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5 Best Malta Wineries to Visit for Wine Tasting in 2024

Malta (and the island of Gozo) are home to several wineries producing world-class wines that are really only just beginning to gain international acclaim. In this travel guide, we’ll take you through 5 of our favorite Malta wineries that make for ideal day trip visits, perfect for wine lovers, adventurers and history buffs. Plus, you’ll have a chance to explore some of Malta’s best viewpoints and the oldest-known megalithic temples in the world.

The Maltese wine industry, evolving rapidly in recent years, offers a distinctive blend of traditional and innovative winemaking practices. The country of Malta, strategically positioned between Sicily and North Africa in the Mediterranean, is comprised of the main island of Malta and the picturesque island of Gozo. Both Maltese islands are rapidly growing in recognition not just for the wine tourism experiences offered, but also for the quality of the wines being produced and the passion of the winemakers behind them. The warm climate, influenced by both Europe and Africa, along with the calcareous soil rich in calcium carbonate, provides an ideal environment for grape cultivation, producing a variety of grapes that result in delicious wines.

As further articulated by Josef Bonello, Brand Ambassador for Wines of Malta and Gozo, “The islands of Malta and Gozo have a wine story that stretches for at least 3000 years. The archipelago, rising in the heart of the Mediterranean Sea, have experienced a very long list of occupiers throughout its history, all of whom left a mark on the development of wine, most of which was challenging. The resilience of its people is reflected in the healthy state of its wines today, hosting a dozen thriving wineries producing a very extensive portfolio reflecting its influences over time, albeit limited in volume, with its own Gellewza and Girgentina varieties growing alongside all noble varieties and others thriving in their ideal Mediterranean climatic profile.”

Malta’s winemaking renaissance is deeply rooted in its indigenous grape varieties such as Girgentina and Ġellewża, which, when combined with international favorites like Chardonnay, Vermentino, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and Sauvignon Blanc, create an impressive range of wines. These include robust reds, vibrant rosés, and crisp whites. Despite its modest size, Malta’s wine industry is characterized by a dedication to quality and innovation, allowing local vintners to gain recognition on a global scale.

Giovanni Lauricella, Managing Partner at Lifeblood Capital, eloquently captures the essence of Malta’s unique wine culture while venturing out during the Medtech Malta conference in October: “Ġellewża and Girgentina? You have not heard these names before? Neither did I. Malta. Do you even know where it is on the map without Googling it? There you have it. Another enigma in the ever expanding world of wine connoisseurship that is worth finding out for yourself by exploring this historically rich, juxtaposed Euro-Arab cultured, island country. This tax haven nation has some families invested into making warm climate juice that can hold up against the marquee wines that we all know from top producers. It is a travel stop worth conquering.”

As Malta continues to carve out its niche in the wine world, the opportunity to explore its offerings are increasingly becoming an enticing prospect for connoisseurs and travelers alike.

In This Guide

Meridiana Wine Estate

• Emmanuel Delicata Winemaker

Ta’ Mena Estate

Marsovin cellars, ta’ betta wine estates.

• Visit Ancient Megalithic Temples & the Dingli Cliffs

RECOMMENDED: Want to get the guidance of a local and expert to have an optimal wine experience on Malta? Book a guided wine tour with A4 Malta . This small-group day trip, limited to eight people for a more intimate experience, offers the perfect blend of relaxation and discovery. You’ll be chauffeured to Malta’s iconic sights, including the breathtaking Dingli Cliffs and the historic city of Mdina, where you can explore at your leisure. The highlight is a visit to the Meridiana Wine Estate, where you’ll participate in wine tastings which include four distinct wine varietals, accompanied by a delicious food platter. For added convenience, opt for a hotel pickup service to start your day effortlessly.

Meridiana Wine Estate, ATD 4000, Malta

+356 2141 3550

Our recent visit to Meridiana was fantastic. We were warmly greeted by the Estate Manager, Karl Chetcuti, who explained in detail the special history of this key winery on Malta. Now one of Malta’s main wineries, Meridiana Wine Estate’s journey commenced in 1985, sparked by a discussion between its founder, Mark Miceli-Farrugia, and Bordeaux’s celebrated oenologist Denis Dubourdieu, who was honored as Decanter Magazine’s Man of the Year in 2016. Dubourdieu convinced Mark of Malta’s potential for producing superior wines, leading to the birth of Meridiana in April 1987, guided by the expertise of oenologist Roger Aquilina. With a steadfast commitment to crafting “World-Class Wines of Maltese Character,” Meridiana focuses on creating wines that reflect the unique qualities of Maltese terroir. The estate’s name and sundial logo draw inspiration from Malta’s Southern European position.

Some of the food and wines we tried while visiting Meridiana. Images courtesy Greig Santos-Buch .

The year 1989 marked a turning point for Meridiana with the acquisition of a 19-hectare (47-acre) plot in Ta’ Qali, at the heart of Malta’s agricultural region. This land, reclaimed from what was once a World War II airfield, offers a picturesque setting beneath Mdina, the famed ancient, fortified city in Malta. In 1992, Mark’s collaboration with Marchese Piero Antinori, a scion of the Antinori winemaking dynasty dating back to 1385, helped navigate the initial skepticism of local financial institutions. Antinori’s extensive experience, spanning Italy, Eastern Europe, and the New World, has significantly contributed to Meridiana’s growth.

The vineyard was planted in 1994 and 1995 with varietals like Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah, and a charming winery made of local, pale limestone was established in 1996.

Meridiana’s inaugural harvests in 1995 (red wines) and 1996 (white wines) were met with overwhelming demand, selling out swiftly. Despite increasing vine yields annually, the domestic demand for Meridiana’s wines often surpasses supply, selling out before new vintages are released. The estate’s current selection includes ten labels – including four white wines, a rosé, and five reds – with an annual production of approximately 140,000 bottles. While primarily catering to the local market, Meridiana also exports limited quantities to niche markets in Japan, France, Switzerland, Denmark, Belgium, and to private clients in Germany, Austria, Singapore, Hong Kong, Latvia, the United Kingdom, Sweden, and the United States.

Winetravelers set on visiting Meridiana for a wine experience can explore the fermentation hall and subterranean cellar, housed in a traditional Maltese farmhouse. The typical tour culminates with a wine tasting session on the estate’s expansive terraces, offering panoramic views of the vineyards.

Delicata Winery

Newcastle, Raħal Ġdid PLA 2143, Malta

+356 2182 5199

The Delicata family’s dedication to Maltese winemaking is a story of passion, resilience, and a deep-rooted commitment to their craft, spanning across four generations. The story of this winery began over a century ago with Eduardo Delicata, a general practitioner with a fervent passion for winemaking. Since its inception in 1907, Delicata has remained under the meticulous stewardship of the Delicata family, positioning itself as one of Malta’s leading family wineries, racking up over 100 international awards.

Enjoying Delicata Winery’s Ġellewża-based red wine on the Dingli Cliffs. Images courtesy Greig Santos-Buch .

Winemaking in Malta, the smallest wine-producing nation globally, has navigated a complex and evolving path. Delicata Winery has confidently faced these challenges, constantly planning and investing in the future. It’s in the last two decades that Maltese winemaking has experienced a renaissance, and Delicata has been at the vanguard of this transformation.

In recent years, Delicata has embraced a commitment to contemporary winemaking techniques. Their wines embody what today’s wine enthusiasts seek: fruit-forward, fresh, and consistent quality, crafted in accordance with the island’s appellation system established in 2007. Delicata’s portfolio has earned international accolades including prestigious medals from Bordeaux, Burgundy, and London, showcasing their mastery in blending modern technology with their rich winemaking experience.

The winery’s current era is marked by the addition of fourth-generation winemakers – Mario, Michael, and Matthew – who join their father, George Delicata, in steering the winery’s future. Together, they aim to perpetuate the legacy of producing distinguished Maltese heritage wines. Delicata’s success is also grounded in their approach to stakeholder engagement and customer feedback, both locally in Malta and Gozo, and internationally. This has led to continuous improvements in both vineyard and cellar practices.

Delicata Winery in Valletta’s Grand Harbour offers seated wine tasting sessions in their Delicata Wine Tasting Vault. Each session, conducted in English, lasts about 60 to 90 minutes and costs €25.00 per person, including VAT. You’ll be able to taste five wines, accompanied by fresh Maltese bread and olive oil. These events are designed for small groups, with a limit of 18 people per session, and require advance booking with no door sales. Contact [email protected] to arrange your visit.

Rabat Road Xaghra, XRA 9010, Malta

+356 2156 3097

On the island of Gozo, Ta’ Mena Estate is a hidden gem, offering not just wine experiences but also a glimpse into the local food culture. The estate, surrounded by hectares of vineyards, olive groves, and the traditional Maltese food, offers a unique wine tour experience, highlighting their family-run business’s history and traditions. The tour includes a visit to their winery and production facilities, where you can learn about and witness winemaking in action, olive pressing, and the creation of traditional artisanal foods. You’ll have the opportunity to taste various wines from the boutique winery, with the option to purchase them at the onsite store. These tastings are complemented by a delightful Gozitan platter featuring local specialties like sweet sundried tomato paste, olives, Gozo peppered cheeselets, smoked sausages, and seasonal delicacies.

Currently, tours are conducted at the winery located on Industry Street, Xewkija, Gozo, due to ongoing renovations at the Estate on Rabat Road, Marsalforn, Gozo. Advance booking is essential and can be done via email at [email protected] . Regular tours are scheduled for Saturdays and last approximately two hours, with additional mid-week tours available upon request. While individual or smaller groups may be merged with others, the total number of participants per tour is kept to a maximum of 10 for an intimate experience. The winery also accommodates specific dietary requirements or allergies if notified beforehand. The current cost at time of publication for this experience is €30 per person, inclusive of VAT.

Renfrew, Raħal Ġdid, Malta

+356 7923 1919

Established over a century ago by Chevalier Anthony Cassar, Marsovin has evolved from a small wine producer to a renowned name in both local and international wine circles. Today, the winery is managed by the founder’s great-grandson, Jeremy Cassar, ensuring the continuity of family tradition in producing premium wines.

Visitors to Marsovin Cellars can explore the historic wine cellars situated in a building dating back to the Order of the Knights of Saint John, where over 220 oak barrels are used for ageing premium red wines. They also produce fantastic rosé sparkling wine made in the Traditional Method from a cuvée of predominantly indigenous Ġellewża and selected Chardonnay.

The winery owns more than 199 tumuli of land across five private estates in Malta and Gozo, dedicated to cultivating high-quality, single-estate wines. The range includes various wine types such as red, white, rosé, sparkling, and sweet wines, with grape varieties like Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. Marsovin is not only celebrated for its wines but also its commitment to organic wine production.

The Marsovin Experience, priced at €60.00 per person, lasts approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes and includes a tasting of 4-6 wines. The tour offers an in-depth look at Maltese winemaking culture and practices. Advanced bookings are necessary, and the winery accommodates visitors from Monday to Friday between 11:00 AM and 14:30 PM.

Taż-Żiri off Triq Blat il-Qamar Girgenti l/o, Is-Siġġiewi, Malta

+356 7977 4477

Ta’ Betta Wine Estates, situated in Siġġiewi, Malta, is a notable name in the Maltese wine industry. Established by Juanito and Astrid Camilleri, the estate’s journey began with a passion for wine, nurtured during their time at the University of Cambridge. This passion materialized into a boutique winery, embracing both the art and science of winemaking.

The estate is spread across four hectares of terraced land, where meticulous care is given to cultivating a variety of grapes. The vineyards are planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, and Chardonnay. Ta’ Betta’s approach to winemaking is guided by the expertise of renowned Sicilian winemaker Vincenzo Melia, ensuring that each wine is a premium product. This approach includes innovative techniques such as using egg-shaped containers for fermenting red grapes and a gentle spa room for treating white grapes, aimed at producing the highest quality Chardonnay.

Each wine at Ta’ Betta is crafted with a distinctive personality, reflected in their unique names, inspired by Knight Grandmasters of the Order of St. John. For instance, the Philippe Villiers blend, named after the French Grandmaster who brought the Order to Malta, is a robust combination of Syrah and Cabernet Franc. The estate also produces an opulent Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon blend named Antonio Manoel and an oak-fermented Chardonnay named Jean Parisot, among others.

The estate is not generally open to the public, but it offers private tastings and appreciation events by appointment for Ta’ Betta Wine Club members and interested visitors. The tastings take place in a small and exclusive room overlooking the Maltese countryside, providing stunning views and an intimate atmosphere.

These wineries, together with others on the Maltese archipelago, offer a range of wine experiences, from private tastings and vineyard tours to immersive encounters with the local wine and food culture. The Malta Tourism Authority provides additional resources for those interested in exploring the wines of Malta, including more information on vineyard tours and local grape varieties.

Blending Wine Tasting with Historical Tourism on Malta

@winetraveler On our recent trip to #Malta 🇲🇹, we spent a day #hiking the coast to explore the oldest known megalithic temples in the world, and stumbled on the cart tracks ancient people used to bring the massive stones to these structures. #traveltiktok #bucketlist #travel #history #archeology #fyp #xyc #winetravelers #winetraveler ♬ original sound – Winetraveler

Malta is home to some of the world’s most ancient archaeological sites, making it an ideal destination for blending wine tasting with historical tourism. After a day of enjoying the island’s delightful wines, we suggest visiting the renowned megalithic temples of Ħaġar Qim and Mnajdra, UNESCO World Heritage Sites. On approach to the temples, attempt to remove your eyes from the stunning coastal views for a few minutes and look at the limestone on the ground as you hike closer. If you look closely, you’ll notice tracks cut deeply into the rocks, likely made by ancient carts over 8,000 years ago which were used to drag the massive stones to build the temples (see TikTok video above).

RECOMMENDED: For deeper insight into the remarkable history of these temples and the island, book a prehistoric temples and highlights of the south full day tour with licensed local guides and experts Robert Arrigo & Sons. The tour includes hotel pick up and drop off.

Finish your day by hiking with a couple bottles of wine to the stunning Dingli Cliffs in Malta. Images courtesy Greig Santos-Buch .

After witnessing these truly impressive sites, hike to the Dingli Cliffs. These majestic cliffs offer awe-inspiring views of the Mediterranean, creating the perfect setting to relax and enjoy the sunset. Don’t forget to bring along a couple of bottles of local wine (and glasses), allowing you to enjoy the flavors of the island amidst its stunning natural beauty.

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How to do a Bordeaux wine tour by public transport: Visit vineyards with no need for a designated driver

T he day took a bit of a wobble at Margaux. Not, you understand, because I’d been sampling some of Bordeaux ’s top-quality tipples after an excellent lunch accompanied by more wine . It was because Margaux village's station was deserted out of season, with train information displayed on screens, and no clue which of the two platforms was which. Trains making the 45-minute journey to Bordeaux city seemed to run at different times from both platforms.

I had to chance it; I doubted I’d have time to cross the open tracks once the train arrived. Luckily, I guessed correctly and chugged on with my discovery of Bordeaux by public transport .

Most people don’t realise the extent of France ’s wine producing region. It would take you two and a half hours to drive the 99 miles from its northernmost to southernmost extremities. No wonder those taking a vineyard tour generally drive or go on group trips. There is, however, another way – to visit the vineyards by trains, bus and tram. And aside from the slight hiccup I experienced at Margaux, I found it surprisingly easy.

One vineyard, Chateau Les Carmes Haut-Brion, is even within the sprawling city’s limits and can be reached by Bordeaux’s extensive tram network. What’s more, it’s designed by Philippe Starck, resembling the bow of a boat from the outside, while within the concrete wine vats are painted in different designs. (Tour with tasting costs €55).

It’s in complete contrast to the historic Chateau Pape Clement, a 25-minute bus journey away, or a 40-minute bus and train trip from the city centre. Vines were originally planted here in the 13th century by Bertrand de Got, who became Pope Clement V. Now, the grand cru classe wines lie maturing in an enormous barrel-filled room lit by chandeliers.

Read more on taking a wine road trip through Italy’s Piedmont region

You can make your own version in the 19th-century chateau in a process reminiscent of a school chemistry lesson, as you experiment with different ratios of merlot to cab sav. Once I had my winning formula, I bottled it, added a cork and foil and embellished the label: Chateau Jane. (Tour with tasting costs €20, a winemaker course costs €99).

Another day, another vineyard or three, this time in the Medoc with its famous Margaux appellation. The village of Margaux isn’t the most appealing, but you’re there for the vino, and that doesn’t disappoint. I started with the biodynamic wine at Chateau Ferriere, made to beyond-organic principles and according to the cycle of the moon; they also make biodynamic tea. (Tour and tasting costs €25).

It’s just a short walk from here to Marquis de Terme, which has an elegantly modern restaurant where I polished off a superb lunch accompanied by their delicious grand cru classe. The tour here is particularly interesting because they have an eye on the future as well as the past and are constantly innovating.

The expansive cellar not only holds rows of barrels in which to age the wine, but also other containers to achieve different finishes – pearl-shaped barrels, egg-shaped concrete vats, pottery amphora and a large wooden barrel connected by wifi to record changes in temperature, pressure and oxygen. I can confirm that the finished product is particularly delicious; I finished off my tasting with rum made in Martinique from the chateau’s barrels. (Tour and three tastings costs €35).

It was at this point that my little incident at the station nearly jeopardised the 20-minute train ride followed by a 20-minute walk to Chateau Saint-Ahon. Reminiscent of buildings in Paris’s Place de Vosges, this small property is extremely family friendly, with walks through the vines interspersed by informative panels. Its wines are a decent price, with the eponymous brand coming in at €14, which you can drink accompanied by a picnic of produce bought in the shop. (Tour and tasting costs €12). Better still, because it’s in Bordeaux metropolis, once back at the station, you can take a tram back to the sprawling city.

Where you stay here depends on whether you want to be near the station in the south (where I picked) or a tram ride from it near the beautiful Place de la Bourse in the centre, with its many restaurants.

Read more on how to do a sustainable wine tour of Chile

Wherever you choose, you shouldn’t go to Bordeaux without seeing the medieval hilltop village of Saint-Emilion, and enjoying some of its vintages. Happily, it’s just a 34-minute train journey away, followed by a 20-minute walk along a vine-fringed road (or an hour-long bus ride without the walk in season). The eponymous eighth-century saint lived in a cave here, which you can still visit along with the catacombs and spectacular monolithic church; Emilion’s presence drew religious communities who were adept at wine making.

They included the monks at the Couvent des Jacobins, whose atmospheric cellars are reached through a small wooden Harry-Potter style door beneath the stairs. Private visits give you time to chill out in the pretty gardens, while tastings of their organic wines are accompanied by cheese, chocolate or St-Emilion’s famous macaroons. (Tour and tasting costs €22).

It's much more touristy up the road at Cloitre de Cordeliers, where you can enjoy a restaurant picnic in the ruins of the cloister and take a mad tuk-tuk tour around the town and through some of the miles of underground tunnels carved out under Saint-Emilion by quarrying. (Tuk-tuk and tasting costs €25.) The ones here are used to store sparkling wine rather than Bordeaux red, but just a five-minute walk away, Chateau Villemaurine uses some of its own network of tunnels to mature its superb grand cru classe. Tours by torchlight head into the silence of the cellars, where bats hang from the ceiling and vine roots work their way through the overhead rock. It would be hard to find a more evocative place to end my trip. (Tour and tasting costs €20).

Travel essentials

How to get there.

Bordeaux is just two hours from Paris by train. Returns from London St Pancras cost from £235 ( thetrainline.com ).

Where to stay

The Golden Tulip is a modern hotel just minutes from the station with B&B doubles from £90.

More information: Bordeaux-tourism.co.uk , gironde-tourisme.com

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A Wine Expert's Guide to Napa Valley

For more than two decades, Travel + Leisure wine expert Ray Isle has been visiting Napa to uncover the best of the region. Here's his short list.

The City of Napa

• Yountville and the Lower Valley
• St. Helena and the Upper Valley

The Unmissable Outskirts

Soraya Matos

What is this place, really? Thirty miles north to south, about five miles across at its widest point, it’s definitely the most famous wine region in the United States, and one of the most famous in the world. It’s jammed full of wineries: 475 at last count. And it’s often jammed full of people visiting those wineries — some 3 million a year. In fact, it’s one of the most popular tourist attractions in California .

Napa Valley makes some of the greatest Cabernets in the world, definitely. It abounds in excellent restaurants, wine shops, and hotels. Without a doubt, it’s a delightful place to visit. The trick is doing it in a way that won’t make you feel like you’re tourist number 3,000,001.

I’ve been visiting and writing about Napa Valley for more than two decades, and if there’s one piece of advice I’d offer to someone headed there now, it’s to plan well in advance. More and more wineries require reservations for tastings, and the best restaurants and hotels book up weeks — often months — in advance. The other suggestion I’d make is to simplify. Plan to visit four wineries per day at the very most; three or even two probably makes more sense. Instead of a sit-down lunch, opt for a wine tasting that includes food pairings — something more and more wineries now offer — and save the blowout meals for dinner.

It can also help to break the valley into sections, as I have below. Stretches of Highway 29, in particular, can be a traffic nightmare; the less time spent driving back and forth, the better. Pick one day to explore the lower part of the valley, around Yountville; another for the area around St. Helena and up to Calistoga; another to spin off to some of the mountain appellations. And don’t overlook the city of Napa itself, which in the past decade or so has gone from drab to exciting.

Finally, when planning those winery visits, lean toward variety. Balance classics with upstarts. For every big place, visit a smaller one; from an estate whose wines you know and love, head to a place with wines you’ve never tasted before. The currency of the kingdom is definitely Cabernet, but there’s far more to try than most people realize. 

When I first started going to Napa Valley, the city itself was a place you zoomed through on your way to the wineries. There used to be a traffic signal where Highway 29 met Trancas Boulevard — now the highway swoops right under the intersection — and you’d often hit a stoplight. That gave you time to consider whether you needed any of the things the city had to offer back then: a bag of mulch, for instance, or windshield-wiper fluid.

Instead of a sit-down lunch, opt for a wine tasting that includes food pairings — something more and more wineries now offer — and save the blowout meals for dinner.

That’s changed — big time. It probably started with the opening of Oxbow Public Market, at the end of 2007, which brought restaurants, shops, and buzz to downtown. Napa started to feel like somewhere you might actually want to linger. The 2017 opening of the stylish Archer Hotel was another pivotal moment. Today, Oxbow is still going strong. Its latest addition is Moro Napa , a delectable Moroccan street-food joint from San Francisco star chef Mourad Lahlou, who’s made his first venture into wine country.

Another big development has been the proliferation of tasting rooms, many affiliated with wineries up-valley. Check out Arch & Tower , the Robert Mondavi Winery’s home-away-from-home while the original Oakville tasting room is under renovation, particularly at its “Golden Hour” tasting from 4 to 7 p.m. At the Mayacamas Vineyards tasting room on First Street, you can sample their ultra-classic Cabernets without negotiating the lengthy, winding, and somewhat spine-jarring road up to the winery on Mount Veeder.

The most alluring new spot for me is the Gentleman Farmer Bungalow . Joey Wołosz and Jeff Durham, partners in business and in life, make very good wine, but more than that they have a sharp curatorial eye: their 1926 Craftsman bungalow on the edge of downtown feels like an expression of everything you wish wine country would be. Call it elegant cheekiness, or cheeky elegance — the place has antique light fixtures but also a stack of vintage Playboy s in the bathroom. The kitchen is beautiful, all butcher-block and blue tile, and also functional. That’s the point. Wołosz is a terrific cook, and starting the day with the bungalow’s wine breakfast — a tasting of current releases, but also gougères straight from the oven, house-smoked pancetta, individual soufflés, and more — is not to be missed.

Recently opened Chispa is another standout. Aubrey Bailey and Taylor Kindred already run Cadet Wine & Beer Bar, one of the best in town, and in 2023 they opened this tequila-centric bar and restaurant. Why tequila? Well, even winemakers sometimes get tired of wine — hence the presence of a whole lot of industry folks. There are also excellent cocktails and inspired cooking from chef Mac de Chavez, who does an exceptional tequila-marinated hanger steak with chimichurri and a must-order kung pao octopus.

Another newcomer is the bright, Mediterranean-themed Scala Osteria . Owner Giovanni Scala is also the force behind local fave Bistro Don Giovanni , north of town. At Scala he heads to the southern Italian coast, channeled through fresh California seafood. It’s a fine place to spend an evening after a day of wine tasting. My suggestion? Order the pasta with calamari, spicy sausage, and white beans, along with some cioppino and a glass of Massican’s crisp Annia white.

Yountville and the Lower Valley

The town of Yountville, nine miles north of Napa, is the anchor point for the Oak Knoll, Oakville, Stags Leap, and Yountville appellations. It’s hard to make the case that there’s a lot of town in Yountville (restaurants, tasting rooms, hotels, and wine stores seem to outnumber actual homes) but that doesn’t mean the place isn’t charming.

Restaurant-wise, the big name is, of course, the French Laundry . It’s still stellar, but it books up months in advance — and the sticker price doesn’t include wine, tax, or tip. Ouch. If that figure gives you pause, as it does me, I suggest heading to Ciccio . Chef Christopher Kostow and his wife, Martina, took the helm at this casual, effortlessly excellent Italian bistro in 2023, and it’s been packed ever since. Kostow found fame at the Michelin three-starred Restaurant at Meadowood, which was sadly destroyed, along with a good portion of the Meadowood resort, in the 2020 Glass Fire. At Ciccio, he brings his skills to bear on dishes like gnudi with burnt peppercorns and Pennyroyal Farm cheese; super-crisp pizzas, like one with potato, leek confit, fontina, and caper salsa verde ; and a pork Milanese that will make you wonder why the Italians bothered with veal in the first place.

There are many classic wineries to visit here, but one great possibility is Inglenook , which has a long and complicated history. Founded in 1879, it sank during Prohibition, bounced back to produce some of Napa Valley’s most legendary Cabernets in the 1940s and 50s under owner John Daniel Jr., then was flipped from one corporate owner to another until the brand found itself languishing in the jug-wine realm. Enter Francis Ford Coppola, who bought the property in 1975 (and got the name of the brand back in 2011). Now wines such as the flagship red, Inglenook Rubicon, are once again top-notch. The château’s library-like Athenaeum room is a lovely place to taste them.

The newish kid on the block, south of Yountville in the Oak Knoll appellation, is Ashes & Diamonds Winery . People claim that Millennials and Gen Zers aren’t interested in wine; the crowd here clearly didn’t get that message. The wines themselves point toward a less ripe, more restrained vision of Napa Valley wine — call it elegance over power — that’s echoed in the look of the winery and tasting room. The brainchild of owner Kashy Khaledi, it is all of one aesthetic piece: from the white interior, which leans Midcentury Modern, to the wine labels to, in some ways, the wine inside the bottles — cool and streamlined. And, even better, it’s fun.

The A&D wines are made by several top winemakers, among them Steve Matthiasson, who’s also one of California’s most sought-after vineyard consultants. He and his wife, Jill Klein Matthiasson, own Matthiasson Winery , one of my favorite places to visit in the valley, partly because it’s as unpretentious and honest as they are. Their organically farmed Phoenix Vineyard produces a complex and thrillingly aromatic Cabernet from unusual-for-Napa shale soils. Tastings are outdoors at a couple of big wooden tables on the concrete crush pad, right in front of tanks and barrels. There are no pseudo-Italian bell towers, no crystal chandeliers in subterranean cellars, no weird 10-foot-high eyeballs staring at you as you drive in (I’m looking at you, Raymond Vineyards). Just good people and good wine.

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With very few grandfathered-in exceptions, the county of Napa does not allow wineries to have restaurants. However, the law does allow food to be served with wine if it is part of a tasting. Hence the rise of what I call the “it isn’t really a meal but it might as well be” tasting. Some of these, I’ve found, are truly superb. One of the best is at B Cellars Vineyards & Winery , where chef Derick Kuntz creates tasting menus of intricate small bites to go with wines: a shrimp tostada with avocado purée, pickled red onion, and cilantro (with a bright 2021 rosé) or fried ravioli, arugula pesto, and a sweet-and-sour tomato gastrique (with the powerful 2019 Blend 24). You’ll never have those exact pairings, though, because Kuntz changes the entire menu every three to five weeks and never repeats a dish. Is it lunch? Oh, definitely not. Nope. No lunch here. But you won’t walk away hungry.

One important note: many of the absolute superstar wineries don’t accept visitors. One workaround is K. Laz Wine Collection , right in the heart of Yountville. Places like Harlan Estate and Screaming Eagle may bar the doors — but not to industry insider Kerrin Laz, whose connections are unbeatable. If you’re hunting for the hardest of the hard to find — think Abreu, Colgin, Futo, Maybach, Realm, and so on — she’s your woman. Even better, her store offers tastings, at a range of prices. Essentially, you can “visit” four or five cult Cabernet producers in one stop, buy a few bottles, and still have time left over for lunch. Just don’t make the rookie mistake of leaving the $400 Cabernet you just picked up in your trunk during the summer.

St. Helena and the Upper Valley

When Arkansas billionaire Gaylon Lawrence Jr. purchased the historic Heitz Cellar winery in 2018, one of the things it came with was an 800-acre parcel hidden away on Howell Mountain. Long a grape source for Heitz wines, Ink Grade is now its own biodynamic estate. The hitch? No winery, no tasting room, and a location far from the valley floor. The result? Senses by Ink Grade , an “immersive wine tasting experience” in St. Helena. It combines a guided tasting with a 360-degree video installation that takes you through the seasons in the vineyard, harvest work, and the wine-making process. Does Senses substitute for setting foot in an actual vineyard? No. But the futuristic approach does give a remarkable overview of how the vineyard looks through the course of a year — and it admirably demonstrates the hard manual labor that goes into harvesting grapes and making wine.

Another vision of the future of Napa Valley is on view at Newfound Wines — at least, the future in terms of how talented young winemakers can get a foothold in a valley known for wineries owned by the 1 percent. Married couple Audra Chapman and Matt Naumann make small amounts of a lot of different wines, with fruit from vineyards in Napa Valley, Sonoma County, and beyond. They don’t own a winery; the Newfound tasting room is in a small house on a leafy side street in St. Helena. And since there’s no staff, Chapman or Naumann host all the tastings. Low overhead, in other words — and also terrific wines, particularly those made from Grenache, the couple’s focus. Why Grenache in the midst of Cabernet country? “Because of its untapped potential for greatness in California’s Mediterranean climate,” Chapman said. “And because the way our Grenache comes across to me is pure California sunshine in a glass.”

Maybe it’s the past that’s actually the future, as at Spottswoode Estate Vineyard & Winery . Though its history stretches back to the 1800s, Spottswoode was among the first wineries in Napa Valley to certify its vineyards as organic, in 1985; today, under Beth Weber Novak’s leadership, it’s also at the forefront of climate-change awareness in the wine world. “Being good stewards of our land, people, and planet has been an important part of who we are since the start,” said Novak, who’s on the board of the nonprofit International Wineries for Climate Change. “We are always looking for new ways to champion the environment and better our communities, whether it’s adopting new regenerative agricultural practices or encouraging other winegrowers to embrace organic farming. It’s not just a Napa Valley issue; it’s a planetary issue.” The Spottswoode Estate Cabernet is a Napa Valley benchmark, balancing power and grace, and is not to be missed.

There’s also considerable innovation on the food front. The best meal I’ve had in several years in this part of the world was at Auro , at the Four Seasons Resort & Residences Napa Valley , where chef Rogelio Garcia seems to be racking up accolades faster than he can count them. Garcia’s seven-course tasting menu leans heavily on local produce, with Japanese and Mexican accents. This is high-wire cooking, impeccably executed in dishes like dry-aged Japanese yellowtail with avocado and a mandarin aguachile . The wine list is excellent and also lengthy; thankfully, sommelier Derek Stevenson is both easygoing and deeply knowledgeable.

A valley isn’t much of a valley unless it has mountains around it, and that certainly goes for Napa. The Mayacamas rise in the west, home to the Diamond Mountain District, Mount Veeder, and Spring Mountain District appellations; to the east are the Vaca Mountains, with Atlas Peak, Howell Mountain, and Pritchard Hill, which is not technically an appellation, though it might as well be.

The most recently designated American Viticultural Area, or AVA, in the valley is Coombsville, which was approved back in 2011. Though it has plenty of vineyards, there aren’t a lot of wineries, a fact that makes Favia Erickson Winegrowers all the more special. It’s owned by superstar wine-making consultant Andy Erickson — he’s worked at Dalla Valle, Ovid, Screaming Eagle, and many more — and equally renowned vineyard consultant Annie Favia. They make their own stuff in a restored stone building that dates back to 1886. Their Cerro Sur red, mostly Cabernet Franc, is regularly one of my favorites: vividly aromatic, polished, and even better after a few years in a cellar.

To cap off a Napa trip, make a visit to Smith-Madrone , hidden away above St. Helena on Spring Mountain Road. If there were a casting call for “old man of the mountain,” Stu Smith — bearded, rugged, and emphatically direct — would probably win the part. (His winemaker brother, Charles, wouldn’t be far behind.) To me, visiting Smith-Madrone is like stepping back into the Napa Valley that was.

“When I bought this land in 1970,” Stu said, “it was $350 an acre. Today, normal people like me and Charlie, we could never afford this place. At the time the only thing here was the road down. No electricity, no water, no nothing.” There’s electricity now, and water, but the wine is still made in an old wooden barn, and tastings take place right outside at a table. Zero pretension.

The Smiths are among the few people who still make Riesling in Napa Valley — and it’s excellent — but their Cabernet is the star. The estate bottling is elegant, complex, and classically styled; the brothers’ Cook’s Flat Reserve is even better. “I describe this wine as us trying to make something that competes head-to-head with the best Bordeaux,” Stu said. “They have a five-hundred-year head start — but you have to start somewhere.”  

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