roulement bb90 trek

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Acces point: 18 USD/EUR Home delivery: 26 USD/EUR Home delivery - Carbon neutral: 28 USD/EUR

BB90 Bottom Bracket for Trek Shimano

Product description.

BB90 is the Trek oversized bottom bracket standard and is only found on Trek road bikes. The shell is 90.5mm wide and is designed to work with 24mm spindles and road cranks and have the bearings inside the shell. The CeramicSpeed Bearings come as two bearings, which are then pressed into the frame. Those two bearings consist of either CeramicSpeed Standard or Coated Bearings. Both feature super smooth, super round CeramicSpeed Balls contained in hardened-steel races. The Coated version has a metallic coating laid onto the races, making it even smoother and harder, resulting in lower drag and longer life. In The Box

• 2 BB90 bearings
• 2 dust covers with integrated spacers
• All Round Grease

Product Highlights

Lowest friction

Optimized power transfer

Longest Product Lifetime

High resistance to contamination and corrosion

• Specification

Alternatives

• Testimonials
• Coated upgrade
• Installation

Lowest Friction

Optimized Power Transfer

This product is rated 4.8 of 5.0 stars. It has received 25 reviews.

General Maintenance for CeramicSpeed Bottom Bracket and Wheel Bearings

Overview for how to clean and maintain CeramicSpeed Bearings used in Bottom Brackets and Wheel Hubs.

It is always important to follow these instructions and apply the proper maintenance to your CeramicSpeed Bottom Brackets and Bearings in order to achieve the lowest friction and the best longevity.

Installation of Shimano cranks on CeramicSpeed Bottom Brackets

CeramicSpeed Bottom Bracket Installation Guide for BB30 and BB90 Bearings

An overview for installing BB30 and BB90 Bottom Bracket Bearings from CeramicSpeed

Roulements CyclingCeramic Trek BB90 Shimano

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CyclingCeramic

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Description

Les boîtiers de pédalier CyclingCeramic sont combinés à des roulements céramiques à faible friction et plus durable que des roulements standards. La haute qualité de finition des boîtiers de pédaliers leur permettent d'atteindre des performances élevés. Ils ont été dessinés pour offrir un ensemble léger et grâce au design des joints d’étanchéité, permettre une protection maximale.

L'extrême dureté des billes CyclingCeramic donne lieu à une longévité des roulements 4 à 5 fois supérieure face aux roulements standards, la graisse spéciale permet de garder vos roulements étanche et les protégera des éléments extérieurs pouvant nuire au bon fonctionnement.

Les billes en nitrure de silicium sont utilisées afin d'améliorer les performances des roulements. Les billes en céramique sont plus légères, rigides, lisses, dures, résistantes à la corrosion. Elles requièrent moins de lubrification et ont une expansion thermique inférieure à leurs homologues en acier. Les billes sont polies pendant 45 jours en continue afin d'obtenir des billes plus rondes et lisses. Cela permet ainsi de diminuer la surface de contact au maximum.

• Compatible axe de pédalier 24mm (Shimano) / cadre diamètre interne 41mm / largeur de boite 90.5mm (montage pressfit)
• Aluminium 7075.
• Durabilité de vie 3 à 5 fois supérieure aux roulements classiques.
• Billes céramiques 58% plus légères, 121% plus résistantes et 68% plus dures que les billes acier.
• Billes céramiques de grade 3 (polies pendant plus de 45 jours) pour les frictions quasi inexistantes.
• Boitier dessiné, usiné et assemblé en France dans l'atelier CyclingCeramic.
• Poids : 40g
• 2 x roulements
• Notice de montage

Référence :  CCBB901

Comment identifier mon boitier de pédalier ? En savoir +

Votre vélo craque lorsque vous appuyez fort sur les pédales, le mouvement du pédalier à perdu de sa fluidité ou a pris du jeu ? Les symptômes sont clairs : il est temps de changer votre boîtier pédalier. Comme la totalité des pièces qui composent votre vélo, le boîtier de pédalier et surtout ses roulements sont soumis à l'usure.

Son remplacement est une opération simple si elle est bien préparée, en effet la multiplication des standards de roulements, de pédalier et de cadre pourra en décourager certains. Nous allons donc essayer de vous guider dans cette jungle des standards. Le boîtier de pédalier est l'interface entre votre pédalier et votre cadre , la première chose à faire est donc d' identifier quel pédalier vous souhaitez faire rentrer dans quel cadre ?

* Nous vous conseillons de démonter votre boitier d'origine pour mesurer avec précision les dimensions de la boïte de pédalier de votre cadre. ** Cette compatibilité est donnée à titre indicatif, il éxiste également des boitiers "adaptateurs" qui permettent de mixer les standards.

PLUS D'INFORMATIONS

Comment remplacer un boitier Press-Fit ? Voir le tutoriel

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• Filtres actifs 1 étoile Retirer le filtre  1 étoile ✘
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• Tout supprimer ✘ Enlever tous les filtres
• Âge 45 à 54 ans
• Quel sportif êtes-vous ? Route - Cyclosportive
• Quel est votre niveau ? Eclairé

Roulements de Qualté

Roulements de qualité, pédalage plus fluide à voir dans le temps. Petit bémol sur l'emballage Alltricks la boite livré juste dans un un sac plastique est arrivé toute écrasé avec les roulements qui se baladaient à l'interieur. A mettre la boite dans un petit carton la prochaine fois au prix des roulements.

• Rapport qualité-prix du produit
• Quel sportif êtes-vous ? Route - Loisir

Problème qualité

J'ai commandé ce produit. A la réception, je me suis rendu compte qu'il avait déjà été ouvert et qu'il présentait un problème qualité. Je l'ai retourné et j'en ai commandé un autre, en montrant le problème et en demandant à ce qu'il soit contrôlé avant envoi. Le second avait exactement le même problème...

• Quel sportif êtes-vous ? VTT - XC

Excellent produit

J’ai installé les roulements et cela rend le pédalier très fluide

• Âge 35 à 44 ans
• Quel sportif êtes-vous ? Route - Course
• Quel est votre niveau ? Expert

Produit au top

Le top , le pédalier tourne tout seul ( attention d’avoir les bons outils pour poser les roulements sur votre vélo ) ce qui est mon cas! Achetez aussi le chasse et pose roulement..

• Quel sportif êtes-vous ? Route - Tourisme
• Quel est votre niveau ? Amateur

Vraiment bien

C'est la première fois que je roule avec un boîtier céramic et je peux vous dire qu'il y a vraiment une différence, beaucoup plus de fluidité, par contre aucune notice pour le montage vous avez intérêt à être un minimum connaisseur..

Bonjour Monsieur, dans chacune des boites de montage il y a une notice avec un QR code et un lien direct vers notre site internet et notre chaine Youtube ou toutes les vidéos de montage sont en ligne. En effet, quand vous commandez sur un site en ligne plutot que dans une boutique physique, il faut s'attendre à a minima bricoler.

Excellente qualité.

Roulements de qualité qui restent accessibles en termes de prix. Le fonctionnement est au rendez vous, reste à savoir la durée dans le temps. Très satisfait de mon achat dans l'immédiat.

• Âge 25 à 34 ans

Très fluide

Roulement acheté pour mettre sur mon Madone correspond parfaitement les roulement sont très fluide à voir pour leur durée de vie avec le temp.

• Âge 55 à 64 ans

Fluidité excellente

Aussitôt reçu et installé, qualité irréprochable, à voir avec le temps !

• Précédent Reviews ◄

Bonjour, Cela convient-il pour un trek emonda sl6 2020 ? Sportivement 

Bonjour, Oui c'est bien compatible, Sportivement

Ces roulements sont-ils compatibles avec mon vélo (trek madone 5.2 2014)? Merci

Bonjour, C'est bien compatible si vous avez un pédalier Shimano, Sportivement

Si c'est un boîtier bb90...je pense que oui.

Sur ce Madone les montage était avec des roulements 37x7x24mm, ces roulements céramics font 37x7x25 mm. il faut donc les bagues-joints de réduction en plastique pour compenser le 1 mm de différence.

Je les ai montés sur mon Trek emonda SLR8 équipe du boîtier BB90 presfitt ... parfait ...

Bonjour , Ces roulements pédalier céramiques sont ils bien adaptés pour un vélo trek Émonda 2019 ( pédalier bb90 et pédales Ultégra )merci

Bonjour, en principe oui selon vos infos de votre matériel, je les ai installés sur mon Trek Madone SL6 2019 boitier BB90. Installation et fonctionnement impeccables.

Oui sans problème ! 

oui parfaitement adaptés mais pour les avoir achetés ils sont mort au bout de meme pas un an

Bonjour, Oui ce sont biens les roulements qu'il vous faut, Sportivement

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How To Remove & Fit A BB90 Press Fit Bottom Bracket

In this post, complete with video, I show you how to remove and fit a BB90 Bottom Bracket on a Trek road bike (in this case my carbon Trek Domane 4.3, which I bought in 2013).

You will learn:

🔨 what tools you need to remove a set of seized BB90 bottom bracket bearings

🔩 how to use a bottom bracket press tool to fit new Trek BB90 bearings

🔧 how to avoid the plastic dust cover being pushed out when you reinstall the crankset

I filmed the video as part of a series where I stripped down and then renovated my 7-year-old Trek Domane 4.3 endurance road bike.

You can watch all of the videos in the series, in order by checking out this playlist .

How To Remove & Fit A BB90 Press Fit Bottom Bracket

This was actually the first and so far only time I’ve removed and fitted a bottom bracket (of any sort), so whilst the video will likely include things you shouldn’t do, at least you can see that it’s doable by someone with only a very modest amount of bike mechanic acumen.

Things You Will Need

Let’s start with the bike. Clearly this post/video is most relevant for bikes with press fit bottom brackets. In my case that’s a 2013 Trek Domane 4.3.

The BB90 bottom bracket standard, which is a proprietary Trek design, involves two sealed bearings being pressed directly into the bottom bracket shell within the (carbon) frame.

The bearings have actually done quite well, lasting 6.5 years of all year riding on the muddy roads of Derbyshire and a cleaning regime that I would describe as, er, sporadic.

However, during a deep clean that was meant to be ahead of replacing just the headset bearings, I realised that one of the bottom bracket bearings was also a bit ‘grindy’. A full bike refurb was on the cards. By the time I’d acquired all the bits to do this, the bearing had totally seized up.

New BB90 Bottom Bracket Bearings

A light Googlewacking suggests that no one’s a particular fan of the BB90 standard . As mentioned, the bearings are pressed directly into the carbon shell and if they don’t fit exactly then it can cause creaking.

Apparently, over time, the carbon shell into which the bearings fit can get worn, increasing the diameter of the cups (so many random words…). It seems the power I am throwing down is insufficient to cause such wear, so this wasn’t an issue in my case.

Despite this, whilst you can buy equivalently sized sealed cartridge bearings, I decided to play it safe and buy the official Trek BB90 kit (which is also suitable for BB95 bottom brackets).

The kit which comes with two sealed bearings and a plasticky inner ‘sheath’.

Step 1: Remove the Pedal Cranks

Erm, I don’t appear to have shown this in the video (or indeed in any of the other videos in the bike renovation series).

You can Google this to work it out for the groupset you use.

I’ve got Shimano 105, so it was a case of using a hex (or Allen) key to remove the pinch bolts on the non drive side crank. I used the specific Hollowtech plastic circular tool to remove the plastic ‘preload adjuster’ and the non-drive side crank could be slid off the spindle. Then, said spindle, which is attached to the chainrings, could be pulled out of the bottom bracket from the drive side.

Finally, the fox (amateur mechanic) could see its prey (the bearings…).

Step 2: Get The Old Bearings Out

For this I invested in the correct tool, a Park Tool BBT 90.3 press fit bottom bracket bearing, er, tool.

(Extra tip in brackets: for this whole job, use the right tools. Trying to hack either the removal or insertion of press fit bearings is a recipe for disaster, with a risk of doing irreparable – or at least expensive-to-fix – damage to your bike frame.)

You basically insert the pointy end of the BBT 90.3 through the middle of the bearing you are seeking to remove and then pull it as it pokes out from the other side of the bottom.

As you pull it through, the splayed splines of the tool compress together until there is a click as it passes fully through the bearing. The splines of tool are then sat against the inside rim of the bearing. Stop pulling.

Now you need to hammer (yes, hammer) the pointy end of the BBT 90.3 tool such that it pops out the bearing.

You can either do this carefully, and try to catch the escaping bearing and tool. Or you can whack it with gay abandon and delight in the clanging sound as the BBT 90.3 bounces along your garage floor.

Repeat for the bearing on the other side.

Step 3: Clean Out The Bottom Bracket Shell/Housing

The real step 3 is probably to remove the plastic inner ‘sheath’ (in my top ten favourite words), because a replacement comes in the Trek BB90 kit.

However, mine (my sheath) seemed in pretty good nick, so I just left it in there and gave it a good clean. Ahem.

The remainder of step 3 is to give the whole bottom bracket region, particularly where the new bearings will be seated a good clean. I used kitchen roll and lashings of GT80. Sue me.

Step 4: Apply Grease

A key step in any velomech scenario: a liberal application of grease.

As per the video, I applied grease around the inside of the bottom bracket cups, where the bearings were about to be seated.

My trusty Zinns Road Bike Maintenance book recommends also coating the outside of the new bearings. I don’t remember whether I did this.

Step 5: Press In The New Bearings

It’s time for another specialist tool.

The key thing (as I understand it) when inserting press fit bearings is to make sure they go in straight. This is all the more important for carbon frames when you ab-so-lutely, pos-i-tively do not want to crack your bottom bracket (or any bit of your frame).

So you’ll want a press tool.

This is a threaded metal rod with handles that spin on the thread. You put the metal rod through the middle of the bottom bracket and then slide the new bearings onto the rod (in the orientation in which you want them pushing into the BB housing).

You then slide specifically-sized metal discs (known as drifts) onto the threaded rod and then tighten the handles such that the drifts push inwards on the bearings, applying a consistent force such that the bearings are pushed straight into the bottom bracket.

And here we see me turning the handles and pushing the new bearings into place (without cracking the carbon frame…):

I bought a Wheels Manufacturing Universal Bottom Bracket Press tool. It wasn’t super cheap but it is good quality and comes with specially designed reversible drifts that can push in bearings with a range of different diameters.

As it happens, the BBT 90.3 bearing removal tool came with a pair of BB90-sized drifts, so I could have got away with buying a cheaper press. However, I plan to press many more things in my quest for bike mechanic mastery, so I was happy to invest in a more whizzbang tool.

And thus the new bearings were installed:

Step 6: Reinstall The Crankset

Again, exactly how you do this will depend on the groupset you are using.

I do have one twop twip to think about when you are reinstalling the spindle through the new bearings.

The Trek BB90 kit that I bought differed slightly from the original bearings that I removed in that the new ones have a plastic insert that both reduced the inner diameter of the bearing and (I assume) acts as a bit of a cover to protect it from the elements.

If you use the official Trek kit (or similar), when you push the spindle through the bottom bracket, make sure to press against the cover-cum-reducer on the opposite side to avoid it being pushed out. Once the cover has been popped out from the bearing, it is a devil to get back into place without cracking or creasing it.

Step 7: Bask In The Warm Glow Of Your Own Smugness

That’s pretty much it. Whilst it took a bit of time, and a reasonably significant investment in new tools, I successfully managed to install two new bearings in my BB90 bottom bracket.

Both the removal of the old bearings and the insertion of the new ones was pretty straightforward. I actually found that I enjoyed it. And, yes, there is a certain amount of smug satisfaction derived from tackling, and completing, a non-run-of-the-mill bike maintenance task.

Tools and Parts

Here are the tools and parts I used in completing this job:

• Trek BB90/95 Bottom Bracket kit
• Park Tool BBT 90.3 Bottom Bracket Bearing Tool
• Wheels Manufacturing Bottom Bracket Press

A full list of all the tools and components I used to fully overhaul my bike can be found on this page .

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Revolvr BB90/95 Thread-Together Bottom Bracket

• Replaces standard BB90/95 press in bearings commonly found on Trek bicycles with a solid, unified thread-together bottom bracket interface
• Thread-together bottom brackets provide a secure and stable shell interface for smoother operation and extended bearing life
• Low-friction dual seals protect the bearings from harmful contaminants
• Sealed premium bearings are serviceable
• Models available for both Shimano HTII 24mm and SRAM GXP 22/24mm spindles
• Requires a special tool for installation (J&B# 610756)

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CyclingCeramic Bearing Trek BB90 Shimano

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Description

CyclingCeramic bottom brackets are combined with low friction ceramic bearings and are more durable than standard bearings. The high quality of the bottom bracket housings allows them to achieve high performance. They have been designed to offer a lightweight package and thanks to the design of the seals, allow maximum protection.

The extreme hardness of the CyclingCeramic balls gives rise to a 4 to 5 times longer bearing life compared to the standard bearings, the special grease keeps your bearings sealed and protects them from external elements that can impede the proper functioning.

Silicon nitride balls are used to improve the performance of bearings. Ceramic balls are lighter, stiffer, smooth, hard, resistant to corrosion. They require less lubrication and have lower thermal expansion than their steel counterparts. The beads are polished for 45 days continuously to obtain rounder and smoother balls. This makes it possible to reduce the contact surface to the maximum.

• Compatible with 24 mm crankset (Shimano)  / internal frame 41 mm / width 90.5mm (pressfit)
• Durability 3 to 5 times longer than conventional bearings.
• Ceramic beads 58% lighter, 121% stronger and 68% harder than steel balls.
• Grade 3 ceramic beads (polished for more than 45 days) for almost non-existent friction.
• Case designed, machined and assembled in France in the CyclingCeramic workshop.
• Weight: 40g
• Complete box
• Installation instructions

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• Roulements CeramicSpeed réduisant la friction et améliorant la performance et la durabilité
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BB90 Bottom Brackets Explained

Bike Gear Reviews , Bike Maintenance , Other

Updated: August 14, 2023

Disclosure: I may receive referral fees from purchases made through links on BicycleVolt. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

Confused by bottom brackets? Wondering what the ‘BB’ in BB90 stands for? Let alone the ‘90’… Well, don’t despair. I’ll be explaining what this essential bike component does, why the BB90 is unusual, and what you can do about common issues that can develop with them. Let’s take a look.

What does a bottom bracket do?

The bottom bracket is one of the most important components in a bicycle, yet it’s often overlooked. When you’re shopping for a new road bike you might be concerned with overall bike weight or gear ratios. For a new mountain bike, it might be the travel of the suspension or the gnarliness of the tires. And, for an electric bike, it could be the torque and range that the battery and motor deliver.

But, bottom brackets? They’ll be tucked right at the bottom of the spec list and are unlikely to be a factor in most purchases.

It’s easy to forget about the bottom bracket, but it plays an integral role in your riding experience and, when it goes wrong, it can really ruin your day . So, let’s break it down: what exactly is a bottom bracket, and what does it do?

A bottom bracket ( often referred to as a ‘BB’ ) is a small part of the bike that holds the crank arms in place and attaches them to the frame. It’s located at the bottom of the bike between the two chainrings, and it consists of two bearings (called cups) that are pressed into the frame through the bottom bracket shell. The bearings allow the crank arms to spin freely, which is crucial for smooth friction-free pedaling. A BB is part of a bike’s groupset .

The bottom bracket also determines the size of your crankset. Different sizes are available and they’re measured in millimeters (mm).

For most riders, the size of the bottom bracket isn’t something they need to worry about—they simply purchase a bike with the correct size already installed. However, if you’re planning on upgrading your crankset, you’ll need to consider the size of your bottom bracket.

Aside from these considerations, there are a few other aspects to keep in mind when selecting a bottom bracket. One is bearing type: sealed bearings are preferred because they are low-maintenance and provide smoother rotation than unsealed bearings. The other is spindle diameter—the part of the bottom bracket that your pedal crank arms attach to. The two spindle diameters most commonly used today are 24mm (used on Shimano cranksets) and 30mm (used on SRAM cranksets).

Bottom brackets are also available in different configurations and materials. For example, some are threaded into the frame, while others press-fit into it. The most common materials for bottom brackets include aluminum alloy, steel, and titanium. Each material has its own unique qualities and benefits, so it’s important to choose one that fits your riding style and budget.

What is the BB90 bottom bracket?

Intriguingly, the BB90 isn’t really a bottom bracket at all. Let me explain.

A ‘typical’ bottom bracket has a cylindrical body that takes up the entire inner space of the bottom bracket shell. It might have a spindle fitted allowing crank arms to be attached, or have a slot through the center allowing for a spindle to be pushed through – an example of this type is shown below.

In contrast, the BB90 ‘bottom bracket’ is really only the two bearing cups that you’d normally find at each end of a standard bottom bracket.

This is a press-fit style of bottom bracket, where the bearing cups push into recessed fittings on each end of the bottom bracket shell on a bike. You can see what the BB90 setup looks like in the diagram below.

Let’s look at the dimensions now.

Remember we talked about the ‘90’ in BB90? Well, this refers to the length of the BB shell cylinder, which should either be 90.5mm (on road bikes) or 95mm (on mountain bikes ).

Each of the two bearing cups in the BB90 has an outer diameter of 37mm – corresponding to the inner diameter of the BB shell. They also have an inner diameter of 24mm to accept the 24mm spindle cranks that they are designed to be used with.

Which bike manufacturers use BB90 bottom brackets?

There is really only one bike manufacturer that uses BB90 and that’s Trek Bikes . BB90 is their standard for most of their road bikes and mountain bikes. These will have a BB shell that is designed to accept this style of bottom bracket.

BB90 Bottom Bracket problems

BB90 is a clever bit of design as it allows for a reduction in bike weight (through doing away with the bottom bracket ‘body’ that normally goes between the bearing cups).

But, it’s not without its problems. The chief problem that many riders complain about is a creaking noise as the cranks rotate. Whilst not necessarily a loud noise, it’s enough to set the teeth on edge of both the rider and the rest of the pack.

The most common attempt at resolving this issue is with liberal application of Loctite . Sadly, this is unlikely to give anything more than temporary relief.

A better solution is to replace the two BB90 bearing cups with what looks like a standard bottom bracket. This design gives a solid threaded-together casing that holds the bearing cups snugly in position, allowing them to spin smoothly and quietly.

BB90 bottom bracket replacement

If you’re comfortable with tricky bike repairs , then either replace the bearings, or (my preference) use a BB90-compatible thread-together bottom bracket (which is more akin to a ‘standard’ bottom bracket in that it goes all the way through from one side of the BB shell to the other holding the bearing cups in each end, and the 24mm spindle slots through the middle) – see above.

Replacement of bottom brackets is really a job best left to the pros at your local bike shop. They have the specialist tools to do it, and they’re replacing them day-in and day-out. That said, if you’re handy with complex bike repairs and don’t mind getting your hands dirty, then take a look at the details in the video below:

What’s the future of BB90 bottom brackets?

Whilst these can be a weight saver, due to the elimination of the overall bottom bracket ‘body’, the creaking problems that many riders experience with BB90 setups mean that these aren’t universally adored. This may be one of the reasons why there are signs that Trek may be looking to shift gradually away from the BB90 to a different standard: PF92/BB92.

Watch this space to see what happens.

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Most people come to the "about us" page to learn more about a company and people involved. The story of our humble beginnings can be found here .

What truly defines Kogel Bearings is our commitment to Guaranteed Performance, the end-to-end cycling experience.

Guaranteed performance means working hard to make your experience with Kogel Bearings the best possible, every step of the way.

We guarantee the performance of our company and products from your initial research throughout the lifecycle of your Kogel product.

Guaranteed Performance while shopping   - we have an entire team dedicated to ensuring your regret-free purchase. If at any point during the buying process you require assistance, we are available via chat, phone, or email to help ensure you're getting the right part for your bike.

Guaranteed Performance while shipping –   We keep all our products in stock and ship them the day we receive your order. Orders received after our shipping deadline will be shipped next business day. Overnight shipping is available at a reasonable price if your situation requires it.

Guaranteed Performance while installing   – We've built a library of installation manuals, bearing drifts for safe installation and offer expert advice whenever needed.

Whether you choose to install parts in your garage, or hire a professional bicycle mechanic, Kogel employees pride themselves in picking up the phone or returning your calls any time you need help.

Guaranteed Performance Warranty –  Our Guaranteed Performance Warranty is the best-in-industry. Use the heck out of your Kogel products, if they fail in the first year we will send you a new set. A bearing service will extend this warranty for the second year.

Guaranteed Performance while riding   – We design our products to get you across the finish line, not just once, but many times. Let’s face it: most of us do not travel with a personal mechanic. What is the point of fragile race-day-only parts if you ride your bike for training, racing and in all kinds of weather? Kogel products are designed to perform every single day.

Kogel's end-to-end Guaranteed Performance experience is guaranteed to serve your cycling activities today and for years to come. From the minute you start exploring our products and throughout the service life of your parts.

Sincerely, Ard Kessels Owner/Founder

Description

This bearing set is ready to plug a Shimano crank in a Trek BB90 road frame.

BB90 was used on Trek's carbon road frames pre 2021. For current carbon road and gravel frames, look at T47 Internal. For aluminum frames and mountain bikes, have a look at the BB86 - BB92 collection.

Choose road bearings for road bikes, cross bearings for cyclocross or if you frequently ride your road bike on wet roads.

"First ride yesterday and today and honestly i felt the difference.Given my non pro built the Kogel ceramic BB made life easier on the road.Smoother pedal strokes.It is indeed watts saving! Adding the Kogel OSPW to my bike was another factor too.I felt a smoother ride and shifting gears was so quiet.Highly recommended."

"Man i love the QUALITY of the Kogel ceramic bottom bracket, now the cranks roll so smooth ! I can't understand how a top of the line bike comes with a cheap $30 bottom bracket "

"If a BB could be described as luxurious this is it. I’ve installed a lot of BBs, and this was a pleasure. So so smooth."

"When I first built my new super-bike with the sole intent on going as fast as possible, I decided to save a few bucks by not spec-ing a ceramic BB despite running one successfully on its predecessor for several years. That was a mistake. I could clearly feel how "sticky" the stock bb was whenever I removed the chain for cleaning and waxing. Having just recently installed a new Kogel BB, there are now truly, "no excuses.""

"These bottom brackets don’t quit! I’ve run this PF30 with CX seals on two generations of cyclocross race bikes - two matching bikes per year across four years. Demanding use, lots of washing, AND riding over winter in Eastern Canada, which involves snow, ice, and salt. Every BB held up without issue; set and forget. Amazing!"

Our bearings are more symmetrical and built to stricter tolerances than stock steel bearings. They won't deform or get pitted and offer more efficient power transfer.

Placing the bearings as close to the crank arms as possible for increased stiffness and durability

Choose road bearings for road bikes, cross bearings for mountain bikes and cyclocross or if you frequently ride your road bike on wet roads.

Experience the ceramic difference

Every pedal stroke counts whether you're aiming for a podium on the world stage or a PR on a local segment. Why settle for anything less than the best? Kogel Ceramic Bottom Brackets redefine your riding experience by offering unmatched efficiency and reliability. Engineered to perfection, our bottom brackets feature ceramic bearings that are more symmetrical and held to stricter tolerances than standard steel bearings. This precision leads to reduced friction, better power transfer, and a smoother ride that lasts.

CHOOSE YOUR SEAL TYPE

Kogel Bearings offers precision-engineered ceramic bottom brackets designed to suit any riding condition, each featuring specifically tailored seal options to maximize performance and durability. Choose the perfect seal type for your riding environment:

Ideal for road cyclists who demand the utmost in efficiency and minimal resistance, Kogel's Road Seals are engineered to offer the lowest friction. These seals reduce drag to a minimum, ensuring every ounce of energy is translated directly to forward motion. Perfect for those who count every watt and seek performance without compromise.

Cross Seals

Built for the rigors of MTB, gravel and cyclocross racing and any off-road adventures, the Cross Seals provide enhanced protection against dirt, water, and mud. These seals are robust and designed to withstand harsh conditions without sacrificing performance. If your rides often take you off the beaten path, or if you revel in the challenge of adverse weather, these seals ensure long-lasting performance and reliability.

PROVEN WHEN EVERY SECOND COUNTS

Built by hand in texas

Kogel's industry-leading durability comes from our meticulous selection and assembly processes, ensuring that every component performs at its peak long into its lifecycle. Whether you're climbing steep hills or sprinting on flat terrains, our bottom brackets are designed to withstand the rigors of any ride without deforming or losing efficiency.

Frequently asked questions

Guaranteed Performance  means working hard to make your experience with Kogel Bearings the best possible, every step of the way.

Kogel Bearings takes pride in delivering a best-in-industry warranty. Our 2-year warranty means you can feel confident and secure about your next two seasons of riding.

If a product fails in the first year, we will replace it. The second year requires an annual bearing service. A manual for that service can be found  here .

Bottom brackets fail for many reasons. The most common being contamination and neglect. Remove the crank set, spin the bearings to check if the bearings feel rough. If they do, a bearing service should bring them back to life. If the service does not help and the bearings still feel gritty, it is time to replace them.

Proper care is key to longevity. We recommend annual service to stay within the Guaranteed Performance Warranty, or sooner if your bearings feel rough. The current recorded mileage record is set at 28.000 miles on a single bottom bracket. What. Does your BB odometer tell you?

While the procedure is not too complicated, the job is almost impossible to do without very specific and potentially costly tools. A wood block and hammer are not a bottom bracket press, neither is a threaded rod from the hardware store and a stack of washers. ( here is a link to the procedure )

If you regularly replace bottom brackets on multiple bikes, it might be worth investing in the tools. If you only perform this procedure occasionally, it’s probably better to carry $50 and a six pack to your local bike shop and let the professionals take care of it.

While we do not require to use our Aqua Proof Installation Paste, we call it Shut Up Grease for a reason. Pick up a jar or a single use syringe  here . A simple remove and reinstall with all contact areas greased (most crucial are the BB shell, BB cup and crank spindle)

If that did not fix the problem, here are links to two blog posts on 1)  fixing bottom bracket creaks and  2)  finding and fixing creaks that sound like a bottom bracket, but actually come from somewhere else.

The cross seals are built for best protection. The difference in friction between the road and cross seals are around 0.5W on a bottom bracket. On the upside, bearings with cross seals are close to waterproof. If your road rides include gravel roads or if you regularly ride on wet roads, the cross seals will buy you some peace of mind.

The hourly rate varies from one shop to the next, mostly based on their expenses for real estate and the cost of finding good mechanics in the area. For this reason it is hard to put an exact dollar amount on the procedure. It would be reasonable to expect an installation to take around 30 minutes, so half of your local shop’s hourly rate is a good benchmark.

Just like your chain and cables, bearings need to be regularly serviced and work MUCH better when properly lubricated.

Inspect your bearings at least every few months (always after extreme wet muddy rides) and service your bearings at least once a year. 

Easiest way to inspect a bearing is by removing the chain from the crank and spinning it using your fingers. The bearing will fall somewhere between these three conditions:

• Clean  - feels like it’s spinning effortlessly in fresh grease
• Dirty  - feels like it’s spinning with some grit in the grease
• Dry  - feels like it’s spinning effortlessly, but it’s making more noise than usual

With this simple test, you can get a good sense of your bearings being contaminated, damaged or good for another ride.

If they feel gritty, you'll want to service them. Here is a  link  to the best practice in pulley service. And at a minimum, they’ll need to be serviced a year from their install date or last service.

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You have a Shimano crankset. What bottom bracket standard is your bike?

Determine which of our Shimano road bottom brackets is the most compatible with your bike by using this selection guide. BBInfinite’s modules are compatible with all Shimano HollowTech cranksets on the market. Engineered with a one-piece design, these BBs fix bicycle creaking while providing cyclists with consistent shifting and drivetrain performance. Additionally, these road bike bottom brackets feature dual polymer bearing shields to prevent dirt and debris from getting into the precision bearings. Our Shimano bottom brackets are fully compatible with crank-based power meters.

Now that you have selected a Shimano road crank set for your bike, or you intend to install on your bike, you may select the appropriate road bottom bracket standard of your bike to jump directly to the Shimano bottom bracket you desire:

For ALL Shimano HollowTech II road crank sets, double or triple, standard or compact, select the compatible frame bottom bracket standard button above.

The possible Shimano road bottom bracket standards are:

BBRight (79mm)

BB86 (86.5mm)

T47 Internal

T47 External (68mm)

BSA English Threaded (68mm) 1.37 x 24TPI

Italian Threaded (70mm) 36mm x 24TPI

PressFit30 (68mm)

PressFit30A (73mm)

BB30 (68mm)

BB30A (73mm)

BB386EVO (86.5mm)

Specialized OSBB (61mm)

Note: If you have any questions, or need help identifying your bottom bracket standard, please call our Customer Service line: 866.865.3335.

Or email us: [email protected]

Now, please select the appropriate Shimano bottom bracket above. Thank you.

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• Bottom Brackets

Trek BB90/95

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The BB90/95 standard is used by Trek on many frames. Two sealed bearings (37mm OD) are pressed directly in to the frame's bottom bracket shell. A step is molded in to the frame for the bearings to seat against. Trek BB90/95 frames do not use bearing retainer clips. Compatible with 24mm or 24/22mm spindle cranks only.

Wheels Mfg does not make a cup & bearing system for BB90/95 frames. Your only option is to replace your existing bearings when necessary.

SHIM-SPACER-PK

SRAM-SPACER-PK

SB-24X37AC-1

SB-24X37CH-1

SBC0-24X37-1

SB-22X37X8-1

SB-22X37X8AC-1

SBC0-22X37X8-1

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Trek BB90 – Sram GXP – (24x22mm)

$ 200,40

Enhance the performance of your crankset system with the Trek BB90 with SRAM GXP Bearings. Specifically designed for Trek BB90 with SRAM GXP systems, these high-quality bearings are engineered to improve efficiency and durability, providing you with a smoother and more powerful cycling experience.

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• Precise Compatibility: The  Trek BB90 with SRAM GXP Bearings are meticulously designed to perfectly fit  Trek BB90 with SRAM GXP crankset systems, ensuring accurate fitting and optimal performance.
• Improved Efficiency: High-quality bearings reduce friction and enhance the efficiency of your crankset, enabling you to transfer power to the pedals more effectively and maximize your cycling performance.
• Durability for the Long Ride: Built to withstand the demands of intensive cycling, these bearings use high-quality materials and robust construction to deliver exceptional durability over long distances.
• Enhanced Comfort: By minimizing vibrations and friction, the  Trek BB90 with SRAM GXP Bearings offer a smoother and more comfortable pedaling sensation, allowing you to enjoy your rides with reduced fatigue.
• Easy Installation: Designed for straightforward and efficient installation, these bearings provide a convenient upgrade for your  Trek BB90 with SRAM GXP crankset system.
• Elevate Your Pedaling: Optimize your cycling performance with the  Trek BB90 with SRAM GXP Bearings. Experience improved power transmission, smoother riding, and increased durability to push your limits on both roads and trails.

Upgrade your Trek BB90 with SRAM GXP crankset system with CyclingCeramic Bearings and unlock a new dimension of cycling performance.

• Ceramic balls: Grade 3
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• Compatibility:  Trek BB90 with SRAM GXP
• Weight : 42 grams
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1 review for Trek BB90 – Sram GXP – (24x22mm)

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Quick service. The only BB90 -GXP BB I could find.

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How snug are BB90 bearings supposed to be?

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I was reinstalling my crankset and my NDS bearing just fell out. I'm sure the edge of the crank spindle pushed it out, but shouldn't it be tighter than that? I tapped it back in and it seems snug now, but isn't it odd to have fallen out so easily? If it matters... When I got my Stages power meter installed (would have done it myself but a bolt stripped) the mechanic said my "bottom bracket was loose" so they "glued it back together".  

That does sound loose, but if your BB has no play and makes no clicking/creaking noise I think you are ok. Gluing sounds a little drastic to me. If it works it will keep your bearings from moving and making noise. But what happens if you ever need to change them out? FWIW, the BB on my Domane has developed a noise, and I'm going to try a fix I found here: http://www.vcrcbike.com/v/vspfiles/webfiles/BBinstall.pdf The idea is to put a thin smear of rim cement inside the frame, then let it dry for 12 hours before installing the bearings. The purpose of the cement is to tighten the fit around the bearings, not to glue them in. Shall see if it works that way in practice.  

Both of you...seriously. There are bearings available from Trek. They're called 'V2'. They're .1mm larger diameter than standard. Glue is not the solution. If the shell ever gets loose w/ V2 bearings it needs to be sent back to Trek and they can fix it.  

I'd go with Loctite 641, with the special "activator" primer. The VCRC document explains this. They say to use 609 or 638 but 638 is high strength while 641 is medium strength designed for parts that need to be taken apart. When Loctite calls something high strength you usually need to heat the parts to destroy the bond.  

Lack of trek frame knowledge leads to a fascinating array of crappy advice. Listen to cx.....  

thisisthebeave said: the mechanic said my "bottom bracket was loose" so they "glued it back together". Click to expand...

bobf said: The idea is to put a thin smear of rim cement inside the frame, then let it dry for 12 hours before installing the bearings. The purpose of the cement is to tighten the fit around the bearings, not to glue them in. Shall see if it works that way in practice. Click to expand...

ericm979 said: I'd go with Loctite 641, with the special "activator" primer. The VCRC document explains this. They say to use 609 or 638 but 638 is high strength while 641 is medium strength designed for parts that need to be taken apart. When Loctite calls something high strength you usually need to heat the parts to destroy the bond. Click to expand...

Thinking back on it, I'm sure the edge of the crank caught the edge of the bearing and pushed it out when I was reinstalling the crank. Should it take a lot of force to get the bearing out? Just trying to figure out if I need the V2 bearings or not. I picked them up but haven't installed yet. The paper that came with them makes it sound scary bad to use them if you don't NEED them.  

Or use bubble gum, preferably chewed first, if you don't want to wait.  

Can you get the V2 bearings online or should my LBS have them in stock?  

bobf said: That does sound loose, but if your BB has no play and makes no clicking/creaking noise I think you are ok. Gluing sounds a little drastic to me. If it works it will keep your bearings from moving and making noise. But what happens if you ever need to change them out? FWIW, the BB on my Domane has developed a noise, and I'm going to try a fix I found here: http://www.vcrcbike.com/v/vspfiles/webfiles/BBinstall.pdf The idea is to put a thin smear of rim cement inside the frame, then let it dry for 12 hours before installing the bearings. The purpose of the cement is to tighten the fit around the bearings, not to glue them in. Shall see if it works that way in practice. Click to expand...

thisisthebeave said: Can you get the V2 bearings online or should my LBS have them in stock? Click to expand...

Do I definitely need the V2 bearings? I'm sure it was the edge of my crank that knocked it out? I'm not sure how much force it should take to knock the bearings out.  

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