parking brake lever travel

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• Parking brake lever has little reserve travel (3.1.6b)

Author Topic: Parking brake lever has little reserve travel (3.1.6b)  (Read 17124 times)

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Re: Parking brake lever has little reserve travel (3.1.6b)

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If you are sure that it won't be slightly on for the first two clicks you could tension it if you wished.  The adjustment is under the centre console behind the handbrake, mind you new (thicker) rear pads would also reduce the travel. -- TG

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Parking Brake Lever Travel Adjustment (EASY)

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Thanks! just did it. Note that a ratcheting wrench isn't helpful since the nut tends to "return" as Doug mentioned.  

Any way to secure the bolt it is on?  

Nice write up. I haven`t paid attention to mine so I will check i t out in the morning.  

Wow. The inside of your truck is really really clean. Almost too clean... :biggrin:  

Nooo ... I was compelled to vacuum after those pics were taken cuz of all the dirt you see there! lol  

I wonder why the manufactures don't "double nut" to lock it in place, when the one nut is known to get loose with usage? This is a common problem among many different makes.  

ummmmm..... yes jk, I don't know what you are talking about. From what I saw the tension in the cables was pretty low. So if there was any stretch from the tension, I would assume that it is pretty much negligible. More so that the relatively constant cycling of lifting and lowering the brake lever caused the nut to spin over time.  

WESBC said: ummmmm..... yes jk, I don't know what you are talking about. From what I saw the tension in the cables was pretty low. So if there was any stretch from the tension, I would assume that it is pretty much negligible. More so that the relatively constant cycling of lifting and lowering the brake lever caused the nut to spin over time. Click to expand...

Scratch that, I just realized that when I was tightening the nut, the parking brake was down. This is probably why I saw that there was little, if any, tension the the cable. Thinking about it now, there probably is enough tension to cause the cable to stretch.  

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camry parking brake adjustment

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hello i just changed all the rotors and pads on my 07 camry and also relubed all the sliders and now my parking brake dose not work as well i live on a hill so i need it where is the best place to adjust it i saw the parking brake shoes they still had about 50-60% of life left and it worked grate bfor i also tried useing it 3 or 4 times and applying it and backing up thinking it may be like full size drum brakes with auto adjusters nothing seamed to improve it i didnt mess with anything with the parking brake when i did the rotors and pads so i think an adjustment would do fine im just not sure where it is to adjust it the parking brake is the one in the kick panel on the floor any help? thanks  

Usually you just need to readjust the parking brake shoes, this is done through a hole in the front of the rotor so the rear wheels need to be off. But just in case you cable has stretched here is the whole procedure. DO NOT adjust the cable unless adjusting the shoes will not correct the problem. Always make sure the shoe adjustment is correct before messing with the cable. First ADJUST PARKING BRAKE SHOE CLEARANCE (a) Temporarily install the hub nuts. (b) Remove the hole plug, and turn the adjuster and expand the shoes until the disc locks. (c) Contract the shoe adjuster until the disc can rotate smoothly. Standard : Return 8 notches (d) Check shoe is no brake drag. (e) Install the hole plug.you have to adjust the shoes at the drum. (f) Check for proper Travel at pedal/lever. ADJUST PARKING BRAKE PEDAL TRAVEL(PEDAL TYPE PARKING BRAKE) (a) Depress the parking brake pedal 3 notches to make a room for the procedure, and loosen the lock nut on parking brake cable. (b) Return the parking brake pedal to the original position. (c) Turn the adjusting nut on parking brake cable until the parking brake pedal travel is correct. (d) Depress the parking brake pedal 3 notches to make a room for the procedure, and tighten the lock nut on parking brake cable. Torque: 5.4 NVm (55 kgfVcm, 48 in.Vlbf) (e) Return the parking brake pedal to the original position. (f) Check whether parking brake drags or not. (g) When operating the parking brake pedal, check that the parking brake pedal indicator light lights up. ADJUST PARKING BRAKE LEVER TRAVEL(LEVER TYPE PARKING BRAKE) (a) Remove the console panel upper. (b) Remove the air duct rear No. 1. (c) Loosen the lock nut on parking brake cable and turn the adjusting nut until the lever travel is correct. (d) Tighten the lock nut. Torque: 5.0 NVm (51 kgfVcm, 44 in.Vlbf) (e) Install the air duct rear No.1. (f) Install the console panel upper. I hope this helps.  

Thank you so much for help, i have the same problem with my 09 camry. I adjusted the parking break shoe 3 time, but the parking break pedal still so loose and its fell like parking break not even grab. I will try to adjust the cable tomorrow, hope its will fix the problem. Again thank you so much, keep up the good work guys. We counting on yall.  

very detailed and helpfull post thank you  

I replaced the parking brake shoes on an Avalon...basically the same. I made a short video. I hope it helps someone! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_mg_C14ySI  

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Parking Brake Shoe Adjustment - Views Please!

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I raised the issue of adjusting the parking brake shoes on the star nut adjusters in the drums and would like opinions on whether backing off 10 clicks after tightening seems excessive. Would anybody who has done this job, particularly somebody who has done it frequently,advise if they actually need backing off that far!! :shrug:  

11. ADJUST PARKING BRAKE SHOE CLEARANCE (a) Temporarily install the hub nuts. (b) Remove the shoe adjusting hole plug, and then turn the adjuster to expand the shoe adjuster until the disc locks. (c) Turn and contact the shoe adjuster until the disc can rotate smoothly. Standard return notch: 8 notches ​ (d) Check that the shoe has no brake drag. Click to expand...

Dr. Dyno said: I adjust parking brakes so they engage fully then back off just until there's no drag. I can't imagine that would take anywhere near 10 clicks [of the star wheel]. They should start engaging within 2-3 or maybe 4 clicks of a hand lever or foot pedal. Click to expand...

1. CHECK PARKING BRAKE LEVER TRAVEL (a) Pull the lever upward with a force of approximately 200 N (20 kgf, 44 lbf) and count the number of clicks. OK: 7 to 9 clicks (without rear brake dragging) Click to expand...

Yeah, a little confusing here. Especially because we're talking two different clicks. I'm thinking the 10 clicks the OP refers to are at the shoe adjusters. The 2-3 or 4 are at the hand brake lever. To be a little more clear on my procedure: 1. Loosen the cable at the hand lever so there's plenty of slack. 2. With the hand lever fully released tighten the star wheel shoe adjusters until the shoes just start to drag as the tire is rotated. 3. Pull the hand lever on fully and release to center the shoes. 4. Repeat step 2. 5. Repeat step 3. 6. Back off the star wheels just until no drag is felt. 7. Tighten the hand lever cable until tire drag is felt within 2-3 clicks. So my and the OP's only contention is that step 6 would take 10 clicks of the star wheel. Actually since backing off the star wheels is usually a pain I often do the adjustment/recenter carefully enough to leave just the slightest drag figuring the shoes will wear to no drag quickly and no backing off of the star wheels is needed. Hope that clarifies and covers it! On to other things!  

Thanks Mr Dyno. I'm of the same view regarding the star nut adjusters at the wheels. It concerned me to see 8+ clicks referred to in literature. Back off sufficiently so there's no drag on the drum from the shoes which should take only three or four clicks on the stars. Nothing to do with the hand brake lever which I have no intention of touching and should be no need anyway. This is no different to my MG saloon which has exactly the same setup. The RAV is a 2.4 Aussy import(we don't get this model in the UK - largest petrol is 2.0L)_.  

The instructions are pinned on the UK forum; Maintenance/improvement Tips - 4.3 - Rav 4 Club - Toyota Owners Club - Toyota Forum You can back off the adjuster until you hear the shoes just rub but bear in mind they sometimes have a high spot. I usually run up 2 wheel nuts to keep the disc firm then rock the disc back and forth in the backlash of the transmission. You need to turn the hub with a lever on the installed nuts and repeat the process all the way around. When you are satisfied you can refit the wheels but leave one jacked up while you adjust the cable inside. Again you can get away with a lot less than 8-10 clicks but do not risk having the shoes binding. They are tiny and will soon be destroyed. Keep checking with the raised wheel and leave some reserve.  

Good one again anchorman. I'm going to go through a wheel end adjustment avoiding a brake lever cable adjustment if possible. As the book says 7-9 clicks on the cabin lever, and assuming the factory adjusted the wheels end to their own recommended 8 clicks on the star nuts, then if I just adjust the star nuts to the minimum number of shoe clearance clicks(without binding), and this brings the cabin lever clicks down to say 4-6, then I'll be happy. It is notable that on the last MOT I was a bit concerned about the travel on the cabin lever but it still topped at 8 clicks although the lever seems quite high for my liking in this position. The tester must have known the limits as it didn't get a mention, even as an advisory. Strange thing is the same amount of pull on my MG ZT would have been a fail and its an identical adjustment system.  

I seem to remember there is something in Construction and Use Regs about the handbrake clicks as a percentage of the maximum. Anything that exceeds results in "no reserve".  

exceeds.....................................??  

Can anyone who has pulled of the rear rotor/drum advise if the star-wheel has a self adjusting lever like regular rear drum brakes? I couldn't see one in this PDF , but if they did have the lever, then the adjustment could be made automatically by applying the parking brake while in reverse, which I don't think many people do.  

Hey Rickl I just had my rear drums off last night cleaning and lubing my caliper slides and adjusting the emergency brake shoes. There was no "self" adjuster at the star wheel on my 08 limited. There is a little hole in the rotor (with a rubber grommet in it) so you can spin the star wheel with the rotor still on if you want to. I chose to take the rotor off , clean up the inside lip of rust and slide the rotor back on after adjusting the shoes each time, to feel for slight drag. I still don't like the fact that I have to pull the E brake handle up about 5 clicks to make the shoes grab good. Maybe it's normal..... Kevin  

kevcules said: I just had my rear drums off last night cleaning and lubing my caliper slides and adjusting the emergency brake shoes. There was no "self" adjuster at the star wheel on my 08 limited. Click to expand...

kevcules said: There is a little hole in the rotor (with a rubber grommet in it) so you can spin the star wheel with the rotor still on if you want to. I chose to take the rotor off , clean up the inside lip of rust and slide the rotor back on after adjusting the shoes each time, to feel for slight drag. I still don't like the fact that I have to pull the E brake handle up about 5 clicks to make the shoes grab good Click to expand...

My experience with a 2011 disk brakes all around, and for the rear is to remove and clean the rear by removing the disk/drum, clean and lubricate the adjuster. Remove and clean and lubricate the calipers and lube the pads sliders rear and examine the piston and clean. Examine all rubbers. When replacing the rear set up adjust the star wheel now cleaned and anti seized compound to ease the disk/drum on, then adjust the star wheel. Test the drum/disk for braking and with the hand e brake set to 5-6 clicks, when set and all done, test drive the car and all wheels stopped pull the e brake handle and retest for the correct clicks, count them. With the e brake properly adjusted, the brakes hold the car. NEVER SET THE HAND BRAKES WITH THE CAR MOVING. When adjusted and used correctly you should never wear out the friction material with the e brake system, but the cables may stretch and that adjustment is done inside the car. With the correct pull up force and the correct clicks and no car movement there would be no excess stresses, no abnormal wear, but it is critical that the car has no movement when the e brake is put into service. If you have doubts about this moving, just take the rear wheels and brakes apart to see how they work.  

No Denis What I mean is that if the whole number of clicks is 10 with nothing connected (example only) then you might be allowed 60% by design. Therefor if the handle comes up to 7 clicks with a certain pull load it would be considered that there is insufficient reserve. If it came up to 5 then that would meet the spec - it must not pass 6.  

I just received my rear brake pads and will be adjusting the parking brake while I do the job. Having a disk/drum set up on most of my vehicles, I am familiar with the process. I am not replacing my rotors as they have minimal wear and no warpage (excessive material build up), but I typically remove them and clean them up which also allows me to inspect the ebrake components. I have noticed that the lever comes up higher than it use to. This is the first time that I have adjusted the e-brake on this car. Typically on the first adjustment, one would also adjust the cable tension adjustment at the hand lever. As this is an auto the parking brake is rarely used (and primally drive by my wife who never uses the e-brake) I assume that the change in lever position is primarily a result of cable stretch. I do use the e-brake when I drive the car when setting up a drift; ha ha just kidding. I do use the e-brake when parking on a hill so that I do not put as much pressure on the parking gear. Does anyone have input on cable tension adjustment. I assume I need to pop up some interior panels. Crawl under the car to see if I can find the ebrake cable and check for slack. Then turn an adjustment nut till all the slack is removed from the system.  

Here's how I adjusted my cables w/o taking lots of stuff apart. Posts 71-73.  

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Handbrake Adjustment!

By uncoiledwonder, May 31, 2008 in Roadster & MR-S

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Uncoiledwonder.

pretty simple guys! (he hopes)

where is the handbrake adjustment, i looked around the handbrake removing all the plastic! then round the rear wheels! dont know if just missed it! or is it under the car somewhere???

oh update on my car changed discs, pads, oil, filter, spark plugs and reset ECU still engine light comes on though the car runs smoother! part from if i hold revs at 5,000 for couple of secs eggy smell fills car! if the engine is behind how is it filling the cabin??

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Pull the parking brake lever all the way up, and count the number of clicks. Parking brake lever travel at 196 N (20 kgf, 44.1 lbf): 5 - 8 clicks. If incorrect, adjust the parking brake.

Adjusting the parking brake (see illustrations below):

a. Remove the console.

b. Loosen the lock nut and loosen the adjusting nut until the left and right parking brake cranks touch the stopper pin.

c. Start the engine and depress the brake pedal with the thread force at about 490 N (50 kgf, 110 lbf) for 10 times.

d. Tighten the adjusting nut until the cable has no looseness.

e. Pull the parking brake lever up strongly once.

f. Release the parking brake lever.

g. Turn the adjusting nut until the lever travel is correct.

h. Tighten the lock nut. Torque: 5.4 N·m (55 kgf·cm, 48 in.·lbf)

i. Release the parking brake lever and check the brake drag of the rear brake by turning the rear wheel.

j. Check that the left and right brake cranks touch the stopper pin under the condition in which the parking brake lever is released.

k. Check that the brake indicator light comes on when operating the parking brake lever.

l. Reinstall the console.

regarding your engine,

have you gutted the "pre-cats" or done a header swap.In the 00-02 models the pre-cat syndrome is more profound.this means you have 2 catyllic contervtors in your engine bay.

1 in the main downpipe.the second is located in the headers.which has known to break down its small or larger quantities and making there way into your engine.which at the day,if your engine get's damaged by this stuff....well,it's time to buy a new engine or go for a 2zz swap.[Lotus engine]Toyota wanted to create a-ULEV [ultra low emission's vehicle]

if you remove the O2 sensors and look inside you'll see a honeycomb matrix,if this is cracked or damaged it's on the way out

downpipe side

aftermarket de-catted

very little has been recorded in 03-05 models.from what I've heard less than a handful .

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Chevy P30 Parking Brake Adjustment (You Have to Try It!)

One heavy-duty chassis I know extensively from getting quite familiar underneath while working on them is the Chevy P30. Equipped with a strong V8 engine, the P30 makes an excellent platform for large campers and coaches. However, some owners report issues with the parking brake system. That’s because the P30 utilizes an internal star wheel manual adjuster deep within each brake drum to alter tension. 

In this article, I’ll use my experience to explain adjusting P30 parking brakes in depth.

How to Determine When You Need Parking Brake Adjustment?

Before hitting the road for any lengthy trip towing my trailer, I always inspect the P30’s brake components. Warning signs like the parking brake lever requiring excessive travel or force to engage alert me that adjustment is needed to restore proper performance. Hearing squealing brakes or detecting a burning odor also informs me it is adjustment time.

With that being said, let’s now dive into how I go through the adjustment process of the Chevy P30 parking brake system.

Step 1: Gather The Required Adjustment Supplies

Prior to jacking up the P30 for brake access, I take necessary safety precautions like chocking the wheels and preparing my workspace. I ensure I have my toolbox stocked with common hand tools, brake cleaning spray, lubricant, gloves, and eyewear. Sturdy jack stands rated for the vehicle’s substantial size are essential, along with wheel wedges for extra security while underneath.

Step 2: Access the Chevy P30 Brake Components

The P30 utilizes an internal star wheel manual adjuster deep within each brake drum to alter tension. Getting to them starts with removing the rear wheels using my impact wrench. I then hose down the backing plates and surrounding areas thoroughly with brake parts cleaner to prevent contamination before returning the wheels for drum access later.

Step 3: Carefully Rotate the P30 Brake Drums

With the wheels reinstalled hand tight, I carefully rotate each brake drum to reveal the nearly hidden star wheel adjustment portal located at roughly the 4 o’clock position internally. I take care not to disturb the delicate inner brake components now exposed through the small port. With the opening aligned, I insert my adjustment tool.

Step 4: Meticulously Turn the Star Wheel Adjusters

Before touching the adjusters, I ensure the vehicle is off and the key is in the “accessory” position to unlock the steering. From there, with light outward pressure on the tool to match the star wheel’s tension, I begin meticulously rotating it while frequently checking the parking brake lever responsiveness. I turn the adjuster wheel incrementally clockwise until noting the precise point at which the parking brake lever halts the drum rotation completely when pulled.

Step 5: Test and Readjust the Setting

When properly adjusted to factory specifications, the parking brake lever will securely hold the drum from spinning. At this point, the adjustment is likely near complete, but I still may tweak it ever so slightly while repeatedly testing the brake lever feel and lock capabilities. If over-tightened, the brake components risk damage, so very small final star wheel increments are advisable.

Step 6: Repeat the Procedure on Both Sides

I work carefully but efficiently to ensure I don’t disturb the finely tuned adjustment I’ve achieved thus far. After dialing that brake in, I move around and repeat this entire process on the passenger rear drum brake as well for consistent performance.

Step 7: Complete the Adjustment and Testing Brake Operation

With the adjustment procedure fully carried out on both P30 rear brake systems, I reinstall the wheels, double-check all fasteners, and lower my Chevy down. Before considering the project complete, however, actual brake testing to confirm smooth engagement and disengagement is essential. I find an isolated area like an empty parking lot to safely conduct these last quality control stops.

While most rear brake adjustments I tackle succeed without issues, more significant problems occasionally arise requiring a visit to my trusted professional RV mechanic’s shop instead. But overall this method has never let me down gaining virtually brand new parking brake function on multiple P30 motorhomes over the years.

How frequently should P30 parking brakes be inspected and adjusted?

I recommend checking the system over thoroughly at least yearly. Adjust sooner if braking problems occur.

Will adjusting the parking brakes impact other brake components?

When restored properly to factory specs, it should only enhance P30 stopping power.

What tools do I need for DIY adjustment?

Common hand tools, wheel chocks, jack stands, brake cleaner, lubricant, and safety gear at a minimum.

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Parking Brake Lever Travel Adjustment (EASY)

frog13 said: Ok,semi old post,but I have a few noob questions.I have a 2007 FJ AT 4x4. A.) The vehicle has to be in neutral with the e-brake disengaged,correct?. B.) I do not have a lift,so ,can I jack up one side at a time and do this adjustment?. The dealership wants $130ish bucks to do this adjustment....no kidding!. Also...off topic question: When you change the rear differential fluid,is there an additive you have to add also?....I've read that there is.....the dealership says differently. What is the additive called?. TIA. If someone wishes to PM me instead of adding to this post.....no problem!. Click to expand...

Thank you for the responses/info!.  

brianh said: I'll second toyotatech1's method. Just did it a couple weeks ago. 1. Take the rear wheels off, 2. Find the hole in the axle hub and rotate the axle until the hole is on the bottom. 3. Make sure the hole is lined up with the star wheel 4. Use a screwdriver to turn the star wheel up until it stops moving (on both sides, up expands the shoes) 5. Make sure the axle/rotor won't turn just to verify you went the right direction 6. Turn the star wheel down 4 clicks (mine didn't really click. I just used 4 down strokes with the screwdriver) 7. Repeat on the other side 8. Verify 7-8 clicks on the parking brake handle. If you have more or less you can adjust the shoes 1 click at a time (on both sides) until you get the handle where you want it. 4 clicks on the star wheels was 8 clicks on the parking brake handle for me though. Click to expand...

Awesome, thanks.  

The hole you are looking thru on the rear rotor for that star thing needs to be @ about the 6:30 position. Your target piece is only about a centimeter tall. I wish I saw the old thread. I had to figure out mine on the fly when I replaced my e-brake pads and various parts.  

sweptwingnut

Excellent info on both the handle and the pads. Just what I was looking for. Thanks!  

Bonomonster

I have to do this  

MIDSTATESOFFROAD

So, I have a question...why do I have to readjust my shoes at the wheels every couple of months? I just did a brake job last week and checked the shoes and they have very little if no wear at all. (I could still see some of the stamped writing on the surface) I've adjusted the shoes a couple of times now with the above procedure, and after a while it gets so bad that I can pull the handle all the way up and the truck will still roll on a very slight incline. Will the adjustment "star" wheel move back in after a while?  

technically, all drum brake set up should have a self adjustment lever that connects to a cable and to one of the rear shoes. the idea is when you reversing and engage the brakes, the movement in the shoes will pull on the lever which then moves the star adjuster. I dont know how the FJ is set up or even if it has the self adjusting lever. if yours become loose, I would imagine maybe the star gear is backing out not being held by the adjuster. however, the self adjusting function only adjust it when it needs to so maybe your cable is also loose. HowStuffWorks "How Drum Brakes Work"  

There is not a self adjustment lever in Toyota handbrakes, if discs with drum handbrake.  

FinnJ said: There is not a self adjustment lever in Toyota handbrakes, if discs with drum handbrake. Click to expand...

jasonfjc said: that sucks. Click to expand...

FinnJ said: I like it, it's simplier and more reliable. Hand brake shoes don't wear almost at all, so the need for adjustment is minimal. Click to expand...

Im on the last click to hold me in place :jester: I'm gonna do this today along with 5 tire rotation :cheers: Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App  

Smalldog said: Im on the last click to hold me in place :jester: I'm gonna do this today along with 5 tire rotation :cheers: Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App Click to expand...

jimmiee said: This thread probably should be corrected or deleted. If someone just reads the first page they may be inclined to adjust the handbrake at the handle which is the WRONG WAY to do it, as mentioned before in this thread. If you adjust the cable at the handle it will make the cable too short at the wheel. This will prevent new shoes from fitting and may also inhibit the cable from being released when someone tries to work on the axle and needs to release the cable. Click to expand...

This really isn't that tough. The hard part is finding that little, itty-bitty wheel through that little, itty-bitty hole.:lol: I set mine on jack stands so I could do both wheels at the same time and get the handle to grab where I wanted. :cheers:  

I wouldn't delete the thread,too much good info for noobs (not to mechanically inclined) like me. A photo or two would be nice to show new folks where this elusive hole is. TIA  

Swingshiftworker

Swingshiftworker said: What shoes? I've got disc brakes all around on my 2007 FJ. Click to expand...

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