Get a VPN for traveling in Lebanon

You should always use a VPN when you travel, especially when you connect to public Wi-Fi networks.

Your connection will be much safer. 

Moreover, you will be able to access content which is typically censored in Lebanon. 

I recommend ExpressVPN – Extremely easy to use, fast and cheap. 

If you want to learn more about VPN, check: Why you need a VPN for traveling .

Read: A travel guide to Palestine

💰 How to travel in Lebanon during the crisis

As mentioned, Lebanon is immersed in a hugely deep financial crisis, and below are the things that might affect you as a traveler.

1 – Need to know about money in Lebanon during the crisis

In Lebanon, the official currency is the Lebanese Pound (LBP) .

The official exchange rate versus US $ is 1 USD equals 1500LBP .

That’s the official (and old) bank rate. However, because of the crisis, the official rate in the black market is today:

1 USD = 27,000 LPB

The Lebanese pound has devalued more than 15 times its original value in just a few years, it’s absolutely crazy.

Lebanon travel tip – I recommend you download Lira Exchange on your smartphone, an app that gives you the current black market exchange rate.

However, for some reason, Lebanese banks like to keep the old rate.

This means that you should never ever use your credit card in Lebanon, never pay by card, and never withdraw from an ATM, never ever because you’ll get the old rate.

Lebanon is today a cash economy, bring all your money in cash, don’t use your credit card. In the hypothetical case you run out of money, ask someone to send you cash via Western Union or similar, but never without your debit card.

How to exchange money in the black market of Lebanon

They call it black market but basically, the black market for exchanging money in Lebanon is anywhere, including the official money exchange offices which can be found everywhere, especially along Hamra Street in Beirut.

Which currencies do they accept?

You can exchange Euros (€), US dollars, or British Pounds, among others.

If the Lebanese Pound has devalued more than 15 times, does that mean that everything is 15 times cheaper?

No. The currency devaluation has brought massive inflation too.

For example, before the crisis, a bottle of beer in a supermarket used to cost 1,500LBP. Today, you can buy it for 15,000LBP.

2 – Need to know about power shortages in Lebanon

One of the biggest consequences of this unfortunate crisis for the Lebanese people is their shortage of electricity. When you travel in Lebanon, you’ll see that power cuts occur very often, every day.

As a traveler, if you only stay in fancy hotels and eat in top-end restaurants, the power cuts won’t really bother you, since pretty much all use powerful generators.

However, in cheaper hotels, as well as outside of Beirut, power cuts occur pretty often.

By the way, one top travel tip for Lebanon is not to order meat from certain cheap restaurants, since their fridge might not be always on due to the power cuts.

3 – Is it safe to travel to Lebanon during the economical crisis?

Lebanon has never come without its own issues but this has always been one of the safest countries in the Middle East , a country home to a huge cultural and religious diversity, where there’s never been a place for extremists.

In the last couple of years, however, since the unfortunate crisis started, many travelers are questioning the country’s safety, claiming that traveling to Lebanon isn’t safe anymore, but I strongly disagree.

Crime has always been pretty insignificant in Lebanon and, despite that many Lebanese are in urgent need of cash, it still remains low, and there are no travel reports telling otherwise.

Public demonstrations

Since the crisis started, the only place or moment of potential violence has been during the street protests. If you bump into a public demonstration, it’s recommended to stay away from it.

Moreover, one of the most tangible legacies of the Lebanese Civil War , is that many people in Lebanon have guns at their homes, and many still like to carry them outside of their respective houses.

Once, I took a shared taxi in Beirut , from Hamra to Burj Hamood, and one of the passengers was carrying a gun, yet, nobody seemed to care about it.

This is the reason why in most public demonstrations, some demonstrators have guns, and they tend to like shooting into the sky. Being around those people is, obviously, dangerous.

🛫 How to get to Lebanon

How to travel to lebanon by air.

The national airline in Lebanon is Middle East Airlines (MEA) , which has several connections across Europe and the Middle East.

Moreover, you can also fly to Beirut International Airport from Paris (Air France), Frankfurt (Lufthansa), Barcelona (Vueling), Istanbul (Turkish and Pegasus) and pretty much any country in the Middle East .

How to travel to Lebanon by land

Lebanon shares a border with Israel and Syria.

• Traveling to Lebanon from Israel: The border with Israel has always been closed, not possible to cross it.
• Traveling to Lebanon from Syria: It’s fully open and very easy to cross. We use it all the time for our group expeditions .

For more information, read my Syria travel guide .

How to travel to Lebanon by sea

Apparently, the ferry from Cyprus to the northern city of Tripoli isn’t running anymore but you can take a ferry from Tasucu, Port of Mersin (Turkey). However, there isn’t any reliable information online regarding departure timings so overlanders should just show up in Tasucu.

Travel reports are more than welcome 🙂

📚 Useful books for traveling in Lebanon

Lebanon travel guide by bradt.

This is the most up-to-date travel guide to Lebanon. I am a Bradt Guides fan because all their guides are extremely insightful, both from a local perspective and also, because they give plenty of tips for independent travelers which help you easily plan your itinerary for Lebanon.

Middle East Travel Guide by Lonely Planet

It has only one chapter about Lebanon but, at least, the information here is updated.

🚑 Travel insurance for visiting Lebanon

Lebanon is one of those countries where you must travel with insurance, as it is a wild place where people drive crazily.

I recommend IATI Insurance  because:

• Plans for all budgets.
• Covers all countries in the Middle East, including Syria and Iraq
• Full COVID coverage
• It covers senior citizens too
• Readers of this blog can get a 5% exclusive discount

🕌 The country: people & culture

For me, the highlight of traveling to Lebanon is by far, the Lebanese people.

However, I am not talking about their kindness and hospitality – since that would be falling into the classical cliché one can say about any country in the Middle East – but I am talking about the cultural diversity.

There’s no other country – at least that I am aware of – where there can be so many groups of people living in such a tiny space.

Shia, Sunni, Catholics, Orthodox and Druze, but also Armenians, Palestinians, and Syrians.

From Hezbollah areas to Christian districts inhabited by European-like people and Sunni women wearing the niqab , the cultural mix in Lebanon is so chaotically mixed that it can’t be defined as a whole, and that’s what Lebanon is about.

Which language do they speak in Lebanon?

The official language in Lebanon is Arabic.

English is widely spoken in Beirut among well-educated Lebanese, especially in the districts of Hamra and Gemmazyeh.

Outside of Beirut, English is less spoken.

French is also spoken among a tiny part of the Lebanese population.

🍲 Food in Lebanon

Lebanese food is a Mediterranean cuisine with influences from both the Middle East and the French colonial era and, as in Spain, Italy or Greece, olive oil is the base of any dish.

Typically, most restaurants serve mezza , an array of small dishes similar to the Spanish tapas, which includes both vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes.

From the classic  hummus,   kibbeh (a local steak tartar), kebabs and   syadye  (rice, fish, and almonds in a gravy sauce) to a tasty olive oil of the standard of any southern European country and a strong wine culture, Beirut is home to the best food in the entire region.

Read: Iraqi Kurdistan travel guide

🛺 How to move around Lebanon

Everything in Lebanon can be reached in less than 2 or 3 hours.

Except for the northern mountains, where you might need to stay overnight, if you wanted, you can visit the entire country on different day trips from Beirut .

However, in order to enjoy all the places to their fullest, I really recommend spending some nights outside of the capital.

Traveling around Lebanon by public transportation

Lebanon is a very easy country to move around.

There are public buses and mini-vans going to almost every corner in the country from Beirut, where there are 2 main stations named Charles Helou and Cola Station . Charles Helou is ideal for traveling to the north, whereas Cola is to the South.

For more information about these 2 stations, check my Beirut Travel Guide and for more details about how to reach each city in Lebanon, check the Itinerary Section on this post .

Travel around Lebanon by taxi

If you can share the costs with other travelers, traveling by taxi around Lebanon is relatively cheap and pretty convenient, since most places can be reached from Beirut on a day trip.

One easy option would be calling an Uber, but I recommend getting in touch with a local taxi company. One I tried is located in Hamra street . They have fixed rates for going anywhere in Beirut.

Self-driving in Lebanon

You can also rent a car, no problem.

Just be aware, however, that the driving in Lebanon is pretty insane, but definitely not more than in Saudi Arabia , Iraq and any other country in the Middle East .

As per rental car companies, some travelers recommend a local company named Mike Rent a Car , but Hertz or Europcar are also available.

📍 Lebanon travel guide: a 2-week itinerary

Here you will find the best itinerary for Lebanon.

It might be a bit challenging to include all of these places in just 2 weeks but, if you plan ahead, it is totally feasible.

Day 1, 2 – Beirut – The most liberal city in the Middle East

What can I say about Beirut that I haven’t said already?

The Lebanese capital is the most westernized and liberal city in the Middle East (outside of Israel), only comparable to Tehran and a city full of contrasts and owner of deep and interesting history.

Beirut is composed of several neighborhoods, each one with its own subculture, so different from each other that, when you are wandering around them, it looks like you are in a different city, from the hipster neighborhood of Gemmazyeh to Hezbollah areas, Armenian, Christian, refugee camps and fancy districts with the most glamorous stores and the best restaurants in the region.

For more information about Beirut, read my article: A travel guide to Beirut

Where to stay in Beirut

Budget Hotel –   Embassy Hotel  – This is the cheapest hotel in town. The rooms are getting quite old but, at this price, you won’t find anywhere better. The location is great, however, in Hamra, a very cool area to hang out.

Backpacker Hostel –   Hamra Urban Gardens – Located in the main Hamra Street. It offers both suite and dorm rooms with a seasonal outdoor pool and bar.

Mid-range Hotel –  O Monot Boutique – Strategically located at the heart of Beirut, this property was highly recommended by many because of their amazing facilities especially their rooftop bar with a panoramic view of Beirut.

Top-end Hotel –  Radisson Blu Hotel – If you are looking for a comfortable place which has a delightful design, a good restaurant and other various facilities, this 5-star hotel is a perfect choice. Located in Dunes shopping center and 5-minute walk away from the beach.

Day 3 – Byblos – The native home of the modern alphabet

With 8,000 years of history, Byblos is considered one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world and the place where the first inscriptions containing the modern western alphabet were found.

Byblos derives from the Greek word bublos , meaning papyrus , as the town was the stopping place for the Phoenicians who shipped papyrus from Egypt .

Besides a super interesting museum that explains the history of the creation of the alphabet, in Byblos you can also visit a crusader castle from the XII century, built by the Franks, a restored souq, a beautiful Mediterranean harbor full of restaurants, where you can eat seafood feasts, and some archeological sites containing mainly Roman ruins but also from many other civilizations, from the Neolithic settlements 8,000 years ago to Phoenician, Egyptian, Greek and Ottoman.

Book a tour to Byblos from Beirut It also includes Jeita & Harissa CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

How to get to Byblos from Beirut

Byblos is around 50km from Beirut. Buses depart from Charles Helou station.

Where to stay in Byblos

Byblos can be reached on a day trip from Beirut but, in case you wanna stay here, here’s a few options:

Budget Hotel – Sea Valley – The cheapest hotel in Byblos is a very decent aparthotel. 

Mid-range hotel – L’Hotel de mon pere – With stunning panoramic sea views and really awesome breakfast, this super pretty modern hotel serves the best quality in Byblos, at the lowest price. It is really close to the beach and even closer to the Old City of Byblos, so you can’t ask for more!

Top-end hotel – Byblos Sur Mer – This boutique hotel is at the most privileged location in the whole of Byblos, next to the ruins, on the seaside and at the heart of where the exquisite social life in Byblos is, which consists of eating at the seafood fancy restaurants that compose the harbor.

Day 4 – Zahlé – The face of Lebanon you didn’t know about

What I loved about Zahlé was that, even though it is a Lebanese city located in the heart of the Bekaa Valley, it is more similar to the villages of Mediterranean Europe than to Lebanon itself, as this city, with a Christian majority, is famous for its wineries and for its restaurants, serving the best mezza in the whole country.

In Zahlé, you can’t miss Berdawini , located just outside of the city, a green area with a river flowing, plenty of high-quality restaurants, slightly pricey for my taste but delicious.

When I went there, it was not only full of Lebanese people from the middle-upper class but also, there were plenty of Western diplomats escaping from Beirut for the weekend.

I also recommend you go to Ksara Winery , the oldest and most famous winery in the whole country.

I always prefer visiting small, traditional wineries, rather than big corporations (check my Kakheti travel guide ) but I have to admit that the wine I tasted here was excellent. Their tour was OK but there wasn’t any need to book it in advance.

Book a wine tour from Beirut which includes 3 different wineries in the Beqaa Valley CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

How to get to Zahlé from Beirut

Zahlé is on the way to Baalbek, so you should first take a bus to a town named Chtoura. From there, you can get on a second bus to Zahlé.

I got it at Cola Station but there may be a direct bus from Charles Helou station.

Where to stay in Zahlé

There is no cheap accommodation in Zahlé: the most budget accommodation starts at 70USD, so if you are on a budget, you should spend the night in Baalbek or go back to Beirut.

Mid-range Apartment Hotel – Berdawni Apartments – This apartment-hotel is nothing outstanding but it really fulfills its function, with very comfy beds and the best location, right next to Berdwani river, the highlight in town. It is a good value money for money option and, in any case, you won’t find anything cheaper!

Top-end Hotel – La Place Hotel – Located in the old part of town, people love this hotel because it manages to combine the old and traditional with very modern facilities and exquisite decoration. The breakfast is great and they have the purest and kindest Middle Eastern service.

Day 5 – Baalbek – The most impressive and off-the-beaten-track Roman ruins

Lebanon travel tip – Pay the entrance ticket in Lebanese Pounds (LBP), not in USD, since they will give you the official bank rate, meaning that you’ll pay no more than 1 dollar to enter the site. Before the crisis, the entrance fee was $15

Visiting Baalbek is one of the best things to do in Lebanon, a city that has some impressive Roman ruins, built on a giant scale and often considered the most important in the Middle East and, controversially, one of the least visited off-the-beaten track Roman ruins in the world, even lesser visited than Palmyra in Syria , which used to receive hundreds of thousands of visitors before the war.

The temple of Jupiter and the temple of Bacchus are the buildings that dominate this stunning architectural masterpiece.

Seriously, these Roman ruins are just outstanding and, when I went there, I had the ruins completely to myself.

Book a tour to Baalbek from Beirut the easiest way to visit the site with no hassle CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

How to get to Baalbek from Beirut 

Baalbek is 90km from Beirut.

From Cola Station, there are buses going to Chtoura, situated half-way, a town from where you should take a second bus to Baalbek.

Where to stay in Baalbek

Even though you can visit Baalbek on a day trip, I strongly recommend spending one night there to see the ruins at sunset time.

Budget Hotel  – Jammal Hotel – This is the most budget hotel in Baalbek but you can’t book it online. It is OK for 1 night. 

Mid-Range Hotel  –  Palmyra Hotel  – This is, perhaps, the most famous hotel in the country and the reason is that it has never been closed since it was opened in 1874. it has hosted famous people such as Nina Simeone and the President of France It is also located next to the Roman ruins. I personally think the hotel is absolutely overpriced, since there hasn’t been any renovation for decades.

Day 6 – Tripoli – The most traditional Lebanese city

Tripoli is the second biggest Lebanese city, a city that would probably fit in what you think are the Lebanese standards, with its beautiful old souq of spices, ancient medieval architecture, and a citadel from where you get fantastic views of the city.

In Tripoli, a city famous for its sweets, live the Lebanese people who have the famous Arabic hospitality, as it’s impossible to be wandering the streets, kind of lost, without several locals offering you their help.

This is a city to get lost in around its narrow alleys and an old city belonging to the XIV century.

Furthermore, you can’t miss the fortress of Raymond de Saint Gilles, built in the XI century and the lovely neighborhood around the harbor.

By the way, you probably heard that the U.S. Embassy describes Tripoli as a dangerous city to travel to. Why is that so? Since the Civil War, there have been one-off clashes between Sunni and Alawi Muslims who reside in the neighborhoods of Bab al-Tabbaneh and Jebel Mohsen, respectively. Throughout the years, these clashes have killed several people.

This is a one-off conflict happening in a specific area, far away from the city center. It’s a fight between two small districts and doesn’t go beyond.

The rest of the city is totally cool and safe. However, since I’m an extremely curious human being, I also went to Jebel Mohsen . And what can I say? Life there was merely normal. Again, clashes and bombings happen once a year, not more.

How to get to Tripoli from Beirut

Located 80km, there are buses leaving from Cola Station continuously, as well from Charles Helou.

Where to stay in Tripoli

There are very few options in Tripoli but these would be the most popular:

Budget Guest House –  Haddad Hotel– The facilities and rooms are very old but the staff is a lovely family that will give you a very charming welcome and a great, traditional breakfast. With an awesome location, close to the old city, this is the best place for budget travelers and backpackers. Online booking not available. 

Mid-range Hotel – Via Mina Hotel – Being the top rated hotel in Tripoli, Via Mina has a kind of rustic style but with very modern facilities at the same time. It is located right in front of the sea, has a great pool and the staff will bless you with great hospitality.

Day 9, 10 – Kadisha Valley – Lovely Christian mountain villages

If you either want just to relax, eat good food, visit beautiful Christian monasteries or to go hiking, the Kadisha Valley in Lebanon will always be the perfect place for you.

Kadisha means ”holy” and owes this name to the fact that this valley is home to some of the most ancient communities of monastic Christians  in the Middle East.

In case you don’t know, monasticism is a way of life for which the person (in this case Christian monks) renounces everything to devote himself completely to spiritual work.

The valley is full of natural caves, difficult to access, that once served as places of isolation for the monks living lives devoted to Christ.

How to get to Kadisha from Tripoli (or Beirut)

If you come from Beirut, you will have to go to Tripoli first.

Once in Tripoli, there are buses leaving from 9am to a small village named Bsharri, which is a great base to explore the rest of the valley. For coming back, the last one is at 4:30pm.

Where to stay in Kadisha Valley (Bsharri)

Kadisha is one of those places where you really should spend one night at least, especially if you come by public transportation. Otherwise, you will just have 1 hour to explore it entirely.

Budget Guest House – Tiger Guest House – This is an ideal place for budget backpackers and, basically, the only cheap accommodation in town. Everything is very simple but the family is lovely and very helpful.

Mid-range Hotel – Bauhaus Chalets Apartment – Breathtaking views, a very accommodating owner, and pretty modern facilities, this hotel is pretty good, given the low range offer in Bsharri.

Day 11 – Sayda and Mleeta – Hezbollah territory

Sayda is a small city located 40km from Beirut. Slightly conservative, Sayda is a nice place to visit on a day trip, wandering around its labyrinthine, covered souq, full of cafés where the Lebanese are sitting outside, looking with expectation at the few foreigners that pass by.

Perhaps, the most iconic building in the city is the castle, built in the XII century, located on a tiny island just 80m from the shore, whose walls turn into a beautiful orange during the sunset.

Mleeta, the Museum of Hezbollah

A fantastic day trip from either Beirut or Sayda is visiting the Mleeta Museum, aka the Hezbollah Resistance Museum .

Hezbollah is a Shia militia and armed group created in Lebanon during the war against Israel.

They don’t like to be called militia, however, but they consider themselves a resistance organization against a common enemy named Israel.

The area around Mleeta was their headquarters and stronghold during the war and today, they have built an amazing museum where you can visit the underground tunnels they used to hide in, as well as some captured Israeli tanks and artillery.

The museum only costs a few $ and it includes a guided tour with a member of the militia.

While it’s true that his explanations are pure propaganda, the guides are open to absolutely any question, and they are actually very pleasant people. A must-see.

How to get to Sayda from Beirut 

To get to the south of Lebanon, Cola Station is the best and only option.

Where to stay in Sayda

Sayda isn’t famous for its accommodation. To be honest, I didn’t stay here but came on a day trip from Beirut. In any case, if you plan to stay here, these are the most feasible options:

Budget / Mid-range Hotel – Yacoub Hotel – A very old hotel from 1920, Yacoub is located very close to the old city and the beach, the main city’s tourist attractions. However, many people have complained about cleanliness, especially because it is not a cheap hotel for what you get.

Mid-range Hotel – Al Qualaa Boutique Hotel – This boutique hotel isn’t bad but, for what you pay, the experience should be way better. The location is unbeatable, next to Sayda Old Fort and, overall, it is in a very cute building and the breakfast is just great. However, people complain about small details, like power cuts, the shower was not working and a large etcetera.

Day 12 – Tyre – Your beach destination in Lebanon

The most southern city in Lebanon, Tyre brags about being the place where you find the best beaches in the country.

In summer, every day, tons of Lebanese come from Beirut to spend the day and chill at its beaches and eat awesome seafood at the many restaurants that are found around the harbor.

In Tyre, you also find a castle, Roman ruins, a corniche, and a beautiful and colorful harbor, full of seafood restaurants.

How to get to Tyre from Beirut

Tyre is 90 kilometers from Beirut and buses leave from Cola Station.

However, you should first take a bus to Sayda and, from there, take the second one to Tyre.

Where to stay in Tyre

In Tyre, accommodation is super expensive. I didn’t stay there but, if you are a beach lover and you can afford it, this is the most popular hotel:

Mid-range Hotel – Asamina Boutique Hotel – Tastefully furnished and with really cozy rooms and comfortable beds and located in the old city, very close to the sea, this is one of the best boutique hotels in the country. They serve an amazing traditional breakfast, with really fresh products and the staff are just extremely accommodating. I think this is the best option in Tyre, better than any of the other resorts, which kind of lack of personality and authenticity.

Day 13 – Go off-beat – The wall that separates Lebanon from Israel

Both Lebanon and Israel have been in continuous war for several decades and, today, diplomatic relations between both countries don’t exist, since they still consider each other to be enemies. This is one of the most sensitive borders in the world.

These two Middle Eastern countries share a 79-kilometer border. For the most part, it is unreachable, as it’s located too far from the road. But I was told that there’s one area where you can actually get close to it. I liked the idea pretty much, so I decided to go there.

Visiting it is an adventure, as the whole area is full of military facilities and soldiers from the United Nations, who are guarding the border.

You need to be very cautious when visiting it. I was there by myself, with a camera, and I got arrested.

Please note that this is a Hezbollah area, which means that a permit is required . It’s very easy to obtain and you can get it at the police station in the city of Sayda.

They give it to you instantly but remember that a permit makes you eligible to enter the area and it doesn’t mean that you can take pictures or walk freely along the wall.

How to get to the Wall from Beirut

Be aware that it is not recommended to get there by public transportation, as you will trigger the suspicion of the Hezbollah Army.

It is not about walking around the wall but just that tourists never go there, so seeing a dude wandering there by himself is kind of weird, according to their eyes.

As I said, I got arrested when I was there but, in part, it was because I had a camera hanging from my shoulder.

Going there on your is your own responsibility but, if you decide to go, here’s how to get there by public transportation.

From Beirut, go to Cola Station and take a bus to Sayda. From Sayda, take a bus to Nabatiyeh. In Nabatiyeh, you need to take a shared taxi towards Kfarkela. You have to drop off as soon as you see the wall. Please note that you may have to wait for over an hour for the taxi to be completely full.

❗ More information to complement your Lebanon itinerary

📢 In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.

All guides and articles for traveling in Lebanon destination

• Beirut Travel Guide
• Solo Female Travel Guide in Lebanon
• Is Lebanon Safe

Travel guides to other countries in the Middle East

• Iran Travel Guide
• Iraq Travel Guide
• Travel Guide to Oman
• Travel Guide to Saudi Arabia
• Syria Travel Guide
• Palestine Travel Guide
• Yemen Travel Guide

You will also be interested in: Where in the Middle East is safe? and The most beautiful places in the Middle East .

58 comments

Wow, Lebanon looks beautiful! I like the mix of elements it seems to have based on your photos. I’ve always been a fan of the food too 😉

Hey Shannon, thanks for your comment. It’s a very underrated country and, the mix of elements you say, is what makes the country great ;9 ª

I am Lebanese!!! And i’m so happy you enjoyed your trip to Lebanon

Really? That’s awesome! It’s one of my favorite countries 🙂 !

I’m so glad I just stumbled on your blog. I am a Syrian/Lebanese American traveling to Lebanon for the first time in a few days. I have family in a village east of Tripoli named Aalma, I have yet to locate them but I do know that is where my family came from before migrating to the US. I will be spending a week traveling across Lebanon, a journey I have dreamt of for a long time coming.

Not to keep you for too long but I wanted to thank you for shedding light on Lebanon. A country which is mistakenly given a bad reputation due to strict travel warnings from my government.

Hey man! That’s amazing that you are going on a trip to Lebanon to know more about where your family comes from. Are you going to stay with some relatives? Please, do let me know if I can help you with anything. Cheers,

Hey, do you think I can show up at the cheap hotels in Tripoli and Baalbek and there will be a room available? By the way when you speak about Zahlé you say it’s called Berdawini but it’s Berdawni.

Hard to say, man. I went during low season and one of the hotels in Baalbek was fully booked… If there’s the option, I would book in advance!

Wanting to travel to Lebanon do many people speak English? Do I need a guide? If so what’s the charge. And where is the airport? Close to what country

Hi Linda. Most educated people speak English. You don’t necessarily need a guide, it’s up to you. The airport is in Beirut.

Amazing Joan. What a special place.

Is it possible to arrive by boat from Cyprus? And how much is a visa?

Yes, it’s possible and visa is free

Hey i am planning a one week Lebanon. Is it possible to cover all the famous destinations within one week?

Hi, maybe you could cover Beirut, Baalbek, Byblos and Tripoli, yes, why not.

Can all these be done as day trips? The hotel in Tripoli is expensive.

hi, do you think having my wedding in LEBANON (BERUIT) is a good idea/

Sure, why not 🙂 ?

Hello there,

Your blog about Lebanon is really great ! My parents are lebanese and Im going there for the 1st time this summer. I really liked your itinerary. I was wondering if we needed a private driver to go from one place to another when we leave Beirut, since there isn’t really public transportations outside of Beirut. For example, I want to visit the cedars, and I would also like to go from byblos to Baalbek. Cheers!

Hello! There is public transportation all over the country, you don’t need to worry about anything. Only to the cedars, you may need to hire a taxi, including the taxi. In the article itself I give plenty of transportation tips, like how to get from each city to the other

Hey Joan Thanks for your blog! I enjoyed reading it. I’m going to Lebanon for eight days, so far I plan to stay in Beirut for three nights, nearby Chouwen lake for two nights and then to Byblos and/or Tripoli. Do you think I’m trying to cram too much in? I’d love to hear any thoughts you might have on that plan. Thanks

Hi Madeline, 8 days is good enough for what you want to visit and I think you can even visit both Byblos and Tripoli, spending 1 night in each.

we are looking for a great in -Lebanon travel organiser to essentially fix all elements of our trip for us. Maybe not the flight from the UK but everything else. 8-10 days. Can you recommend either the best local company for that or even one based here in the UK looking to come in either May or October.

Many thanks for this blog.

Hi Keith, I don’t know about any specific travel agency for Lebanon, sorry. I did everything independently

Fab information! Do you know if having a Lebanese stamp in your passport will stop you from entering any countries – and if so, which?

Thanks! Emily

Hey Emily, no, it won’t stop you from going anywhere. Please, refer to this for more information: https://againstthecompass.com/en/avoid-israeli-passport-stamp/

Hi there, I enjoyed reading your blog. We’re going to Lebanon from the UK for two weeks in October. We’re planning on spending a week in Beirut, and maybe three nights in Byblos and Batroun. Does this seem a good way to divide our time? Thanks!

Hi Ellbin, it’s all right, but try to save one day for going to Baalbek at least!

Hi Joan, Just a few questions as you seem pretty familiar with the middle east. Will it be an issue entering Israel with visas from Sudan, Kurdistan and Syria? Am planning a trip to cover Lebanon, Israel and Jordan early next year and am considering adding on Kurdistan or Syria. Any ideas on itineraries. Will have to do at least one flight from Kurdistan and also from Lebanon to Jordan if not crossing through Syria.

Hi Melody! I suggest you check out this post 🙂 https://againstthecompass.com/en/avoid-israeli-passport-stamp/

Hi! I just booked my tickets to go to Lebanon in September. I’ll stay there for 2 weeks! I’ll spend about one week in Beirut (visiting some places from there), and then I’ll explore the Q. Valley and do lots of hiking. Thanks SO much for this information, it’s been very helpful! I also love the Middle East. I’m getting ready to go to Israel (second time) with my kids :). We’ll spend more time in the North this time. Blessings!!!

Thank you, Laura, have a great time in Lebanon!

Hi Joan, I read your blog and a couple of others and booked a trip to Lebanon a couple of months ago and was really exited. However, I have just read that if you have the exit stamp into Jordan on your passport you won’t get passed border control (even when flying from the UK) in Beirut. We went to Israel and Jordan in 2018 so I have the entry, exist and “residence for one month” stamps in my passport. Do I need to cancel my trip? We are due to leave on Sunday so I’m not really concerned we won’t be able to go. Thanks, Alex

P.S. I have already read your blog “avoid Israeli stamp” but there was only one stamp on the passport photo in this blog. We have two which I assume is entry and exit as we left and then returned to Israel. Surely these would be the stamps you would get if you entered and exited the country from anywhere?

Where did you enter and exit from, via airport or by land?

Hi Alex, a Jordanian stamp is fine but you won’t get into Lebanon with an Israeli stamp. Just change your passport, report it lost or something, probably cheaper than cancelling your trip.

Hi, please advise if it is still safe to go to Tripoli, I supposed to meet my engaged and get married there next month…I will wait for him at Beirut airport and then go to tripoli….

Yes, Tripoli is very safe

I’ve been to Lebanon a year ago and agree with most of what is said, except for food and accommodation because I was hidted by locals.

Naqoura and the very South are a gem undisturbed by big hotel complexes. A permit us indeed needed but not because it’s un Hezbollah territory but because it’s UNIFIL zone. You do have to get it in Salida but it takes a while and the process is quite opaque. Plan in advance if you can

Sorry about the typos, I should have read before posting.But I guess the text can be understood. And it’s Saida, not Salida, of course

Dear Joan, Thank you for your excellent information on Lebanon. A remark and a question: – The text of LEBANON TRAVEL GUIDE: A 2-WEEK ITINERARY appears only in Spanish (English flag not working) – Is it OK to get visum at Beirut Airport if passport contains stamp from Iran? Thanks.

Thanks for telling me, I really appreciate it. It’s been fixed now 🙂

Yes, no problem to enter Lebanon if you have an Iranian visa or stamp.

Hello Joan, This is a request that I take the liberty to put on your blog. As part of a master class in photojournalism with the National Geographic magazine I am looking for a ‘story’ in Beirut. For this I need to find a local guide to ‘develop’ this story. To show me around Beirut, make the contacts etc. Not so much the tourist sites but the life itself, after the explosion. I would be very grateful for your suggestions.

Thanks for the info. As of Oct. 29, a Covid test is no longer required.

Many thanks for an excellent blog post! Great to know about bringing currency to exchange before visiting Lebanon. I am visiting Lebanon for the first time in May for two weeks. I intend on booking a hostel online in Beirut to base myself for day trips for the first week and then go hiking around Kadisha Valley and spending time around Baalbek before flying onwards.

My question is – approximately how much $US/day would you recommend bringing over with you? I plan on staying in hostels/budget hotel, using public transport where possible and doing a bit of solo hiking. Just wanted to know a ballpark figure so that I don’t find myself short and have to use my debit or credit card and deal with the terrible exchange rate offered by the banks.

Hi Sam! I think you need around $50 a day, so I’d bring the equivalent of 70 a day, just in case! But it’s always hard to say. There are so many restaurants and night bars in Beirut, so you also need to think about that!

I was thinking about this itinerary, private tour, two people, hotel 3/4 only breakfast, if is possible italian speaking guide: 1 arrival beirut 2 beirut 3 Jeita Grottoes – Harissa – Byblos 4 Tripoli-Ehden 5 Valley of the Cedars – Baalbek -Zahle 6 Anjar – Beittedine – Deir al Qamar 7 Tire – Sidon 8 Beirut – Italy Greetings. Ilario giacometti

Thank you so much for this fantastic post! I was wondering how late are the last buses from places like Byblos and Baalbek since most of the hotels are expensive/booked out? Thanks again for making such a great page!!!

Hi Dhruv, I am not entirely sure, maybe around 7pm?

Hola Joan. Gracias por tu gran e interesante y profesional información de tu blog. De todos los países que visitas En cuanto a Líbano.. no es conveniente llevar euros? Se usa más dolares? Gracias

Hola Poli, en general, puedes cambiar de euros a libras libanesas sin problema alguno.

Sin embargo, hay hoteles que solo aceptan pago en efectivo y en dólares.

Lo que resulta mejor es llevarlo todo en euros y para el hotel, cambiarlos allí mismo a dólares. La tasa que ofrecen es mucho mejor que si compras dólares en Europa.

Lo que yo hago es llevar todo en euros, y lo cambio todo a libras o a dólares.

Hi, I´ve seen some comments and foregin governments advising not to go to Baleek. Is there any threat of doing this? Seems like a very touristic place. Going to Lebanon in october.

Hi Simon, it’s fine, it’s just that in that region there’s been local issues related to drug trafficking

Hi this is an awesome resource thanks so much for putting it together. Just wondering what the weather is like in October ( first couple of weeks). Want to go when it’s hot. Thanks

October is autumn, not super hot but pleasant

Hi, Do you still recommend going to Lebanon in March?

Beirut and more north than that should be fine to travel

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Travel Advice for Lebanon

Going to Lebanon and need to know about the latest government travel advice for Lebanon? Find the updated travel advice and travel warnings for Lebanon from governments around the world, here.

General Travel Advice and Warnings for Lebanon

The decision to go to Lebanon is your decision and you are responsible for your personal safety whilst in Lebanon.

The web content on this web page is provided for information only and pulled together from travel advice and warnings for Lebanon by authorities around the globe to their citizens.

While we strive to offer you most recent travel advice details, it is given on an “as is” basis without warranty of any kind, expressed or implied.

This operators of this web site does not assume responsibility and will not be liable for any damages in connection to the information given.

General Cautions Travellers Need to Remember Whilst Travelling in Lebanon

Crime – Petty criminal activities such as pick pocketing in a congested surrounding to sexual assault and robberies do happen in larger cities of Lebanon. Ensure that all your personal belongings, including passports and other traveling documents, are safe at all times.

Terrorism – Constantly be aware of your surroundings when in public places. Be particularly watchful if going to sporting events and during religious holidays and other public events, as terrorists often make use of such occasions to mount attacks.

Demonstrations and Protests – Demonstrations might occur. Even peaceful demonstrations can turn violent any time. They can also result in disruptions to traffic and public transport. It is in your interest of safety to keep away from locations where demonstrations and huge events are taking place and adhere to the instructions of local authorities. Monitor local media in Lebanon for info on continuous protests in Lebanon.

Scams – Take caution in popular tourist areas in Lebanon, where scammers target travellers. If you have actually been scammed in Lebanon, reach a safe place immediately; take note, as soon as possible of the name and address of the facility where you were held; alert the police in Lebanon and get a record and if your credit card is used by the scammer call your credit card company to inform the fraud; they will likely ask for a copy of the police report to cancel the transaction.

Spiked Food and Drinks – Never ever leave food or beverages unattended or in the care of complete strangers when travelling in Lebanon or anywhere else. Watch out for accepting snacks, drinks, chewing gum or cigarettes from unknown acquaintances. These items may contain drugs that could put you at risk of sexual assault and robbery.

What is the entry/exit conditions for Lebanon?

Every nation or territory decides who can enter or exit through its borders, in the same manner Lebanon chooses exactly who enter its borders. The Government of your home country can not intervene on your behalf if you do not meet your Lebanon’s entry or exit requirements.

To learn more concerning the entry/exit requirement for Lebanon visit visa requirements for Lebanon or get the current details with the visa office at the Lebanese embassy in your home country.

Travel insurance for Lebanon

Health cover is one of the main reasons travellers get travel insurance. It will not prevent you getting sick or seriously injured, though it can stop you suffering financially. Medical help overseas can be extremely expensive.

You need to shell out for all medical care you receive overseas. You can’t expect to get free or subsidised care through your Lebanon’s public health system, like you would in your home country.

If you can’t pay, local authorities can detain you. The government from your home country can’t pay you health care expense for you, loan you cash or get you out of jail.

You need travel insurance policy for travelling to Lebanon . You also need to make sure you pick a plan that is right for you.

Read through the fine print of your travel insurance policy.

Declare all pre-existing conditions to your travel insurance company upfront. If you don’t, you may invalidate your travel insurance coverage.

Inform your travel insurance company the activities you plan to do, prior to you go. Many popular activities like winter sports are excluded in basic policies. You may need to pay extra.

Check if you have free credit card travel insurance. Some cards include travel insurance cover. Nonetheless, they frequently have various conditions than paid plans. Be aware of the differences.

If you’re going to Lebanon from a country that has a reciprocal healthcare agreement, you still require travel health insurance. Agreements are limited in what they’ll will cover.

If you have an incurable ailment, you may not be able to obtain basic travel insurance. Nonetheless you may be able to find a specialised insurance firm that covers you for health, accidents or property problems unrelated to your disease. Talk to your insurance provider to learn.

Discover more about obtaining worldwide travel insurance policy for Lebanon prior to you go.

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What’s it Really Like to Travel Lebanon?

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When I decided to travel Lebanon, I had little idea what to expect. There’s not a ton of information on the web, and very few travel bloggers have traveled there or written about it.

It was a bit of a question mark. But that was exactly what I wanted.

My mission has always been to show women how to travel the world safely. At the same time, though, I’ve always felt the urge to be a bit different — to write about places that don’t get the same coverage. In 2010, that meant doing an extended trip exclusively in Southeast Asia (believe it or not, that was very unusual back then!). In 2018, that meant exploring places like Lebanon when every other blogger seems to focus on massively overtouristed destinations like Iceland, Bali, and Barcelona.

And so I went to Lebanon in May 2018. I treated the trip like a fact-finding mission and spent a week exploring the small country as much as possible, experiencing what it’s like to travel Lebanon as a woman on her own so I could share the results with all of you.

So, what’s Lebanon actually like? I’m glad you asked.

Is Lebanon Safe?

Lebanon is much safer than people think it is, not unlike many destinations in the Middle East.  The media paints the image of war, suicide bombers, and riots, but this is nothing like what you would see in Lebanon (or the vast majority of the Middle East) today.

Lebanon has had wars in the past…like from 1975 to 1990. As in it ended when George H. W. Bush was president. More recently, a 34-day war took place in 2006 between Hezbollah and Israeli Defense Forces. That was 12 years ago, when George W. Bush was president. There hasn’t been a war in the 12 years since.

The violence that happens in Lebanon today is random and somewhat rare — not unlike mass shootings in the United States. I would argue that Lebanon is far safer than the US in this regard, as there are far fewer guns in Lebanon and there are checkpoints and military personnel everywhere.

So what does Lebanon actually feel like? It feels peaceful. It feels normal. It feels quite a bit like traveling in the southern Balkans, actually — between the Mediterranean setting, war scars in the distant past, and hovering the line between developing and developed. Not once did I ever feel remotely in danger.

I took safely seriously. I didn’t travel to refugee camps or the unsafe far northeast of the country just for the hell of it, and after hearing mixed reviews from locals, I decided to nix Tripoli, which in retrospect was probably excessively cautious.

This post by Against the Compass is an excellent resource for travel safety in Lebanon. It’s updated periodically with the latest safety information. I encourage you to save it and take a closer look before your trip.

I also recommend checking out the  US State Department travel advisory and UK travel safety advice  for Lebanon. I find that the US warnings tend to be more alarmist, while the UK warnings tend to be more realistic.

Most importantly, travel insurance is essential for trips to Lebanon — and to anywhere else in the world, frankly. If you need to be hospitalized with a broken bone or appendicitis, or if you have an emergency and miss your trip, or if you get robbed on a bus, travel insurance will help you recoup your financial losses. I use and recommend World Nomads .

Lebanon is a small country.

Almost everywhere in Lebanon can be reached within 2.5 hours of driving from Beirut. For that reason, I found it most efficient to base myself in Beirut and take day trips from there.

But beyond the convenience, Beirut is such a cool city. Most Middle Easterners consider it to be the most sophisticated city in the region, not least because it’s far more liberal than other parts of the Middle East. I was there during Ramadan and people were still drinking and partying in the streets. (In Dubai, you can’t even eat in public during Ramadan.)

Beirut is home to epic clubs, like B-108, a former bunker where the roof retracts and you dance beneath the stars. You can spend the days sunning yourself at beach clubs with pools or shopping in luxury at the souks. And yes, hipster neighborhoods exist in Beirut — check out Mar Mikhael, or specifically, Gourad/Armenia Street, which is full of tons of cool restaurants and bars.

I stayed at the Radisson Blu Martinez , which is a nice, if somewhat dated, hotel and is in a central location in the Hamra neighborhood. I paid around $75 per night.

Find deals on hotels in Beirut here .

Lebanon has little travel infrascture.

One thing that sets Lebanon apart from more popular Middle Eastern destinations like Israel, Jordan, Egypt, and the UAE is that there’s much less travel infrastructure. What does that mean?

There are hotels, but they’re more oriented toward business and domestic travelers. Transportation around the country is limited. There is essentially one company with that does day tours around the country and has a web presence. ONE COMPANY. And if you think you’re going to find a tourism office in each town you visit, you’re crazy.

Hell, Lonely Planet doesn’t even have a Lebanon guidebook — just a Lebanon chapter in the Middle East guidebook (which I downloaded to keep on my phone, and I recommend you get it for your trip, too).

That means that travel planning is more of a challenge, and most of your traveling will be amongst locals. That’s one reason why I don’t think Lebanon is a good country for newbie travelers, only more experienced ones.

Most of the other tourists I met in Lebanon were from Europe or other parts of the Middle East. I also met several expats from other countries who were based in Dubai.

Lebanon has outstanding Roman ruins.

If you love Ancient Rome in the least, you must check out two outstanding sets of ruins: Baalbek and Anjer. Both are UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the Beqaa Valley. The Jupiter Temple at Baalbek is one of the largest Roman temples on the planet. You don’t appreciate the true scale of it until you’re standing in the middle of it!

Also notable are the ruins of Tyre and Byblos, both of which are perched beautifully on the Mediterranean. Both of those are UNESCO World Heritage Sites, too. Basically, if you’re into ruins, you’ll have a great time in Lebanon.

The driving in Lebanon is INSANE.

A lot of countries have crazy driving, which shouldn’t come as a surprise to a seasoned traveler. Lebanon is yet another one of them.

I always describe crazy driving in other countries as either Vietnamese-style or Maltese-style. In Vietnam, the driving is crazy, but the drivers all follow an established set of (somewhat ludicrous) rules. In Malta, the driving is reckless with no regard for any drivers or pedestrians. In my opinion, Lebanon falls into the Vietnamese category — it’s chaotic, but everyone is on the same page.

For this reason, I don’t recommend driving in Lebanon unless you are an expert driver who relishes driving in crazy environments. We all have a friend who is into challenging driving — this is their place to shine. If that’s not you, I urge you not to drive in Lebanon. You’ll leave with far fewer gray hairs as a result.

Red roses bloom everywhere in Lebanon.

That’s just a lovely perk of traveling in Lebanon. I doubt this happens year-round, but my trip in late May and early June was resplendent with roses. (Related: the rose emoji is very popular in the Arabic-speaking world. Think of it as the Middle East’s “100.”)

Lebanon is both very Middle Eastern and very European.

Lebanon wears many identities at once.  You’ll find mosques and churches practically next door to each other in Beirut. Some Lebanese people speak French and dress western-style, while others speak only Arabic and dress as their ancestors have for centuries. There is also a huge Armenian community in Beirut.

Byblos (Jbeil), for example, felt very European. With the fancy boats, high-end restaurants, and women in sundresses, their long hair flowing, it felt almost literally like Trogir, Croatia, or Budva, Montenegro. Only the souk would tip you off that you were in the Middle East.

But on the bus to Tyre (Sour), women were totally covered up and none spoke any English. That felt much more like Amman or central Turkey. It’s amazing that you can have both of these kinds of experiences within a short drive of Beirut — or even without leaving Beirut!

The Cedars of Lebanon still exist — but they’re a fraction of what they once were.

The Cedars of God are some of the most famous trees in the world. In ancient times, endless forests grew over the mountains in Lebanon. The trees were lauded for their strength and used for shipbuilding and later railroad-building.

But over time, deforestation took the trees away from us, and there are very few left today. I went to see the Cedars of God park, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but I almost wish I hadn’t gone — it just left me feeling so sad to see so few cedars left.

Hezbollah controls some territory in Lebanon.

Hezbollah is classified as a terrorist organization by several governments, including the US and EU, and they control some of the land in the eastern part of the country, including the Beqaa Valley. This includes the ruins of Baalbek and Anjer.

This might sound scary on the surface, and there has been violence in this region in the past, but for the most part, it’s a peaceful place to visit today. I visited on a tour (though you can also visit with a hired driver) and we went through several checkpoints, as is customary in Lebanon, but beyond that you wouldn’t notice any difference.

There was one strange thing, though — the yellow Hezbollah flag was for sale everywhere. It was like a souvenir. I did not partake.

To keep an eye on current developments in the Beqaa Valley and other regions in Lebanon, I recommend following this map .

Lebanon has lots of day trips from Beirut.

There are three primary ways to travel around Lebanon:

• Hire a driver.
• Take a group tour.
• Take public transportation.

I decided to try all three of these over the course of my trip.

Hiring a private driver is the best-case scenario because it allows you to time your visits for photography and you’re not on anyone else’s schedule. However, it’s also the most expensive. Most private driver rates start at $185 per day; I was once offered $150 per day; you may be able to bring it down to $100 per day if you have a Lebanese friend who “knows a guy” (and most Lebanese do). That was more than I wanted to spend as a solo traveler.

Because of that, I decided to just use Uber to get myself to Jeita Grotto and Byblos and back to Beirut. There was no wifi at Jeita Grotto (and I had no SIM card), so I bargained a ride with a local to get from the grotto to Byblos. Later, took awhile to find an Uber driver willing to pick me up in Byblos, but I eventually got one!

Here are some of the most popular tours:

• Anjar, Baalbek, and Ksara — I did this tour and recommend it. See two sets of ruins (Anjar and Baalbek) that are UNESCO World Heritage Sites, then go wine tasting in Ksara.
• Cedars, Bcharré, and Kozhaya — I did this tour and recommend it if you want to see the Cedars and/or a lot of mountain scenery; otherwise, I don’t think it’s essential. Know that the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Cedars park is tiny, but a nice walk. Bcharré is home to an unremarkable Gibran museum but a GORGEOUS view; Kozhaya is home to a very cool monastery carved into the rocks.
• Byblos, Jeita Grotto and Harissa — I visited Byblos and Jeita Grotto via Uber/taxi but skipped Harissa. I don’t think it’s necessary to do this as a group tour; it’s close to Beirut. I preferred doing my own thing and having time to explore. Byblos is a gorgeous village home to UNESCO World Heritage-listed ruins; Harissa has outstanding views down to the coast, and Jeita Grotto is home to glorious cave systems underground (and no photography is allowed).
• Tyre, Sidon and Maghdouche — I visited Tyre via public transportation and could have easily added Sidon as well; I don’t think this one is necessary to do as a group tour. Tyre is a great little city home to UNESCO World Heritage-listed ruins; Sidon is famous for its souks and Sea Castle, and Maghdouche has some great views.
• There’s also an Anjar, Baalbek and Kozhaya tour that combines the ruins of the Beqaa Valley with the Cedars in a slightly longer trip. Knowing what I know now, I probably would have done it to give myself an extra day.

As for public transportation, I would have done much more of it if I had known how easy it would be! I simply got an Uber to the minibus station (Cola Intersection), asked for “Sour?” (the Arabic name for Tyre), and got pointed to a bus.

There are some unwritten rules for taking minibuses in Lebanon: ask for the bus you need; the first two rows are unofficially reserved for women; men do not sit next to women unless there’s nowhere else to sit; tell the driver when to stop and pay him on the way out. Women should dress more conservatively (long sleeves and pants) and wear headphones if you don’t want to talk to anyone.

Solo female travel in Lebanon is safe and wonderful.

This was the most pleasant surprise in Lebanon — that I received so much respect.  I didn’t know what to expect and was on my guard.

I took the bus from Beirut to Tyre, and I was told by my friend beforehand that the front two rows are unofficially reserved for women, and men don’t sit next to women unless there’s no other room. Well, there wasn’t any room on the way back from Tyre, which made me nervous. But the man who sat next to me left a good six inches between us on the seats.

Can you believe that? Men in New York won’t even close their legs on the subway, aggressively spreading out as much as they can. Lebanon almost made me cry with happiness.

Solo Female Travel in Lebanon: A Guide

I also didn’t get stared at, which blew my mind. As a white woman traveling solo, I’m used to being stared at in the Middle East and many other places in the world.

It helped that I dressed more conservatively for the most part, including covering to my elbows, neck, and ankles in more conservative areas, though you could get away with wearing more revealing clothing in Beirut and Byblos.

I must include that Lebanon wasn’t perfect — just as I was marveling about what a good time I was having in Tyre, a man rode by on a bicycle and made kissing noises at me. Well. That happens pretty much everywhere in the world except Japan, so it shouldn’t be surprising. I get harassed three times on the walk home from the subway. It’s part of life as a woman.

Altogether: harassment was minimal, and I was grateful for that.

Lebanese food is DELICIOUS.

Middle Eastern food is outstanding — and Lebanon is often said to have the best food in the region.   As soon as I arrived, the first dish I had to have was some moutabal (roasted eggplant and tahini dip) with some mint lemonade.

Lebanon’s cuisine is based on mezze — small plates. You’ll definitely have pita with hummus, falafel, baba ghanouj, tabbouleh, grape leaves, pickled vegetables — and I won’t lie, often French fries. Next up is often a variety of roasted meats, especially lamb or goat or chicken, or seafood if you’re on the coast, with rice or vegetable dishes, or delicious stews. And the coffee is potent, served in tiny cups.

Almost everything that I had in Lebanon was delicious, whether it was a streetside shwarma in Tyre or a plate of square-cut, oil-drenched grilled calamari in Byblos.

Lebanon is also a fantastic destination for vegetarians and vegans.  You can always plenty of delicious plant-based options.

Lebanon has good wine, too.

Lebanon is one of very few Middle Eastern countries where you’ll find a decent wine scene. If you visit the ruins at Baalbek or Anjer, whether on a tour or with a private driver, it’s common to stop at a winery on the way back. We visited Chateau Ksara as part of our Baalbek/Anjer tour, and I would recommend it to others. Enjoy it!

You can go skiing and hit the beach in the same day in Lebanon.

I don’t even ski, but this is something I want to do sometime — go skiing and hit the beach in the same day just because I can . Lots of destinations brag that you can do this — Southern California, Slovenia, Andalusia — and Lebanon is yet another.

Don’t expect the slopes to be on par with Colorado, but there are a number of ski resorts around the country. Then come down to lie on the beach in Byblos or Tyre or at a beach club in Beirut. Just because you can!

Lebanese people are amazing.

People are amazing everywhere, though. I believe that everywhere in the world is made up of 98% wonderful people and 2% assholes. Most people are good people, and if they’re not, they’re probably having a rough day. Lebanon was no exception: I was warmly welcomed everywhere I went.

Arabic hospitality is legendary, though, and I was spoiled again and again by new Lebanese friends I met on my trip. Nobody would let me pay for a thing! It blew my mind.

I bought an orange juice from this mother and son pictured above, and even though they spoke no English and I spoke about five words of Arabic, we tried to communicate with each other as best we could, laughing like crazy. I’m pretty sure they tried to set me up with her older son, showing me Instagram photos of him perched in front of scenic overlooks, a dramatic pout on his face. (This happens a lot when you travel solo!)

To my great surprise, I was constantly asked if I was here visiting family. When I said no, people were often shocked. “But your parents are Lebanese?” they would ask me. (Come to think of it, when I was in Jordan in 2011, my guide Ibrahim told me I couldn’t pass for Jordanian, but I looked like I had one Lebanese parent.) And I feel like I met a ton of people who looked like me in Lebanon. Far more than usual.

Being ethnically ambiguous is hugely beneficial on my travels — I’m able to blend in far more easily than an Irish redhead could. But that has also led to wonderful experiences, where locals have claimed me as one of their own, declaring that their blood must run through my veins — “Look at your eyes! Look at your nose! You’re obviously one of us!”

Lebanon is best for experienced travelers.

I’ll be completely honest here: I would not recommend Lebanon to novice travelers unless you have contacts here, family here, or people willing to host you. It’s a beautiful country, a friendly country, and an interesting country, but it’s not an easy or obvious country in which to travel.

Let me give you an example: when on the minibus back from Tyre, the driver got to Beirut, got sick of the traffic, and decided he just wanted to drop me off in the middle of a major intersection. Lovely. I had to figure out how to cross a multi-lane street, how to flag down a totally-not-official taxi, meaning some random guy in a random car (I had no SIM card, therefore no Uber), and get back to my place from there. Not that hard for a seasoned traveler, but I wouldn’t want to send a newbie traveler into a situation like that!

At the same time, Lebanon is awesome, but it’s not a showstopper.  In my opinion, the true showstopper of the Middle East is Jordan. Lebanon whispers rather than sings at the top of its lungs, and sometimes that’s exactly what I want in a destination.

If you’re going to the Middle East for the first time, I still recommend Jordan above all. Jordan has the best mix of safety, outstanding cultural sites, natural beauty, a wide variety of things to do, and infrastructure for travelers. I think it outdoes Lebanon on almost every level, though I think Beirut is a much cooler city than Amman.

Jordan: The Perfect Introduction to the Middle East

But if you’ve already done some travel in the Middle East and you’re looking for an interesting new destination, and especially if you’re looking for a cool major city, Lebanon is a fabulous choice for you.

And at this point in time, it’s still a relatively offbeat destination. In an age where everyone is going to Iceland and Bali and Barcelona, Lebanon makes a nice change from everyone else in your Instagram feed.

Lebanon pairs well with some destinations — and poorly with others.

One reason why I visited Lebanon was because I was planning to visit Cyprus, pictured above, and the two countries are only a 45-minute flight apart. It was natural to pair them together! The two countries have so much in common in some ways, but are completely different in others.

I flew to Beirut from Amsterdam via Istanbul on Pegasus Airlines, which makes Turkey a great destination to combine with Lebanon. Thanks to direct flights, you can easily combine Lebanon with a trip to Jordan, Egypt, or the UAE.

However, Lebanon does not pair well with Israel. You can’t visit Lebanon if you have evidence of Israel or the Palestinian Territories in your passport (and even though Israeli officials often don’t stamp your passport, Lebanese officials look for exit stamps from Jordan or Egypt). Israel will let you in with a Lebanon stamp, but expect to be grilled about your visit.

How to get around this? Fly into Israel and don’t let them stamp you. Or renew your passport before going to Lebanon. Or get a second passport, if your country allows you to do so (the US does). Or just visit Israel after Lebanon.

More on Lebanon:

13 Stunning Places to Visit in Lebanon

Solo Female Travel in Lebanon: Is it Safe?

Essential Info: For my trip I bought the Lebanon chapter in Lonely Planet’s Middle East guidebook , which I downloaded on my phone and found very useful.

In Lebanon I stayed at the  Radisson Blu Martinez  in Beirut, which was a quality, if dated, hotel and was centrally located in the Hamra neighborhood. Rates from $75. Find deals on more Beirut hotels here and see all Beirut Airbnbs here .

In Beirut and sometimes beyond (as far as Byblos), I used Uber to get around. It was cheap and easy. I recommend getting a SIM card if you can; I didn’t and it made it impossible to summon Ubers when I didn’t have wifi.

During my trip I took three tours: the Free Walking Tour of Beirut (remember to tip your guide), a paid day trip to  Cedars, Bcharré, and Kozhaya , and a paid day trip to  Anjar, Baalbek, and Ksara . I traveled independently via public minibus to Tyre via Sidon (Saïda) and via Uber and taxi to Jeita Grotto and Byblos.

Bring good shoes to Lebanon. I have bad arches and live in comfy but cute shoes from The Walking Company . I strongly recommend black ABEO flats , which have fantastic arch support. I wore them every day in Lebanon. You might also like a pair of black boots  if you’re visiting in the chillier months.

Bring a crossbody purse that zips to keep your belongings close and safe. Amazon has lots of affordable options . If you want to spend more, Rebecca Minkoff makes some of the best . You can also check out my guide to the best travel purses .

Travel insurance is essential for trips to Lebanon — whether you trip on the steps at Baalbek’s temples and break your ankle, or get robbed on a bus in Beirut, or if you have to cancel your trip due to an emergency, travel insurance will sort you out. I use and recommend World Nomads .

Have you traveled to Lebanon? Does it seem like your kind of destination?