international 9400i cruise control

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• 1999-2007 Ford Super Duties
• 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine & Drivetrain

Cruise control not working right

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My cruise control started taking breaks every so often on Thursday and continues to do so. It works fine when it works but will cut out and not work for 30 seconds to 30 minutes and then work again. If I turn it off or tap the brakes it quits like it should but then won't come on again. I thought about the brake light switch but I was pulling a trailer and the trailer brakes never came on when it quit working. Never had this problem before so I'm clueless, any ideas?  

One possibility is the Variable Speed Sensor (VSS) located on the rear differential. About a $25 part IIRC and easy to change. Just one thing to look into...  

Easy, there, Ryan! Let's not send this fellow on a wild goose chase! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif I am having the exact same problem as this guy right now!!! There are <font color="red"> NINE DIFFERENT FACTORS </font> that need to be favorable in order for your cruise control to work. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif Ford and their 'better ideas.' /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif Don't do what I did, and start changing likely suspects because DieselStop members have told you what fixed their cruise control. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Failure of the following components will cause your cruise control to stop working: 1) Brake light bulbs 2) Brake pedal switch 3) Brake booster pressure switch 4) Parking brake switch 5) Clutch switch 6) Cruise control switches 7) Clock Spring 8) VSS 9) PCM or GEM, depending on year The first action you should take is to check your brake lights, and replace any burned-out bulbs. Do a quick and easy check of some basic parameters: Check that your brake pedal switch works. Check that your parking brake instrument cluster lamp works when the key is first turned on, and that that warning light isn't on unless your parking brake is set. Watch your Airbag light, and see if it stays on for more than 3 or 4 seconds after starting, or if it flickers on and off randomly. The second action you should take is to perform a scan for codes with a scan tool capable of initiating your PCM's self-tests. Auto Enginuity is one, I used a friend's Snap-On unit. Don't do what I did, and start changing parts before you truly know what's going on. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif  

I didn't mean to suggest that that was the fix, just listing one possibility. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif I should've just pointed him to your thread! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif It's got some good info.  

[ QUOTE ] Easy, there, Ryan! Let's not send this fellow on a wild goose chase! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif I am having the exact same problem as this guy right now!!! There are <font color="red"> NINE DIFFERENT FACTORS </font> that need to be favorable in order for your cruise control to work. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif Ford and their 'better ideas.' /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif Don't do what I did, and start changing likely suspects because DieselStop members have told you what fixed their cruise control. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Failure of the following components will cause your cruise control to stop working: 1) Brake light bulbs 2) Brake pedal switch 3) Brake booster pressure switch 4) Parking brake switch 5) Clutch switch 6) Cruise control switches 7) Clock Spring 8) VSS 9) PCM or GEM, depending on year The first action you should take is to check your brake lights, and replace any burned-out bulbs. Do a quick and easy check of some basic parameters: Check that your brake pedal switch works. Check that your parking brake instrument cluster lamp works when the key is first turned on, and that that warning light isn't on unless your parking brake is set. Watch your Airbag light, and see if it stays on for more than 3 or 4 seconds after starting, or if it flickers on and off randomly. The second action you should take is to perform a scan for codes with a scan tool capable of initiating your PCM's self-tests. Auto Enginuity is one, I used a friend's Snap-On unit. Don't do what I did, and start changing parts before you truly know what's going on. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif [/ QUOTE ] Does your work now ?fixed?  

Nope. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif New clutch switch goes in on Saturday. Look for an update then. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif  

Mine was the clutch position switch.  

Ok, thanks guys, looks like it isn't real easy to track down the problem...... especially since mine works sometimes. Sounds like I may have a weekend project on my hands.  

Success! I have fixed my cruise control. It was the clutch switch. I certainly wish I had scanned for codes first.  

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International Trucks Diagnostics Trouble Codes (DTCs)

International trucks fault codes list (dtcs) for model: 3200, 4100, 4300, 4400, 7300, 7400, 7500, 7600, 7700, 8500, 8600, be 200, ce bus, cxt, durastar, lonestar, mxt, prostar, rxt, transtar, workstar.

See also:  International Trucks Service Repair Manuals PDF

International 8600

Fault codes in PDF

International 3200, 4100, 4300, 4400, 7300, 7400, 7500, 7600, 7700, 8500, 8600 fault code list (PDF)     – download

DISPLAYING DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES

The ability to display diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) is an optional feature. Codes may be displayed on either the gauge cluster or an optional vehicle information display (VID). The vehicle must be equipped with the option to display codes in both cases. Codes will not be displayed on the gauge cluster if the vehicle is equipped with the VID.

 VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH OPTION TO DISPLAY CODES

 displaying codes on the gauge cluster (non-vid equipped vehicles).

To display codes on vehicles not equipped with a VID:

• Set the parking brake.
• Turn the key switch to the ACCESSORY position to view only previously active codes. Turn the key switch to the IGNITION position to view both active and previously active codes.
• Momentarily press the Cruise “ON” switch and the Cruise “Resume” switch at the same time.

A gauge sweep will be performed on the gauges. The gauge cluster will then display the following information for 5 seconds:

• Software Rev: XXX
• Hardware Rev: XXX
• Active Faults: XXX
• Total Faults: XXX

NOTE – The gauge cluster will only display “Software Rev” and “Hardware Rev” for 5 seconds followed by the message “Diagnostic Trouble Codes are not available” if the vehicle is not equipped with the option to display codes.

If faults are present, the gauge cluster display will show each diagnostic trouble code for 10 seconds and then automatically scroll to the next entry and continue to cycle through the faults. Once all faults have been displayed the number of faults will be displayed again, then the cycle will repeat. To manually cycle through the fault list press and release the cluster display selector button. The following information will be displayed for each fault:

SPN: XXXX FMI: XX Active OC: XXX SA: XXX

SPN: XXXX FMI: XX Previously Active OC: XXX SA: XXX

NOTE – Turning the key switch off, turning the key switch to the CRANK position, or releasing the park brake will take the gauge cluster out of the diagnostic mode.

Displaying Codes on the VID (if equipped)

The VID can be used to display all diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) on the vehicle. Suspect parameter number (SPN), failure mode indicator (FMI) and occurrence count numbers are listed. Source addresses and DTC descriptions are presented in plain text.

NOTE – The VID will display “Not Available” if a DTC description is not available for a particular fault.

Displaying codes will only be allowed if all of the following conditions are true:

• The key switch is in the IGNITION position. • AND displaying codes is allowed due to vehicle orderable options • AND the programmable parameter “Diagnostics” is enabled using Diamond Logic® Builder (DLB). • The vehicle is not moving (the Vehicle Speed is equal to zero). • The feature is not password protected to prevent unauthorized access. Refer to the Vehicle Information Display Owner’s Manual for more information.

Perform the following steps if all of the above conditions are met:

1. Go to the main menu screen

NOTE – The following selections will not be available if the vehicle is not equipped with the option to display codes.

2. Select “DIAGNOSTIC CODES”

3. Select “ACTIVE” or “INACTIVE”. The VID may initiate a password prompt if the VID has been password protected. Refer to the Vehicle Information Display Owner’s Manual for more information.

The VID will indicate “NO FAULT DETECTED” if faults are not found. Scroll through the list of faults if faults are present. The following information will be displayed for each fault: SPN : FMI OC SA DTC Description

CLEARING DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES

Previously active diagnostic trouble codes can only be cleared by a service tool, such as Diamond Logic® Builder (DLB). Some previously active codes may not be cleared by this method.

DEFINITIONS

• “SPN” represents the Suspect Parameter Number. This number identif es the item for which diagnostics are being reported.
• FMI” is the Failure Mode Indicator. This number represents the type of failure detected. Refer to Failure Mode Indicators (FMI) below for more information.
• Active” or “Previously Active” will be displayed to identify whether a fault is currently active or if the fault was previously active.
• OC” is the Occurrence Count. This number represents the number of times a fault has gone from previously active to active.
• “SA” is the Source Address. This number identif es the module reporting the fault. Refer to Source Addresses (SA) for more information.

FAILURE MODE INDICATORS (FMI)

FMI=0 – Data Valid But Above Normal Operational Range – Most Severe Level FMI=1 – Data Valid But Below Normal Operational Range – Most Severe Level FMI=2 – Data Erratic, Intermittent Or Incorrect FMI=3 – Voltage Above Normal, Or Shorted To High Source FMI=4 – Voltage Below Normal, Or Shorted To Low Source FMI=5 – Current Below Normal Or Open Circuit FMI=6 – Current Above Normal Or Grounded Circuit FMI=7 – Mechanical System Not Responding Or Out Of Adjustment FMI=8 – Abnormal Frequency Or Pulse Width Or Period FMI=9 – Abnormal Update Rate FMI=10 – Abnormal Rate Of Change FMI=11 – Root Cause Not Known FMI=12 – Bad Intelligent Device Or Component FMI=13 – Out Of Calibration FMI=14 – Special Instructions FMI=15 – Data Valid But Above Normal Operating Range – Least Severe Level FMI=16 – Data Valid But Above Normal Operating Range – Moderately Severe Level FMI=17 – Data Valid But Below Normal Operating Range – Least Severe Level FMI=18 – Data Valid But Below Normal Operating Range – Moderately Severe Level FMI=19 – Received Network Data In Error FMI=20 – Data Drifted High FMI=21 – Data Drifted Low FMI=31 – Condition Exists

SOURCE ADDRESSES (SA)

NOTE – The available source addresses will vary depending on each vehicle configuration.

NOTE – Diagnostic Trouble Codes listed in this document are Body Controller, Auxiliary Gauge Switch Pack, Secondary Instrument Cluster, Instrument Cluster, Rear HVAC Module, and Compass Module.

DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) LIST

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One thought on “ International Trucks Diagnostics Trouble Codes (DTCs) ”

I am thinking of purchasing a 2016 international prostar. It has 2 fault codes that I can not find what they are 1) SPN 111, FMI 1, OC 1, SA 1 (2) SPN 524285, FMI 14, OC 1, SA 150 . I hope you can tell me what these codes mean and how to correct them Thank you

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Just and Idea but I would say your brake pedal spring is broke and not returning the pedal all the way up or the switch under the pedal failed. Check your cruise control to see if it engages. If it dont I would start with the pedal not returning to top. Put your foot under and lift up.

Keep us informed what you find.

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Steering Wheel-Mounted Cruise Control Switch For International

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Description

Additional information, cruise control switch fits international.

** High Quality Aftermarket Replacement Part (Not OEM) ***

*** Replaces OEM Number(s) 2506326C1, 2598851C1, 3877814C1

* This Item Is Special Order. This Item Will Not Be Able To Be Canceled And Is Non-Returnable.

* Fits International 4100 2006 thru 2012 * Fits International 4300 2002 thru 2016 * Fits International 4400 2002 thru 2017 * Fits International 7300 2000 thru 2019 * Fits International 7400 2000 thru 2019 * Fits International 7500 2000 thru 2019 * Fits International 7600 2000 thru 2019 * Fits International 7700 2000 thru 2019 * Fits International 8500 2002 thru 2007 * Fits International 8600 2003 thru 2007 * Fits International TranStar 2008 thru 2015 * Fits International ProStar 2008 thru 2018

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International 9200I / 9400 Electrical Problems ABS

Discussion in ' International Forum ' started by jdp2011 , Feb 5, 2015 .

jdp2011 Bobtail Member

This post is FYI. The info and pictures are from a 2004 9200i. Of course all trucks are spec ed a little different the part#s listed and pictures should apply to most 9000 series international trucks. On the drivers side lower fire wall there is a electrical connector that handles most all the wiring from the ABS sensors + other accessories depending on your truck. This connector has no rubber seal between the two connector halves this allows water to enter and corrode the terminals. In my case the corrosion was so bad many of the male terminals were no longer making contact and broken. The connector on my truck has 30+ wires running through it from multiple different wiring harness's . Replacing all wire harness was not an option. International has replacement individual terminals for this connector picture shown below. Don't expect your dealership parts department to be much help, mine took 3 days and still could not find the the part#s. I was frustrated drove to my dealer and spoke to the service manger 15 min later he found the correct terminals in stock at the same dealer. I guess the parts department was clueless? Be proactive and take a look at your truck's connector save your self time and money. The connector has a collar on it, turn it counter clockwise to release. Put some die electric grease on the terminals if they look ok. If you need to replace the terminals they require a special tool to disengage the tabs that hold them in the connector. I will take another picture of the tool and post it. This is a Deutsch style connector. Male terminal part# 3567154C2 Female 3567157C1  

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Heavyd Road Train Member

Yep, I have redone this connector on several trucks over the years. A little dielectric grease goes a long way!  

Tools required to replace terminals.  

double yellow Road Train Member

Thanks! I have replaced my RR abs sensor, but have still been getting intermittent codes for that position...  

Did that connector have anything thing to do with your ABS problem? double yellow said: ↑ Thanks! I have replaced my RR abs sensor, but have still been getting intermittent codes for that position... Click to expand...

Traveler110 Bobtail Member

2006 isx 435hp just paid 668.00 to be told absolutely nothing wrong with my electrical system including ecm but yet my j1708 plug shows the shop computer my speed movement so on everything. But my ominatrax isnt reading truck movement 99.9 percent of the time also my oil temp,trans temp,rear axle temp gauge show no temps or movement???  

Traveler110 said: ↑ 2006 isx 435hp just paid 668.00 to be told absolutely nothing wrong with my electrical system including ecm but yet my j1708 plug shows the shop computer my speed movement so on everything. But my ominatrax isnt reading truck movement 99.9 percent of the time also my oil temp,trans temp,rear axle temp gauge show no temps or movement??? Click to expand...

You may want to unhook the that cab connector I have pictured in the 1st post and check and make sure none of the terminals are corroded or damaged. Water can get into that connector and cause problems.  

jdp2011 said: ↑ You may want to unhook the that cab connector I have pictured in the 1st post and check and make sure none of the terminals are corroded or damaged. Water can get into that connector and cause problems. Click to expand...

QUALITYTRUCK Road Train Member

If you want to, drill a hole in firewall next to connector. Slip 2 wires through and bypass the 2 bad pins by butt connecting wires on either side of connector.  

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